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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Buffalo Gorge South Side Beowulf & Environs [ Gorge Guide ]

Author

Beowulf

WM

4-Apr-2004
8:40:08 PM

Just wanted to claim the first ascent of the new forum.....

Beowulf is bloody hard! Kudos to Owen for making it look so easy in the chockstone video...

PS: this new topic creation system is very cool Mike!

oweng

5-Apr-2004
8:35:08 AM

WM, thanks for the kudos.

I seconded Beowulf 4 or 5 years ago, and found it pumpy and desperate. I was surprised that on lead I got up it ok.

Beta, has a hands free rest at half height, and the gear is plentiful the whole way, untill the last 4 or so metres (crux) where the crack closes. From memory I could have got some small nuts in the top (from level with where the face holds on the left wall start) but the face holds are good, and the pump is such that hanging around to place gear didnt seem the best idea.

There is no need to tape hands for the route, as it is mostly laybacking (for me anyway).

nmonteith

5-Apr-2004
1:19:53 PM

When the route gets desperate look right and stick your feet in a bridging positon. Trying to only layback/jam the last bit is mighty hard!

IdratherbeclimbingM9

5-Apr-2004
2:27:30 PM

While laybacking you can 'backstep' a vertical edge at about 3/4 height (on the right wall) for a no hands rest.

kieranl

7-Apr-2004
10:17:04 PM

Is there still a peg?

IdratherbeclimbingM9

8-Apr-2004
9:39:31 AM

On 7/04/2004 kieranl wrote:
>Is there still a peg?
No, there has not been one for at least 5 years.

There are 6 messages in this topic.