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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 32
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Author
USA
dfinnecy
5-Jan-2012
11:48:08 AM
I'm with the others who say Smith Rock isn't a great idea this time of year. if you are a local there are lots of great days to seek sun, but it can be very cold. Joshua Tree seems to get a bad wrap here in Aus but I think it is fantastic.
Red Rocks will have beautiful days and a few too cold.
Potrero Chico is the place for winter destination sport climbing in NA.
Olbert
5-Jan-2012
12:50:30 PM
On 5/01/2012 dfinnecy wrote:
>I'm with the others who say Smith Rock isn't a great idea this time of
>year. if you are a local there are lots of great days to seek sun, but
>it can be very cold. Joshua Tree seems to get a bad wrap here in Aus but
>I think it is fantastic.
>Red Rocks will have beautiful days and a few too cold.
>Potrero Chico is the place for winter destination sport climbing in NA.

I wasn't that impressed with Smith Rock in terms of the climbing. It was basically vertical technical crimping, not really my style.

Joshua Tree was slabby cracks with the occasional crimp or even technical crimpy route. This too I didn't like, though then again not really my style. I like my slabs ice cold and cheap and my cracks vertical.

Red Rocks was bloody amazing - the multipitch was unreal and the single pitch was pretty bloody good. No idea on the weather, I was there in mid March and it was quite cold in the shade but multipitching was possible and single pitching in the sun was nice.
dalai
5-Jan-2012
1:18:06 PM
On 5/01/2012 Olbert wrote:

>Red Rocks was bloody amazing - the multipitch was unreal and the single
>pitch was pretty bloody good. No idea on the weather, I was there in mid
>March and it was quite cold in the shade but multipitching was possible
>and single pitching in the sun was nice.

Interesting how peoples views can differ. I ended up only spending a day at Red Rocks at Sunny and Steep. Wasn't impressed with the quality of the Sandstone or the climbing and therefore spent most of my time in the Vegas area; enjoying the stellar limestone of Virgin River Gorge above the drone of the trucks on the Interstate below...

pmonks
6-Jan-2012
6:53:25 AM
Agree with Olbert - Red Rocks is the sh1t. The Calico Basin (where Sunny & Steep is located) is merely average - you have to get up into the canyons to get to the really good stuff.

Prince of Darkness in Black Velvet Canyon should be on everyone's tick list. It offers at least 6 (and up to 10 or 12 if you want to keep going) of awesomely fun mostly-sport climbing at a sustained grade of around 18 or so (with a few harder cruxes thrown in here and there). What's not to love about that?!?
dalai
6-Jan-2012
9:15:38 AM
Probably didn't give Red Rocks a fair chance. I was keener to experience other rock types such as the Limestone that we have so little of...
ademmert
8-Jan-2012
3:21:56 PM
Thanks for the info guys sth Amer!ica sounds interesting.
What did you need in way of gear for cochamo?
Has any one been to frey?
vonClimb
8-Jan-2012
10:00:11 PM
On 8/01/2012 ademmert wrote:
>Thanks for the info guys sth Amer!ica sounds interesting.
>What did you need in way of gear for cochamo?
>Has any one been to frey?

Both are trad. Cochamo is granite so you need plenty of cams.

We went to climb in frey, but there was still too much snow there early Dec. Best to climb there Jan-Feb. Its heaps easier to get to as compared with Cochamo.


cruze
9-Jan-2012
6:23:56 AM
We were thinking about going to Cochamo a couple of years ago then read about the monstrous dumps of rain and the adventurous nature of the climbing (let alone access to the base of the cliffs) and piked for Frey. If climbing is all you can think of day and night then Cochamo might be the deal but if you like to mix it up then fitting Frey in around some volcanoes and trekking and touristy stuff is possibly better.
james
9-Jan-2012
6:10:57 PM
friends of mine from Canmore went to southern Arizona in February just because it was the only place they could find with reliable climbing temps.
The area was Cochise Stronghold. It sounded good. Granite, lots of multipitch, mix of trad & sport (lots of bolts on the slabs apparently), no people. The novelty was a weird little nearby town with a good jazz bar.

These people roadtrip in the US lots & it was the only time they have gone in winter, which probably says something...


The good Dr
9-Jan-2012
9:18:39 PM
Arizona is warm compared to Canmore at that time of year. Actually at any time of year.

vwills
9-Jan-2012
9:58:36 PM
Went to Frey in late Feb 2005. Trad granite, mostly 2-5 pitch routes. Not too cold (I was climbing in full goretex, and socks under rock shoes with gloves for belay, though my cold tolerance is not great). Nice place with a good refugio. Bariloche was hammered by the volcano ash 6 months ago but I presume has cleared up now.
Cochamo and Los Arenales are areas I am looking at in March 2013 though....
singersmith
10-Jan-2012
9:04:37 AM
Most of the winter rock in the States lies in desert regions; i.e. the good days are awesome but the nights are invariably a bit crisp. The best locales have micro climates. Indian Creek is a great example; I was once obsessed with a project there and sitting in the car watching it rain with two partners who wanted to bail for town immediately, "You guys better hope it doesn't start snowing because as soon as the first flakes fall we're walking up there and you two are belaying and spotting [the run-out hard start]." It snowed, I sent.

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