Rock Master Publications:
Sublime Climbs - A Guide to the best rock climbing venues in Victoria, Australia.By Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding & Jarrod Hodgson. Over 700 climbs, 158 phototopos, 36 maps, and 380 pages covering the best of Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo and the Grampians $45.00
Pitch 1 - Start: as for Speigal's Overhang (this is the crack roughly in the middle of the right-hand buttress, up and right of the start of Route 1 which takes the juggy front pillar/buttress). Follow slabby crack as for Speigal's Overhang.
Pitch 2 - as for Route Two. From the end of p1, angle left on the slab (used to be bushy) to reach the corner. Up this to belay off gear just level with a small line of roofs.
Pitch 3 - traverse right from the belay 4m and through the bulge. Up the slab past two carrots to a crack, and to the main overhang. (#4 friend is useful under the roof, but the key runner is a wire that can be placed above the roof). Turn the roof (technical) to a belay just above off gear (can be tricky to find a good belay here, check high placements).
Pitch 4: Traverse left from the belay to a thin crack/groove which is followed upwards (4&5 RP handy) and up to where it steepens, and a BR (carrot). Head right through the bulge on welcome pockets to reach the traverse line (Traverse of the Gods - clip the RH bolt for your second!) and belay in the corner on right (Speigal's).
I haven't done the route for a few years so apologies if some of the beta isn't quite right.
Pitches 3 and 4 are roughly equal grade.
For the best finish, traverse left along Traverse of the Gods to the LH bolt then straight up with some wires and via another small carrot (care with biner choice) (Greg's Direct gr 14).
To find the start, go right across the base of the cliff line until you run out of buttress, then scramble up a few metres.
Been up there since the fires. Access is as usual, but a bit loose. Route description seems a little long - let me check . . .
OK, actually Beta is perfect. Xanthene is actually pitch 3 & 4 of the above good description. If you haven't been to Cathedral before you may find the description of the start a little vague. Most of the bushes are there, but only as charcoal encrusted skeletons. If you find a bolt plate amongst the bushes on pitch two of the description, its mine - dropped by a second from Greg's direct before the fires.
On 5/10/2010 WM wrote:
> - do Xanthene (pitches 3 and 4 of gfdonc's description) in 1 pitch -
>eliminates the tricky belay and is an awesome long-ish pitch by Melb standards
I can imagine that's possible, but I wouldn't recommend that. Rope drag?
I'm sure the belay used to have a fixed pin but last couple of times up there it wasn't there.
Some replacement metalwork is required IMHO.
>edit: gfdonc, your pitch 2 is actually part of Route 1 not Route 2.
I beg to differ - Route 1 goes up the front of the buttress doesn't it? Or do I have them mixed up.
On 5/10/2010 gfdonc wrote:
>I'm sure the belay used to have a fixed pin but last couple of times up
>there it wasn't there.
>Some replacement metalwork is required IMHO.
Yay, for the re-establishment of the fixed pin!
I second the emotion!!