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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Mackey's Lookout (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Author
Trail of Blood 515m (14) Mt Buffalo

Superstu
24/01/2011
9:47:30 AM
Another new route on the slabs below Mackeys Lookout. We set out to repeat The Bleeding Nun but could not locate it. My guess it's further left, and best approached up the ridge L of the creek.


Trail of Blood 515m 14
Start is good but soon deteriorates.
Access: As for Noblise Oblige: Follow yellow tape up ridge to base of Noblise Oblige (easily locatable from first bolt on R most low-angled slab). Cross L vegetated line to slab of Good Luck and Good Management (also with FHs), then cross next vegetated line to large slab that starts a bit lower.
1. 70m 14 Up sweeping slabs past distinctive "X" where two dykes cross-cross to shrub belay. No protection.
2. 40m 13 Up water runnels to shrub belay. No protection.
3. 35m 13 Up 20m then L into bushes and bash through to slabs on other side.
4. 35m 10 Straight up R of creek to shrub belay. Stay L of main bushy gully.
5. 60m 12 Up and R following clean rock joining R-leaning line (gear) up to obvious broken overlap (belay).
6. 45m 11 Through overlap and up line leading R slightly. Cam belay in trench.
7. 50m 10 Up between vegetated lines to belay in dry scrubby creek on L.
8. 50m 12 R and up through gap in bushes to trench belay on L.
9. 50m 8 Follow giant R-leading dykes to belay in next horizontal scrub band.
10. 40m 8 Up towards big towering black overlap, weaving around scrub and moss, passing some big blocks.
11. 40m 8 Head L to avoid overlap and enter scrub with much disappointment and start bush bashing.
Another 50m of hideous scrub bashing to the walking track.
FA: Stu Dobbie, Ben Wright, Dorothea Hahn 24/1/11
6 hours car-to-car
gfdonc
24/01/2011
10:52:05 AM
Thanks for that. We saw your cars there on our way out. The yellow tape was my effort from Saturday, but I ran out.

Superstu
24/01/2011
3:13:52 PM
We also appreciated your track maintenance too!

gfdonc
25/01/2011
3:17:38 PM
I've posted a collection of the Mackey's Peak routes into an interim guide,
http://staff.data.com.au/stoal/Chockstone/mackeys.doc


Rupert
25/01/2011
5:15:39 PM
I love how its pitch 5 before any mention of decent pro :)

Sounds like fun!

nmonteith
25/01/2011
5:42:56 PM
On 25/01/2011 gfdonc wrote:
>I've posted a collection of the Mackey's Peak routes into an interim guide,
>http://staff.data.com.au/stoal/Chockstone/mackeys.doc

Why don't you just enter them on the climb.org.au website with all the other new routes??
stingray4100
25/01/2011
6:34:35 PM
On 25/01/2011 Rupert wrote:
>I love how its pitch 5 before any mention of decent pro :)
>
>Sounds like fun!

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing, why bother with ropes at all? All the hard stuff is done in the first 2 pitches with no pro and by that time you're already 100m off the deck! gutsy stuff.
gfdonc
25/01/2011
10:35:51 PM
On 25/01/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>Why don't you just enter them on the climb.org.au website with all the
>other new routes??

Will do, still waiting on authorisation and this was quicker.

There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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