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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 62
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Bouldering Parkes NSW?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7-Feb-2011
9:18:48 PM
On 7/02/2011 rodw wrote:
>Was this one of the walls you climbed on M9
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/ljackson/124909527/
>

That is the eastern tier. It is the one that I paid the least attention to, as I regarded the main wall (southern end), as the prize, due it being the tallest part; and the west tier was a convenience thing to take beginners to.

@ Paulie ...
Google.
-33.422451, 148.998678
~> It is about 2 km due north of the Cadia Minesite.
The climbing is on the west side of the 'rock hill' and varies in height up to about 20 m with the obvious lines all being done long ago!

wallwombat
7-Feb-2011
10:13:40 PM
I'm going to be based in Grenfell (30 mins from Cowra) at least 80% of the time from now on, so Cowra is a good bouldering option for me, as is Nangar for roped climbing.

I intend on checking out Nangar when the weather cools a bit and I think I will try and check out Conimbla NP (between Grenfell and Cowra) pretty soon too.
Godless
8-Feb-2011
9:38:08 AM
Nowhere near Parkes but in Western NSW, I'm moving to Leeton for a few years. Gordie mentioned a little cliff out there. Anyone know any details? Any thing else in the area?

rodw
8-Feb-2011
11:29:03 AM
Take ya camera WW (and ya drill just don't tell m9)

Paulie
8-Feb-2011
10:54:49 PM
On 7/02/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>@ Paulie ...
>Google.
>-33.422451, 148.998678
>~> It is about 2 km due north of the Cadia Minesite.
>The climbing is on the west side of the 'rock hill' and varies in height
>up to about 20 m with the obvious lines all being done long ago!

Thanks mate, I'll check it out when up there next.
widewetandslippery
9-Feb-2011
2:06:18 PM
Whats access to the top of the crag like and would it be possible to get a compressor in tere?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
9-Feb-2011
2:28:54 PM
On 9/02/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Whats access to the top of the crag like and would it be possible to get a compressor in tere?

You need to harden up ww&s!
If Cesare Maestri can lug a compressor up Cerro Torre, you should be right with a poxy small cliff!

Oh, and there is a 4wd track going most of the way to the top of the southern rim...
Heh, heh, heh.
widewetandslippery
9-Feb-2011
2:47:19 PM
M9, in the previous nangar thread mulchy noted he found cliff base access siddling from the road, a few kms but essentially flat.

Any bouldering at Nangar?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
9-Feb-2011
2:52:29 PM
On 9/02/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>M9, in the previous nangar thread mulchy noted he found cliff base access
>siddling from the road, a few kms but essentially flat.
>
Till the last half km uphill bushbash once you jump the fence/enter the park!
Also requires access permission from the landholder up to that point...
The old fellah I used to ask is probably deceased by now, as it has been a while since I was there.

Have I mentioned that the rock is friable/very sharp in most places?

>Any bouldering at Nangar?

None that I saw.

wallwombat
9-Feb-2011
2:54:52 PM
I have no qualms about hand drilling bolts on lead and the flakey nature of the rock at Nangar looks like it would suit hook placements. It's not my preferred method of bolting but if M9 is going to go all Ken Nichols* and start driving hundreds of kms to chop bolts, then it it might be a compromise that will keep Nangar an "adventure cliff' and tantrums to a minimum.


* Infamous seppo bolt chopper
widewetandslippery
9-Feb-2011
3:07:40 PM
Its $36.50 full fare each way to Eugowra. Just rang the Fat lamb and Central Hotels in town. No taxi, niether pub has a mini bus or any shit like that. Any ideas how to get there from the station?

Anyone?

rodw
9-Feb-2011
3:23:03 PM
Easier to just come climbing with me this Sunday WWS...ya in? Ill drive ya to the pub after festivities at the crag too.
widewetandslippery
9-Feb-2011
3:31:29 PM
Definately up for sunday mate, just interested in Nangar for a future holiday. I've spent countless weekends travelling to the ACT etc on public transport for similar time frames and cost. Eugowra has a pub called the Fat Lamb. Thats cool. Also at some stage I should get the ryobi off you (cant be buggered this weekend if thats ok?) as the cutting disc eliminates all these friable flakes M9 is talking about.

