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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 36
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Eastern Cathedral Range (General) (General) [ Cathedral Guide | Images ] 

Author
New rap route established North Jawbones

shortman
14/01/2012
6:35:25 PM
Ur all a bunch of pussies worried about a few prickles. They're not that bad.
anthonycuskelly
8/11/2012
8:22:28 AM
Re: rope lengths. I did this yesterday with 1x60m, 1x50m, and by bringing the knot down (ie, only letting one rope through the device) we were able to get off, but it was pretty close.
JohnK
7/12/2014
7:35:31 PM
Hard to find these - need some rock cairns to show the way and avoid unnecessary scrambling at the top of the cliff.

Ben_E
7/12/2014
8:00:39 PM
Well, get back up there and put them in. And prune the prickle bushes while you're at it. And maybe get me a beer.

Sorry - that was unnecessary on my behalf. I agree this rap route is a bear to find.

Is the cunningham's skink still at the base begging for food?
JohnK
7/12/2014
9:02:42 PM
On 7/12/2014 Ben_E wrote:
>Well, get back up there and put them in. And prune the prickle bushes while
>you're at it. And maybe get me a beer.
>
>Sorry - that was unnecessary on my behalf. I agree this rap route is a
>bear to find.
>
>Is the cunningham's skink still at the base begging for food?

We'll, we could not find the rap chains, otherwise would put some cairns there myself. We walked down and the prickle bushes were as thick as ever although it seems that what is left of the track has recovered well. Was greeted at by a skink happily munching on a large insect on the first belay of Speigel's.

People going up - put some cairns up there.

Ben_E
7/12/2014
11:40:38 PM
If it's any consolation the rap route involves any amount of prickle bushes as well. Plus getting the ropes caught on flakes and knobs. It's the only abseil that has come close to competing with the comet ramp approach to Ozy for sheer unpleasantness, in my experience. I meant to start an "Repellant Rappels and Abhorrent Abseils " thread, but never got around to it.

For future reference though, from the top of Spiegle's you scramble down a narrow rock gully/chute to the right (as you face the cliff) and then pick your way carefully downhill for ~5-10 meters to find the first rap station.

Hope you had a good day up there.
lukef
8/12/2014
12:07:57 AM
It's not in the guidebook I don't think, but we were surprised to find there are rap chains at the top where Xenith and Whiteline Fever meet. It's a slightly exposed scramble (or an easy climb) from there to the top. With two 60m ropes it was just possible to rap down to a rock platform close to the bottom of Xanthene, and an easy downclimb from there. Definitely a bit of an adventure, many prickles now growing on the track up to the base of the north jawbone!
gfdonc
8/12/2014
10:42:49 AM
On 7/12/2014 JohnK wrote:
>Hard to find these - need some rock cairns to show the way and avoid unnecessary
>scrambling at the top of the cliff.
Umm .. did you not read the first page of this thread John? A photo topo was provided, and with pics of the rings. They're really not hard to find.
By all means, add some cairns. Oh, and a beer sounds good.

On 7/12/2014 Ben_E wrote:
>If it's any consolation the rap route involves any amount of prickle bushes...
>
>For future reference though, from the top of Spiegle's you scramble down
>a narrow rock gully/chute to the right (as you face the cliff) and then
>pick your way carefully downhill for ~5-10 meters to find the first rap
>station.

Umm.. not sure we're on the same page here Ben. The rap rings I put in are to the left of Spiegal's and I don't recall a gully. Check the topo and photos on the first page of this thread. I think you found the rings at the top of Whiteline Fever?

regards, Steve
JohnK
8/12/2014
11:04:40 AM
On 8/12/2014 gfdonc wrote:
>On 7/12/2014 JohnK wrote:
>>Hard to find these - need some rock cairns to show the way and avoid
>unnecessary
>>scrambling at the top of the cliff.
>Umm .. did you not read the first page of this thread John? A photo topo
>was provided, and with pics of the rings. They're really not hard to find.


I did indeed Steve - in fact, I had the print out of the thread in my pocket. It was almost blowing a gale when we got up there on Saturday - perhaps my navigation skills are not as good as most. Bottom line is we could not find them.

gfdonc
8/12/2014
11:23:51 AM
Hmm, hope they're still there ...
JohnK
8/12/2014
11:46:43 AM
On 8/12/2014 gfdonc wrote:
>Hmm, hope they're still there ...
>

I would say they are still there Steve and in all likelihood we were looking at the wrong place - I actually thought they were be way over left (facing to the cliff) of Speigal's over the right of the next major gully.

What could help as well is some more photos on this thread of the precise location as viewed from different angles, particularly coming up from Speigal's.

Also - although they are not in my printed copy OSP "Rockclimbs around Melbourne", I am sure they could be added to the on-line version and future print additions - easy to email Glenn.

JohnK
8/12/2014
12:02:28 PM
...stand corrected - has been mentioned on-line by OSP. but perhaps better photos / exact topo for those with poor navigation skills (aka. me!)

http://osp.com.au/?p=1425

Ben_E
8/12/2014
2:13:28 PM
On 8/12/2014 gfdonc wrote:

>Umm.. not sure we're on the same page here Ben. The rap rings I put in
>are to the left of Spiegal's and I don't recall a gully. Check
>the topo and photos on the first page of this thread. I think you found
>the rings at the top of Whiteline Fever?
>
>regards, Steve

Hi Steve,

Looking at the picture I'm fairly sure we're talking the same rings, though my directions may have been unclear (just to add to the situation!).

Once I get to the top of Spiegel's I usually belay at an ant-infested tree right at the top of the buttress, and then (as you face out from the top) move right and down to gain the rings.

It's possible Spiegle's can be finished by breaking out left earlier and going directly to the rings, which would not involve scrambling back down to them?

The rap line is to the left of Spiegle's when facing the cliff from the bottom, correct?

ajfclark
8/12/2014
2:25:15 PM
On 7/12/2014 Ben_E wrote:
>For future reference though, from the top of Spiegle's you scramble down a narrow rock gully/chute to the right (as you face the cliff) and then pick your way carefully downhill for ~5-10 meters to find the first rap station.

On 8/12/2014 Ben_E wrote:
>Once I get to the top of Spiegel's I usually belay at an ant-infested tree right at the top of the buttress, and then (as you face the cliff from the top) move right and down to gain the rings.

I think you mean facing out rather than facing the cliff.

Ben_E
8/12/2014
2:29:50 PM
On 8/12/2014 ajfclark wrote:

>I think you mean facing out rather than facing the cliff.

Thanks, you're correct. Edited for clarity...
gfdonc
8/12/2014
3:43:13 PM
On 8/12/2014 Ben_E wrote:

>It's possible Spiegle's can be finished by breaking out left earlier and
>going directly to the rings, which would not involve scrambling back down
>to them?
Well theoretically yes, by traversing across Greg's Direct into Traveller's Slab and up. But you wouldn't want to.

>The rap line is to the left of Spiegle's when facing the cliff from the
>bottom, correct?
Correct. Near the top of Traveller's Slab as I noted in the original description.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 36
There are 36 messages in this topic.

 

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