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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Central Buttress [ Grampians Guide | Images ]

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mania

hairy1

13-Mar-2011
1:15:29 PM

did mania (the route that goes up the right side of central buttress) the other day - various guides reckon its grade 18 and worth a star. We thought it was really good - at least worth a couple of stars and fairly overgraded - more like pitch 1 gr16, pitch 2 gr15 pitch 3 gr16. Anyone agree/disagree?

hairy

Paz

14-Mar-2011
11:50:32 AM

Hey Tim, we did it day after you guys. agree regarding grade....first pitch definitely more difficult than latter two. Wouldn't add extra stars though, was painful to leave crack on first pitch and head right, routes to the left look far nicer and more sustained....

hairy1

14-Mar-2011
12:34:02 PM

i guess my feeling was that at grade 15/16 the route will never follow the same sort of features as eg. Technical Ecstasy - but lets face it, I have never found the other on the wall 'sustained' either (Technical Ecstasy P1 gr 16, P2 gr 19/20, P3 gr 17) Simpleton (p1 doddle, P2 gr 18, p3 gr 17).

so if mania is relatively 'sustained' (say between gr 14 - 16) has nice moves, great gear and rock it seems reasonable that its currently under-starred - The Navigator gets *** and whilst its a really nice climb, with pitches graded between 15 and 21 its nowhere near sustained.

widewetandslippery

14-Mar-2011
12:37:11 PM

You fellas are highly critical. You know its always the first ascentionist fault. You should take it up with them.

Wendy

14-Mar-2011
1:52:19 PM

I think it's a pretty nice route and whilst it might feel easier than Simplton, i reckon it's because most people feel happier on juggy roofs than fat corner cracks. 18s aren't that hard, so it's not going to feel that hard. Compare it to similar style things of that grade - it's probably similar to Jens Roof, the roofs on Blind Prophet or a smidge harder than Surface to Air, maybe not quite as pumpy as Hurts, in the same realm as the entire Sundeck (moves wise, single pitch and bolted not withstanding).

Shouldn't you just enjoy the climb and congratulate yourselves on cruising it rather than nitpicking about is it sustained, does it have the exactly right number of stars, is it really, really 18?

hairy1

14-Mar-2011
9:46:30 PM

>Shouldn't you just enjoy the climb and congratulate yourselves on cruising it rather than nitpicking about >is it sustained, does it have the exactly right number of stars, is it really, really 18?

yeah fair enough, the reason i brought it up was more as a publicity campaign, that it may be easier/better than the writeups make out

Gavo

7-Apr-2011
11:12:58 AM

Found that pretty funny.. I climbed this with another Tim around the same date... I did the first pitch and had to work pretty hard to get off the ledge sort of safely but after that didnt think it was a struggle at all.

I absolutely loved the finishing roof

freesolo

8-Apr-2011
5:24:33 PM

from what i recall, the route felt more 16'ish. the corner to the left was harder, can't remember the name, just remember a few meters in the middle on the face that didn't protect that well.

There are 8 messages in this topic.