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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians Central Mt Rosea (General) [ Rosea Guide | Images ] 

Ashes to Ashes
john s
9:02:57 PM
Here's a test of obscure routes at Rosea... Anyone done this one and known where they were going? - I'm trying to work out where the third pitch goes from Baxter's description but I'm not sure if is reference points are the original Diane or the 'direct finish' that everybody does.

It sounds like a good adventure but its pretty steep up in that bit of the cliff and I'd hate to be in the wrong place. I see from some other posts that people have got into some strange situations!

11:04:59 PM
John, memories a bit vague after all this time but references to Diane are for the direct route that everyone does. So the second pitch of AtA basically climbs the corner just right of what Baxter describes as pitch 3a and is pitch 3 of Heretic in the Select guide.
The hanging corner we went for on the third pitch of AtoA was pretty obvious I seem to remember but getting up to it was committing.
The first pitch was a good line but the climbing was contrived in parts. Hope that helps.
5:17:53 PM
We set off to do Diane via the DS and DF on about the day Paul Pritchard got smashed on the Totem Pole. This was before Selected Climbs so things got very confused. From memory, one steps L to a substantial ledge with a bulge behind it after 2 pitches of Diane. Mistakenly, I then headed back R and up a wall to skirt the bulge, made some balancy moves L with poor protection, and then shot up the R-most of several hanging corners to an Ashes to Ashes belay ledge. I couldn't find a description of anyone doing this, so wrote it up as Diane Super Direct 19 and put it in Rock in about 1998 .

I don't have the guide book here, but I think ATA also belays on the Diane pitch 2 ledge, surmounts the bulge several metres L of the R-hand end where we were, aims for the next hanging corner L of the one we climbed, and then steps R to the belay ledge. L again is the finish to Diane DF and L again is Diane/Heretic. But it's a complicated piece of real estate.

ATA looks excellent. The DSD pitch was good delicate climbing, but I wouldn't have wanted to come off!
john s
6:39:41 PM
thanks folks.

If I understand all that correctly the 3rd pitch of ATA starts off the big ledge where Heretic and Diane Direct meet. It then goes up to an 'obvious' hanging corner not far R of the Diane/Heretic finish. Now I just have to go and climb it...

I'll let you know how it goes!
8:53:13 AM
your understanding is correct.

prb, I'm not sure where you got to.
> From memory, one steps L to a substantial ledge with
>a bulge behind it after 2 pitches of Diane. Mistakenly, I then headed back
>R and up a wall to skirt the bulge, made some balancy moves L with poor
>protection, and then shot up the R-most of several hanging corners to an
>Ashes to Ashes belay ledge.
Did you do a long second pitch to Diane (about 40m) as many do or a short second pitch (as the guides describe)? Is is quite confusing hereabouts as it's fairly easy to move horizontally one way or the other at many of the belay ledges and have a choice of features to climb. Working out what is what is quite hard.
1:03:43 AM
Yep kieranl, we did the 40m second pitch of Diane so I'm also talking about the ledge where Heretic/ATA/Diane DF meet. CB's book then says "the last two pitches of Heretic (= Diane DF) are now directly above". I took that (wrongly) to mean climb directly above Diane's long corner aiming for a hanging corner straight above us. I should have moved a little L on the ledge, breached the overhang at the most likely spot and carried on up and L. ATA quite possibly breaches the overhang at the same spot, then (as you know!) climbs a wall and hanging corner to a capping roof. You then move R to a belay ledge (according to CB's book).

I don't think Diane Super Direct shares any rock with that ATA pitch. DSD skirts to the R of the overhang and I think my hanging corner is R of your hanging corner as it never hits a capping roof but rather accesses the belay ledge directly.

Anyway, good luck john s wherever you end up. Let us know how you got on!

There are 6 messages in this topic.


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