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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Author

New Arapiles Select Guide


Tel

24-Feb-2007
7:03:35 AM

Simey, here is a few of the ones I have done, the names are straight from the guide book, hope it helps some.....

Rabbit Boulder, Eye of the bunny, V1
Swing wing boulder, # 2 high traverse, V0
Crankshaft boulder, Waterboys*, V1
Crankshaft Boulder, # 3 Slabby crack on face behind*, V0
Superman Boulder( road face), Superman 1* , V1
Everyfin, Everyfin, Like That & Everyfin boulder, Our Doreen*, V0
Monkey Puzzle boulder(road face), # 7 high traverse*, V0
Golden streak boulder, #10 the usual descent, V0-
Golden streak boulder, # 12 Classic High arete, V0+
Caving Boulder, Caving*, V1
Finlagon Boulder, # 3 beautiful climbing on good holds, V0+

simey

24-Feb-2007
8:41:41 AM

Thanks Tel,
That's a really good starting list for the easier problems and gives me some idea of finding consistency within those grades.

I've gotta say it still irks me to see easier bouldering grades having to use V0-, V0 and V0+ divisions (rather than having their own grades).


Chuck Norris

24-Feb-2007
9:54:12 AM

simon, a serious suggestion...why don’t you get a list of the problems you are to publish, apply
MrKyles rule of thumb to all the grades, override grades where you have more info (as per suggestions
above) and stick them on the forum (or if the list is too long email it to anyone who asks). You could
even print them out and stick it in the loo at the piles. All this with a note with words to the effect
“these are the grades that will be published unless you get involved”

Furthermore if you are still unhappy with some of the grading when it comes time to publish, you could
put a short note as to the method by which the grades were compiled and invite more feedback.

Just a suggestion, but I do think it would be a shame if you put something out that didn’t have at least
a stab at V grades

(sorry i cant offer specific feedback on problems but then I still use the carrigan guide and anything i
can do is B0)

Dave J

24-Feb-2007
9:59:38 AM

>AAHC has one trickier move near the start which is pretty easy with the
>right foot beta - I thought V6 was being generous...

So what are you suposed to do with your right foot then to make it easier?

Simey,
I dont think the classics really need grades,the problems seemed to work well enough when they just
had names....If you are going to grade them though don't use the system from your original guide. the
five grades in that was the bouldering grade equivalent of grading routes "1-19" and then "20+" (usefull
if you were visiting arapiles in 1965 but thats about it).

Are you just going to put the same boulders in or is it a more extensive bouldering section?


muki

24-Feb-2007
10:30:03 AM

Islamabad?

dalai

24-Feb-2007
12:08:37 PM

On 24/02/2007 Dave J wrote:
>>AAHC has one trickier move near the start which is pretty easy with the
>>right foot beta - I thought V6 was being generous...
>
>So what are you suposed to do with your right foot then to make it easier?

Right = cunningly sneaky foot beta to make the crux section easier...and from memory I think the crucial foot placement is with the left foot!

simey

24-Feb-2007
2:46:03 PM

On 24/02/2007 Dave J wrote:
>If you are going to grade them though don't use the system from your original guide. the five grades in that was the bouldering grade equivalent of grading routes "1-19" and then "20+" (usefull if you were visiting arapiles in 1965 but thats about it).

Well I wasn't trying to grade the problems, but was simply giving people a rough idea of what difficulty of problems to expect in an area.

And I wouldn't have said the system we used was the equivalent of 1-19, more like 1-25. As for the small proportion of people climbing above that, dick waggling numbers are even less important. Good boulderers can still enjoy easier and moderate problems in an area, whereas climbers of more modest ability can't even pull onto the rock once the bouldering becomes more extreme.

>Are you just going to put the same boulders in or is it a more extensive
>bouldering section?

Probably just the same stuff as before. We might add a couple of things, but we don't want to get carried away given how long this guide is taking to put together.

