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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Elijah - Bluff Mtn
stum3
6-Oct-2009
1:09:46 PM
Anyone done Elijah (17) on Bluff Mtn at the Warrumbungles? Had 2 attempts at it on the weekend (then gave up and did Flight again!). Am pretty sure we got to the top of the 2nd pitch as per the Rock Guide, but got lost after that. Tried going straight up, and ended up on what we thought were chain anchors for Trouser Tracks (21) - passed a few carrots on the way. Then tried going up left from the 2nd belay, but there wasnt much pro, and it felt a lot harder than 17, so did a sketchy traverse back to the chain anchors again and rapped off. Was tempted to head up from the chain anchors to try to find the line, but didnt fancy a 21...bit soft...

Does anyone know if the old guide had any more detail, and how one would get a copy of it? Cheers, Stu

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6-Oct-2009
4:10:34 PM
I will try and make time to look up (and post here), the original descriptions for you.

>Does anyone know if the old guide had any more detail, and how one would get a copy of it?

The Rangers Station at the Park has? (had), an old reference copy for perusal a while ago. They would not loan it out, but you could possibly get a photocopy of it?
john s
6-Oct-2009
7:22:25 PM
Hi Stu

I haven't done Elijah but I did get some beta from Noddy a few years ago: there is a 50 foot traverse (left) missing in the Joe Friend guide. The trick is to find a traverse line that takes you across almost to the blunt arete R of Flight of the Phoenix above the first big line of overhangs and below the second. It goes a long way left from the point where Trouser tracks leaves it.

I believe the topo on p.25 of Mark Colyvan's Rock guide is reasonably accurate (allowing for the big dots and the fact that the 300m wall is 6 cm high in the photo!) Happy to send you a copy of the Rock guide if you can't get hold of an original.

Good luck!

John

stum3
7-Oct-2009
11:54:49 AM
Cheers - thought there had to be a big traverse. The other topo in the Colyvan guide (showing Flight of the Phoenix) has Elijah shown much more direct - to the right of the black streaks - it may just be a case of the angle of the photo - although this looks like it was meant to be Trouser Tracks...

Will have to give it another go and try to pick a better line for the traverse - awsome face, albeit a bit intimidating!!
jrc
8-Oct-2009
5:24:14 PM
I have done Elijah twice, once with Bryden in 1997 and again in 2000. A very nice route and with fairly easy route finding. Bryden made the point he hadned remembered anything from 33 years beforehand! But, you climb where you can and believe it of not a passage of 16/17 becomes evident in a great sea of blocks and overhangs.



Anyway I do have a topo and a few pictures and other info if you email me, jcroker@bigpond.net.au; or give me a call 0418 263 795.You may even persuade me out there again!

E. Wells
24-Sep-2015
2:41:15 PM
I may have Stums booty. Petzl spirits. Silver on one side, dark orange and blue on the other! Nice climb.
widewetandslippery
24-Sep-2015
10:13:52 PM
good route. i ended up in chatting distance with blokes on phoenix up high after getting a bit lost on a rope stretching pitch as happens in the bungles.

my advice would be have another go. I did ginsberg on a third attempt. first a wrong start, second a thunderstorm, third a ball clenching summit all worth the effort;

E. Wells
25-Sep-2015
9:04:09 AM
We enjoyed the climb and stayed on route. Was the wrong start to Ginsberg owing to one particular guide saying '15m right of nose' when it really starts 15 m left? This cost me alot of bad rock/time and effort doing Neruda and we ended up doing the last pitches by head torch. Elijah was great and I never ended up taking my apoeoach shoes off!
widewetandslippery
25-Sep-2015
12:56:02 PM
E.Wells, the wrong start is exactly as you described. On second I had a whole foot ledge let go. By the time we found the route, at the traverse pitch it was late and we bailed.

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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