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VIC Southwest You Yangs Big Rock (General) [ You Yangs Guide | Images ]

Author

NEW route at the youies

KP

27-Mar-2006
7:58:32 AM

From the Ritz to the Rubble 25m 16 ***

Finally... a long sustained route at the youies that your not going to die on. Start 3m Right of Marmaduke dirrectly below a U bolt. 3 more bolts lead to DBB. Guaranteed to be a consumer classic.

billk

27-Mar-2006
12:23:46 PM

Thanks Kent, we could do with with a few of those.

grass_hopper

27-Mar-2006
1:17:02 PM

Got to love consumer classics!

simey

27-Mar-2006
2:29:03 PM

On 27/03/2006 KP wrote:
>From the Ritz to the Rubble 25m 16 ***

I think it is a physical impossibility to have a *** route in the Youies.

Dalai

27-Mar-2006
2:37:41 PM

Been discussed to death Simon...

Stars are best if more of a guide for the area. ie. the route is three stars compared to other routes in the You Yangs. Stars primary aim should be to provide a reasonable quality rating for the climbs in the area.

You shouldn't even bother trying to make a comparison between a three star route on Taipan or at Arapiles to a route given the same at one of the local crags...

BA

27-Mar-2006
2:39:18 PM

I'm starting to finalise the next edition of the SW Vic guide, so if you have got your eyes on any other new routes you'd better get them done asap. I've still got copies of the discussions about grades/stars etc from the earlier posts but if you have any further suggestions (nice ones please) get them to me soon please.

simey

27-Mar-2006
3:12:38 PM

On 27/03/2006 Dalai wrote:
>Been discussed to death Simon...

I was being a smart-arse Martin. But while we are on the subject, I think guidebooks that describe a number of different cliffs should be consistent with their use of stars so that you can compare the merits of the various cliffs with each other.

Less-than-average cliffs simply list their better routes with one star.

KP

27-Mar-2006
3:40:08 PM

oh simey... ever the pessimist.

HM33

27-Mar-2006
3:52:50 PM

the system that is really required is a matrix approach.

each area is rated 0-3 stars in relation to how good it is in relation to other areas covered in the guide. then each route needs to be rated 0-3 stars in relation to the other routes at the crag. to get the true merit of the climb you sum the crag star rating and the route star rating to gets a score out of 6. this way you can tell that your new no star route that you put up at your three star crag is equal to a 3 star route at a no star crag.

simple as :)

oh yeah and nice work on the FA KP. good to see you putting routes up again

KP

27-Mar-2006
4:13:00 PM

i think kachoong is a one star route. 7m of worthwhile climbing. The rest is no good.

And no: this is not a troll.

simey

27-Mar-2006
4:53:58 PM

On 27/03/2006 KP wrote:
>i think kachoong is a one star route. 7m of worthwhile climbing. The rest is no good.
>
>And no: this is not a troll.

I reckon even the worst one metre section of Kachoong would be better than any of your recent new route in the Youies.

By the way, isn't your new route on that big blobby thing called Big Rock? I would be surprised if any of the climbs either side of your new route get any more than one star. Even if you argued that your recent addition is a mega-route by Youies standards, I reckon you are making a big call throwing around three stars when none of the routes either side of it rate even two stars.

Your sales pitch is three-star though.

Bob Saki

27-Mar-2006
5:06:28 PM

then again look at some of the other 3 star routes in the youies, even crag specific some of the 3 star routes leave a lot to be desired.

But then again at 25m that's about 5-10m longer than many other routes there, as well as what sounds like adequate bolting.
A You Yangs novelty I'd say....................................

phil_nev

27-Mar-2006
5:29:45 PM

I cant wait to see these two go at it... A battle to last the ages!

Both giants in stature. Simmey has the reach, But old KP has the agility and speed of a jaguar on heat.

As Simmy has a clear advantage, KP will get the home court advanagte and the bout will be staged at Mt Alex.

Meet at High Noon --> Dog Rocks car park.

Be there.

midnight

29-Mar-2006
1:32:11 PM

I climbed the route with Kent, have to call it a consumer classic because of the bolting factor. It was a
pretty good climb and good for newbies leading because you don't have to feel scared of long run outs.
Didn't think it was grade 16 though, it was very inlined with phil's fall. Maybe a 14. Also a star for the nice
flake at the top that can be used as a jug. I think it is one of the best climbs on Big Rock for sure. A
good speed climb especially when getting out of the sun and heat! Maybe two, maybe three stars. fun.

simey

29-Mar-2006
1:55:26 PM

On 29/03/2006 midnight wrote:
>Also a star for the nice flake at the top that can be used as a jug. I think it is one of the best climbs on Big Rock for sure.

Gee, a nice flake that can be used as a jug! WOW! You've sold me. And to think that I was bagging this climb.

And you also say that it is one of the best climbs on Big Rock! Bloody hell, that is a big call, especially when you look at the volume of mega-classics that this cliff has produced over the years. I wouldn't have believed it was possible to improve on perfection.

Forget Kachoong, forget Passport to Insanity, forget the Totem Pole... this climb sounds like an architectural masterpiece.

midnight

29-Mar-2006
2:08:05 PM

Damn right, can be done on a massive hangover, Wouldn't see myself on any of those climbs though i
did climb King Rat after a night of 47 shots and 12 beers so maybe I would give it a go. Always so
hungover when climbing......

KP

29-Mar-2006
3:36:13 PM

sorry jake, I couldn't bare to tell you at the time.. but the flake is out. Unfortunately you were off route.

One thing you were right about though is those shiny three stars. One top notch climb, it most certainly is.

B.A. Baracus

29-Mar-2006
4:59:28 PM

Looks like I missed out on some quality cranking last Sunday boys (and girls). Try not to fight over grades and climbs children. I assure you, if my opinion counted for anything at all, I wouldn't give stars to roofs or slabs. I hate both! (Marine-ply set at 90 degrees... ah, Heaven!)

...Colonel Mustard in the basement with a hot-water bottle.

midnight

31-Mar-2006
4:10:37 PM

But the flake is awesome! Has to be two stars then because that flake jug says " Yeah finally a jug!"

There are 19 messages in this topic.