Roamer

2-Mar-2007
5:21:46 PM

What's the latest on release date?

gfdonc

23-Apr-2007
4:22:36 PM

Just noticed the bagging of Poppies a couple of pages back in this thread. I have done pitch 1 of this route, and the first part of pitch 2 before my leader headed left into Eurydice, and of those bits I reckon it's great and easily worth a star.

The start isn't that bad and isn't totally unprotected either - I got a small cam and a good wire in before the angle eased, and felt fairly happy. The flake is brilliant with a hard move at the start, and the crux (on p1) has good pro and nice moves, although it would be hard to hang around to get more gear in after you've committed. Didn't agree with comments about loose rock, I think there's one bit you could kick off if you were feeling violent but there's no need to haul on anything that feels portable.

Anyway the main reason I'm here is I'm looking for a route description for Shaggy's Route (aka SFIAABB). Anyone got one?

kieranl

23-Apr-2007
5:13:43 PM

On 23/04/2007 gfdonc wrote:
>Anyway the main reason I'm here is I'm looking for a route description
>for Shaggy's Route (aka SFIAABB). Anyone got one?
>
Would you like it with or without the references to killer bees?


Rupert

23-Apr-2007
6:41:04 PM

There was some discussion here on it a looong time in the past: http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=15&MessageID=83

Click on the view messages button to view the whole thread - I can't figure out how to link to the main page. I am no good with this computer stuff anymore.

kieranl

23-Apr-2007
10:07:04 PM

On 23/04/2007 Rupert wrote:
>There was some discussion here on it a looong time in the past:
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=15&MessageID=83&replies=1
>
I think this is the full thread.
With the first pitch there is an obvious belay point at 30m beside a huge block. I think this is where Rupert and I both belayed. This makes the start of pitch two quite runout. Probably better to continue on about 8m to another ledge but, and this is a big but, this brings you close to the cave that spawned the bees that attacked Noddy a few weeks ago.
Until someone checks out what the bees are up to in this area it is wise to avoid this climb. I might have a look at it in a few weeks when the weather is a lot cooler so the bees are less active.


Sabu

23-Apr-2007
10:16:17 PM

sooo, any count downs for the guide yet or do we twiddle our thumbs a little longer?


n00bpwn3r

23-Apr-2007
10:36:06 PM

Is SFIAABB going to be in the new guide? No offence to the family and friends of the deceased, but compaired to other routes on Tiger Wall it's pretty worthless.
There's a reason nobody had bothered to claim it as a first ascent, bit like BP's new route on CGLHS. Really, if they were any good don't you think somebody would have done them by now?


muki

23-Apr-2007
10:44:24 PM

Hey Noob Glad to hear you did my climb on baby Buttress, how did you like the crux?
Or did you even do it at all, I hope your not talking out of your arse again?


n00bpwn3r

23-Apr-2007
10:47:31 PM

In a word :- CONTRIVED


BigMike

23-Apr-2007
11:11:15 PM

On 23/04/2007 n00bpwn3r wrote:
>In a word :- CONTRIVED

oooooOOOOoooh ... them's argy-bargy words.

I anticipate Hiltis at 10 paces...


muki

24-Apr-2007
9:35:28 AM

but the crux is inescapable, therefore I have to asume that I was correct and you have'nt been on yet.
and are once again talking out of your arse, but thats not new is it?


gordoste

24-Apr-2007
9:44:07 AM

anybody with a nick like n00bpwner HAS to be trolling at least 75% of the time...


westie

24-Apr-2007
1:58:56 PM

On 23/04/2007 n00bpwn3r wrote:
>but compaired to other routes on Tiger Wall it's pretty
worthless.

Geez. I just thought you had stong opinions on bolting. You really are a shit-stirrer. There must be hundreds of climbs around the state that don't turn people on. Different strokes for different folks. Doesn't mean if you don't dig it its worthless... try being objective for a change.

There are 145 messages in this topic.