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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Mt Brown - Talk is cheap

vwills

23/12/2011
7:42:06 PM

Not a good time to be asking for beta but in case anyone else is working....Reading thesarvo guide for Talk is Cheap it recommends a small rack from 0.4 to #2 cams but says "does not include gear for rapelling the route".
Does this mean gear belays are necessary for descent or is the rap descent all bolted but gear necessary for trad belays at the top of pitches or for holding you in?

Any other recommendations to avoid getting stuck half way up Mt Brown? "Obligatory moves of 22" should be fine, but I found some pitches on the 23 to the left (Time goes by) a bit of a sandbag and the repercussions of getting sandbagged on this wall is pretty major!

tas alex

23/12/2011
8:11:08 PM

All the belays are fully bolted (generally 2 u bolts) but a couple are 1FH/1U so maybe take a few spare biners to leave on the way down. From memory you can rap it on a single 60m apart from one pitch near the bottom as the pitch lengths described are generally 5-10m longer than the pitches actually are. 2 ropes is probably a safer way of climbing these routes anyway though.

The trad gear is just for climbing and is only needed on easy ground. Rapping the route you should be able to stay into the wall with just the bolts and have the second person down retrieve the draws.

jay590

23/12/2011
9:33:16 PM

i was wondering the exact same thing. thanks heaps

benjenga

23/12/2011
11:20:08 PM

Yeah yeah, psyched to try this route in early jan.

sliamese

24/12/2011
1:49:37 AM

its a pretty rad place to climb!

its written that way as most people used to fix the route on the way down. but more and more people pull ropes now (much better experience!!)

when your done there mentz's brand new mega-ueber classic on cape raoul is gagging for the second ascent....

vwills

24/12/2011
8:25:22 PM

Thanks guys. A queue at Mt Brown! See you there

widewetandslippery

24/12/2011
9:12:18 PM

Go and get it doctor ness!

bl@ke

24/12/2011
9:26:20 PM

I would give up pinky campussing powers to be able to climb routes like that! :D

pmonks

25/12/2011
3:56:39 AM

On 24/12/2011 bl@ke wrote:
>I would give up pinky campussing powers to be able to climb routes like
>that! :D

I thought you were a boulderer now, young bl@ke?

There are 9 messages in this topic.