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Crag & Route Beta

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Glasshouse mts.

Bernardo

21-Jun-2004
7:00:55 PM

hello everyone, im planing to go to the glass house mts (and frog) next week sometime adn was looking at some guides. i found a bunch of realy long easy climbs(300 m PLus) and was just wondering whether any of them are realy worth it. adn while im at it: are there any suggestions of climbs which i should have a look at?(as long as they are below 19-20 that is)
thanks:)

nmonteith

22-Jun-2004
8:58:42 AM

Post on queenslands climbing forum - qurank.com and you will actually get responses to this question! The routes in the GH mtns are long, loose and very airy in places. Definatly adventure climbing and well worth the effort at this time of year. Recommeded routes...

Caves Route (4) - good solo
Black Orpheous/Trojan linkup - (13)
Carborudum Chimney/Trojan linkup - (13)
Sunburnt Butress (19)
Airtime over Pumicstone (21)

phil box

22-Jun-2004
4:53:00 PM

All of Neils suggestions are for climbs on Mt. Tibrogargan not only that but they are very good suggestions to boot.

I would like to add Clemency 230m 16 and Dreadnought 375m 16.

Clemency will take you up to the Halfway House terrace from which a bunch of other sport routes start from or else just continue to the top.

Dreadnought is definitely a classic.

One word of warning on any attempt at climbing any of these routes is that you should definitely print out the guide which is on the qurank site and you should also have very good route finding skills coupled with reading the guide as you ascend the route. Some of the holds can become portable at the most unexpected moments so watch out. Aliens are key on any rack for this mountain. Definitely take a camera and tell us of your adventure.

Bernardo

24-Jun-2004
12:05:17 AM

cool thanks guys.
it probably wont be a big ad venture after all but should be fun none the less.
been spending the last couple of days at kangaroo point, which has been great fun.
i should be heading out to the mts on friday. so im looking for some fun longish climbs ont he easyer
side(been doingplenty of harder ones at KP) ill try to get a trip report organised ast the end of the holidays.
(its very likely to contain, queensland, nsw adn act...should be fun:))

nmonteith

24-Jun-2004
9:12:21 AM

For an easy excellent day out with a minimal rack i reccomend Caves Route/Trojan link up. Crux is exposed grade 13 right at the top of the 300m high east face of Tibrogragn. You will only need to rope up for about 3 pitches. If you bring two ropes you can rap off from Trojan - which is awesome. Free hanging full 50m - and it makes a great rope swing when you are down. You swing out over the bottom of the east face - 200m+ of exposure in a rope swing. It makes the Arapiles swing seem pretty lame...

Wollemi

11-May-2010
10:07:50 PM

"The evacuation went off without a hitch, and soon we were all getting our photo taken at the base of the cliff.
Then it happened.
An SES volunteer who was still packing up ropes yelled "ROCK!"
We all took cover until rocks stopped falling. But apparently they hadn't. I turned and looked over my shoulder and it was at that moment that ol' Tibro' decided to slap me across the face with a hunk of volcano..."

http://www.smh.com.au/travel/rock-how-i-became-that-idiot-rescued-off-a-mountain-20100510-uoe5.html

Gareth

11-May-2010
10:57:21 PM

Don't forget Blabbermouth on the north wall (sunburnt buttress)

There are 7 messages in this topic.