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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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All TAS (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Climbing gear required at freycinet, tasmania
robbio
5/12/2009
10:42:57 PM
Hi.

I'm flying to tasi at around christmas time and am planning on spending a few days at freycinet with my girlfriend, hoping to get some climbs in while we're there. Planning to do a few easier climbs, namely Apline 70m grade 12, and unnamed 50m grade 15, (both at white water wall) as well as the big slab climb called pneisses 240m grade 15 at the hazards main wall.

To save on weight on the plane I was hoping to trim my rack down, and having not climbed there before I was wondering what kind of pro I should bring, and what should i leave at home...

I was thinking of bringing the following:

RPs
A set of wires (some doubles in the smaller sizes)
small to medium cams
slings and some bolt plates...

Anyone done the climbs i listed, and would that gear cover it?

I figured i'd leave my offsets at home (both dmm peanuts and hb offsets) as well as my beloved hexes and large cams. What are your thoughts? Anyone found offsets useful there?

One other thing, how do you go about cleaning climbing gear after climbing at sea cliffs?

Cheers, Rob.

wallwombat
5/12/2009
10:57:39 PM
On 5/12/2009 robbio wrote:

>One other thing, how do you go about cleaning climbing gear after climbing
>at sea cliffs?

The same way you clean climbing gear on most other cliffs - the leader puts the gear in and the second takes the gear out.

The rack sounds fine to me.

Phil Box
6/12/2009
8:32:30 AM
Hee hee, /\/\ that's funny.

robbio, definitely take your hexes. I can just about do all the climbs on White Water wall with just my hexes. There are some largish cracks on WW Wall so some biggish gear would be handy, say up to a 3.5 Camalot. HB offset nuts also rool.
robbio
6/12/2009
10:35:00 AM
Thanks phil, thats the kind of info i was after!

cruze
7/12/2009
11:05:04 AM
I haven't done the longer climb you mention but have done the other two (plus others around Whitewater Wall). I found the sea washed granite to have quite a few flared/rounded cracks. I took hexes but probably only take them if you know how to fiddle them. Otherwise cams will be more useful.
As for cleaning gear, to offer something a ilttle more productive, maybe just wash them in warm water and allow to dry thoroughly before a bit of cam lube on the cams.
The drive into freycinet can be a bit brutal on low clearance cars. We resorted to having me run alongside the festiva hire car for most of the way in to pick the best line. Kinda like slalom??!! The campsite area is beautifully located. Access couldn't get much better - kinda like Point perp but not as big and can be accessed by walking down to most areas. Stunning place. Envious.
widewetandslippery
7/12/2009
11:21:12 AM
I don't think its worth cuting back on your rack when going on a trip. Nothing worse than we coulda but didn't coz we didn't have........ Some of the routes eat gear. Cut the weight somewhere else.

Another envious customer. The place is awesome.

evanbb
7/12/2009
11:41:00 AM
I agree with all above. I didn't use a plate while I was there though.

Freycinet is my favourite climbing holiday destination. Love the place.

I too used my hexes quite a lot. Even on the cracks. I guess because they do flare back and forth a bit there are some stonking hex placements.
barney800
14/12/2012
12:39:04 PM
Hi,

I have similar plans to those robbio had a few years ago for this coming Christmas (and am really looking forward to it - Freycinet looks ace). Most of my gear queries have been answered above, but could anyone offer advice on ropes? My choices are a pair of 50m ropes or a single 60m. I'm leaning towards the 50s for flexibility (plus they're dry treated) but am wondering whether an extra 10m might be handy if I decide to do one of the big, grade 15/16 slab climbs. It's quite possible I'll take a look at the slabs and be scared off though, I only really fancy it if the climbing's not stressful.

Cheers!
bones
14/12/2012
4:27:54 PM
On 14/12/2012 barney800 wrote:
>one of the big, grade 15/16 slab climbs. It's quite possible I'll take
>a look at the slabs and be scared off though, I only really fancy it if
>the climbing's not stressful.

Japhelion (or whatever it is), the gr 16 on the hazards, could be considered stressful - it's not hard but doesn't have much gear....
widewetandslippery
14/12/2012
4:33:27 PM
Take your own plastic bags. Born again greenie coles bay is plastic bag free town.
barney800
14/12/2012
4:55:17 PM
>Japhelion (or whatever it is), the gr 16 on the hazards, could be considered
>stressful - it's not hard but doesn't have much gear....

Thanks for the tip. I don't mind running it out a bit on slabs, as long I don't have to do dodgy smearing moves on little nubbins. I guess I'll just wander over there and see how steep/featured it looks before jumping on.

Cheers for the tip on plastic bags as well! Saves me trying to carry my shopping home in my climbing sack, and undoubtedly ending up with a Christmas dinner tasting of climbing shoes.

Duang Daunk
2/01/2013
4:26:28 PM
On 14/12/2012 bones wrote:
>On 14/12/2012 barney800 wrote:
>>one of the big, grade 15/16 slab climbs. It's quite possible I'll take
>>a look at the slabs and be scared off though, I only really fancy it
>if the climbing's not stressful.
>
>Japhelion (or whatever it is), the gr 16 on the hazards, could be considered
>stressful - it's not hard but doesn't have much gear....

Posted like a sport climber would say it.

There are 12 messages in this topic.

 

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