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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles The Pharos (General) Back Wall [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Lamplighter (second pitch)
AndyJS
1/05/2011
6:38:49 PM
Over easter weekend we climbed Lamplighter - great climb and enjoyed it immensely. However we might possibly have gone a little off-route... On the second pitch, by the time I arrived at the offwidth chimney I'd forgotten whether the correct way to go was directly up, or to keep going further right. I suspected that I was supposed to go around, and continuing up didn't seem correct. However I wasn't sure, and holds inside chimney were covered in chalk, so I proceeded upwards.

Since then I've been looking for answers, and found this thread that seems to indicate that the chimney is NOT the way to go. http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=2&MessageID=3819&Replies=1

So, couple of questions:
1) Which way is the correct way?
2) If the chimney is NOT correct, does going this way increase or decrease the grade, or is it much the same?

Cheers,

Andy
patto
1/05/2011
6:56:45 PM
I have done Lamplighter at least 5 times and I don't remember any offwidth chimney. Once you gain the correct start for the 2nd pitch just keep traversing right and up and I find it follows fairly easily. Don't be intimidated by the exposure as that will send you up early rather than heading right.

That said on my first ascent my leader got lost by not heading right on the first pitch. We ended up at the 'Tennis Court' in spiral staircase. On a later ascent when I got complacent about route finding I didn't even have the first belay in the correct position. I ended up on Judgement Day (19), I quickly realised my mistake but pressed on and ended up on Second Coming (22)!
martym
1/05/2011
7:20:28 PM
I've seen many people get lost on that route - my feeling is: the best way is the path of least resistance! It's supposed to be 14; but when you're dangling above the gully like that, it could be a 4 and I'd still be jamming gear into the cracks.

However, i don't recall an offwidth chimney until the crazy roof.
AndyJS
1/05/2011
7:26:24 PM
To be more clear about where the chimney I'm talking about is - it's about 2-4m directly below the second belay point. From the topo in the guide book (p232) it looks like there are three cracks/gaps that go up to the belay - the offwidth chimney is (obviously) the larger of the three - and the route line goes up the far right crack. These other two cracks are sort of around a bit of a curve, although that's not obvious from the photo. When you're actually at the bottom of this chimney you can't see the other cracks and it's really exposed, which is probably why I decided to go up rather than to investigate further.
Rolsen1
1/05/2011
10:48:03 PM
One of the locals will probably answer this better but I've done the climb twice the second time only a few weeks ago. Both times I looked at the line you are talking about and decided to head a couple of metres further right. I think the "proper" line is further right then stepping back left to belay. Hope this helps.

Sabu
2/05/2011
9:18:13 AM
I haven't climbed it in years however I do not remember an off width chimney. Its very much a line of least resistance in the direction of heading up and to the right, aiming for the ledge below the roof.
off_route
2/05/2011
6:57:42 PM
Whatever gets you there I guess.. I started up that off-width, wasn't sure about it, made a belay on that tiny ledge below it and brought my second up, not knowing the actual 'small stance' (AKA pretty decent ledge!) was just a few metres above hahaha. Guess I lived up to my user name there and we did it in 4 pitches instead of 3 : )

Awesome route though, eh. Loved the final pitch.

There are 7 messages in this topic.

 

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