Edit: I hope our favourite bar attendant is on duty.

rodw
9-Feb-2011
3:37:11 PM
She was back last week, she gave me free cokes for Kev :)

Just give me heads up when ya want the drill back.

wallwombat
9-Feb-2011
3:37:12 PM
On 9/02/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Its $36.50 full fare each way to Eugowra. Just rang the Fat lamb and Central
>Hotels in town. No taxi, niether pub has a mini bus or any shit like that.
>Any ideas how to get there from the station?
>
>Anyone?

Don't worry about getting to Eugowra. Just come to Grenfell and I can easily organise a drop off and pick up for us. It's not that far.

I will try and do a recon trip there as soon as it cools down a bit and suss out the best access to the cliffs, get some photos,etc, etc..

IdratherbeclimbingM9
9-Feb-2011
8:31:37 PM
On 9/02/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Its $36.50 full fare each way to Eugowra. Just rang the Fat lamb and Central
>Hotels in town. No taxi, niether pub has a mini bus or any shit like that.
>Any ideas how to get there from the station?
>
>Anyone?

If you are going from Orange to Eugowra by bus, then the bus drives right past the front of the short vallley (4km long?) that the Nangar cliffs are the head of. Keep an eye out on the LHS of the bus, and when you see the cliffs ask the driver to stop and let you off at the road that runs up the west side of the valley. If you get to a property named Glenayr (sp?), just past a creek bridge where the road is often cut during floods, then you have gone about a half km too far!
I would expect local drivers to know where you are talking about with this vague description.
~> You would also have to pre-organise with the driver to pick you up on a return journey...

The Fat Lamb used to be a good (popular) pub that was also a favourite with bikies...
I don't know what it is like these days, as it has been a while since I was there.

Re bolts and tantrums. I can relate to ww bolting on lead, and if you re-read my earlier post/s I think I said I was against uneccessary bolts, ie I would like to see the area retaining its adventure spirit, but if climbing a protectionless wall, then an occasional bolt works for me.
I'm pretty sure Adam Bridwell-Sharma and his climbing mate Dave Slippery, are not in the vein of overbolted clipups masquerading as climbs!

wallwombat
21-Feb-2011
7:24:04 PM
Last week,I went for a look at the western side of Weddin Montain, near Grenfell. It looks like there is a fair bit of bouldering potential there. I went for a walk up to Ben Hall's Cave and checked out a few boulders. The sandstone was bullet hard and excellent. There was what I estimate to be, a V6ish overhanging arete with a slopey, slabby top out that looked to be a classic and that was about 10 meters down the track from the cave.

From the cave you can see a wide gully to the north that has a lot of even nicer looking big grey boulders. That will be the target of my next visit and I'll be taking my pad and shoes.

By the looks of it, all the gullies running off the west side of the mountain are riddled with boulders and small cliffs.

I will try and remember to take my camera next visit. It's only 25 kms from home, so I'll be back soon.

I also manage to gain access to a heap of really nice granite boulders, even closer to home. They are on private property but I asked the landowner if he minded me climbing there and he said no worries.


wallwombat
2-Mar-2011
9:30:38 AM
Some photos of the boulders at Cowra

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8126023@N05/?saved=1
widewetandslippery
2-Mar-2011
9:35:34 AM
Weddin and Grenfell boulder pictures!

wallwombat
2-Mar-2011
9:50:57 AM
On 2/03/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Weddin and Grenfell boulder pictures!

Soon.

The Cowra boulders are excellent though and there is a fair bit of potential for some hard stuff. All within walking distance from the pub. Didn't see a spot of chalk.

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There are 62 messages in this topic.

 

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