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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 54
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo The Horn Environs (General) Dreamworld [ Horn Guide ] 

Author
Dreamworld - New Route or Variant?
kieranl
14/02/2012
10:39:01 PM
The shots below are from the FA of Dead Heart at Dreamworld a long time ago, particularly showing where the climbing went on the bottom section. The last photo has a line showing roughly where Spaceman Spiff finishes.
I thought I had a shot of Bill on the FA of Spaceman Spiff but can't find one. Possibly the shot I'm remembering was in one of the mags at the time (possibly Australian Rockclimber)
My assessment would be that the new route "The Day After Invasion Day" is a variant of Spaceman Spiff with only 3 or 4 metres of different climbing in the middle. It appears that all bolts are clippable from Spaceman Spiff. Given that, for a few moves it's just a choice of which set of handholds are used.







citationx
14/02/2012
10:41:06 PM
variant
kieranl
14/02/2012
10:49:01 PM
And, for comparison, here is a shot of the "new" route.


widewetandslippery
14/02/2012
10:59:33 PM
So what? Looks like a good route on shit granite (both of them)

stugang
14/02/2012
11:05:54 PM
struggling to see what your point is. Unless you are asking us to form a quorum of those who figure "who cares"

shortman
14/02/2012
11:20:18 PM
Kieran and Patrick are having battles on another thread about these climbs. Thats the point!
One Day Hero
14/02/2012
11:26:08 PM
On 14/02/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>struggling to see what your point is. Unless you are asking us to form
>a quorum of those who figure "who cares"

I'm stuck trying to work out if you're still in character, or if you're having an off night?

shortman
14/02/2012
11:30:29 PM
On 14/02/2012 kieranl wrote:
>And, for comparison, here is a shot of the "new" route.
>
>
>

Is that you and Ben pecheur? I really like that shot.

shortman
14/02/2012
11:33:11 PM
On 14/02/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 14/02/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>>struggling to see what your point is. Unless you are asking us to form
>>a quorum of those who figure "who cares"
>
>I'm stuck trying to work out if you're still in character, or if you're
>having an off night?

He's losin it for sure. More so than usual.
One Day Hero
14/02/2012
11:35:56 PM
Looks to me like a 12m high piece of regulation Buffalo crystal-crumble-crap. If you think this route looks "great", you should pop up to canberra for a visit.

shortman
14/02/2012
11:43:23 PM
Na, I just like the photo. I feel like m9 when i say this.....but......u can see the whole climb, surroundings and most importantly the belayer so that one can understand the story!

:)

stugang
14/02/2012
11:45:53 PM
Highly likely an off night. But I have no idea what KL is trying to accomplish with these randomly sequenced, amateur photos. i really can't work out whether i am meant to sympathize with the white worm in the last photo or whether I should curse its existence.

shortman
14/02/2012
11:52:01 PM
On 14/02/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Looks to me like a 12m high piece of regulation Buffalo crystal-crumble-crap.
>If you think this route looks "great", you should pop up to canberra for
>a visit.

You should read the crag description - classic - literally.

Grade 18, 6 bolts....even i'd manage that.
pecheur
15/02/2012
7:32:47 AM
On 14/02/2012 shortman wrote:
>Kieran and Patrick are having battles on another thread about these climbs.
>Thats the point!

Keiran and I aren't battling (about this anyway).

I have no opinion either way on this one so was just providing fuel to the (his) fire. For all I know I could have been climbing: "The Day the Dead Buffalo Spaceman's Heart Invaded" ...
kp
15/02/2012
8:19:13 AM
White Worm is a classic variant.
kieranl
15/02/2012
9:04:44 AM
On 15/02/2012 pecheur wrote:
>On 14/02/2012 shortman wrote:
>>Kieran and Patrick are having battles on another thread about these climbs.
>>Thats the point!
>
>Keiran and I aren't battling (about this anyway).
>
>I have no opinion either way on this one so was just providing fuel to
>the (his) fire. For all I know I could have been climbing: "The Day the
>Dead Buffalo Spaceman's Heart Invaded" ...
Agreed there's no battle. I was just pretty amazed that someone could squeeze in a new climb between This Is Not Our Land and Spaceman Spiff. The most likely explanation was that people didn't know exactly where the existing trad routes went.
The purpose of the photos is to show where the earlier climbing went in relation to the new bolts.
To me, it looks like it's a retro-bolt of Spaceman Spiff, which was a direct finish to Dead Heart. I quite admired Bill's lead of that route and wouldn't like to see it overshadowed by these later events.
Apologies for the poor quality of the photos - scans of old prints. I leave as an exercise, for those who may find it Useful, the ordering rationale behind them.
rolsen1
15/02/2012
9:44:08 AM
What are the old routes and new route like? Any good?

On 15/02/2012 kieranl wrote:
> I quite admired Bill's lead of that route

Can you elaborate on this? Committing or dangerous? or just a good lead for him?

kieranl
15/02/2012
10:01:07 AM
On 15/02/2012 rolsen1 wrote:
>What are the old routes and new route like? Any good?
>
>On 15/02/2012 kieranl wrote:
>> I quite admired Bill's lead of that route
>
>Can you elaborate on this? Committing or dangerous? or just a good lead
>for him?
>
>
I think the old routes were quite good but not in the same class as TINOL. Of course Dead Heart was made almost immediately redundant by Spaceman Spiff and Buffalo Soldier.
SS was very comitting with poor gear. If you look at all the gear I've got in on Dead Heart, it's all crap. In the last shot of the series I'm just about to get the first really good piece on the pitch.
*post-edit* As I said in the restricted thread, I'm not worried about the retro-bolting - there's so little enjoyable rock at Buffalo that it was a waste that we didn't bolt these in the first place.

nmonteith
15/02/2012
10:57:00 AM
I did Dead Heart years ago and don't remember it being that badly protected. It was a little exciting (spaced) but I certainly didn't think it was overly dangerous. This new route seems a blatant retrobolt. It may climb a more 'direct' line but that is only because you can now clip bolts - the trad version you wandered around between features to find the gear.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15/02/2012
11:00:16 AM
On 14/02/2012 shortman wrote:
>Na, I just like the photo. I feel like m9 when i say this.....but......u
>can see the whole climb, surroundings and most importantly the belayer
>so that one can understand the story!
>
>:)

+1

Hehx3


On 15/02/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>I did Dead Heart years ago and don't remember it being that badly protected.
>It was a little exciting (spaced) but I certainly didn't think it was overly
>dangerous. This new route seems a blatant retrobolt. It may climb a more
>'direct' line but that is only because you can now clip bolts - the trad
>version you wandered around between features to find the gear.

I tend to agree, except I'd refer to it as an overly-protected-retrobolt...

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 54
There are 54 messages in this topic.

 

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