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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge (General) (General) [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Path of Gengis (23) 300m Mt Buffalo Gorge south si
oldtraddad
29/04/2011
10:16:32 AM
Anyone done this "fine multipitch extravagarden lately? " It gets a star in the guide book but I felt the crux pitch stem was heading into run out lichen Lindorff desperate and backed off. The easier left hand varient was more to my liking, totally vegetated ant infested, the fine 3rd pitch 19 slab completely mossed up with a run out to fill the trousers straight off the belay , avoided with an obvious grade 12 crack 2 metres to the left for most of it. And the classic 5th pitch did have an excellent 12 metre section but hardly worth a star if the full 300m is taken into account. We traversed off right here as the cracks above seemed fully overgrown.

Buffalo is great but was thinking stars on routes like this are the reason we only saw one other party climbing there the whole Easter break and the weather was awesome.
oldtraddad
29/04/2011
10:18:39 AM
PS maybe that second pitch needs a bolt or two??
james
30/04/2011
9:09:12 AM
IMO Buffalo suffers from not being climbed enough. Really doesn't get much traffic, most people climb does the same few routes, & hardly anyone is motivated enough to go brushing stuff.. Without moss & vegetation routes like this are more deserving of the stars.

There are 3 messages in this topic.

 

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