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Tiger Wall - Dribble Bolting?


Zebedee

14-Aug-2009
10:35:22 PM

On 14/08/2009 surfinclimb wrote:
>GOOD. Now that you have voiced your opinion, repetitively, would you now
>shut up and go away!!
>I am personally sick of reading your constant whinging about bolts at
>Arapiles. We understand. You dont like them and want them all removed for
>your own personal ethical satisfaction. What I find interesting is that
>you only sook about Simeys bolts, Not Daves or Neils or Mikl's or even
>Muki's shamefull retro bolting of Alis (joke). Just Simeys. So what is
>your gripe with Simey. Dont like guide books?, dont like new route developers?,
>people who contribute to the climbing community for 30 years? or perhaps
>he's knocked you back before one lonely night. Please tell us all, get
>it out in the open so Simey can apologise, but most importantly so we dont
>have too listen to your constant squealing anymore.
Gosh, he's gone all Muki on his ǎrse.
There are at least a few people who think a more conservative bolting of Arapiles would be better but after pissing into a hurricane have given up expressing an opinion. I don't think retrobolting is good. I don't think the chains on Alis are a good thing. I don't think unbridled installation of rap stations is helping the environment. But I know if I say this I will get pìssed on by people who think otherwise. Good luck robertsonja and if Simey did knock you back just keep on throwing yourself at him eventually he'll weaken.


Chuck Norris

15-Aug-2009
12:05:46 AM

On 14/08/2009 Zebedee wrote:

>There are at least a few people who think a more conservative bolting
>of Arapiles would be better

plus 1.

Walk off...smell the f---ing roses....I can't really see what the big deal is.

surfinclimb

15-Aug-2009
9:34:26 AM

On 15/08/2009 stugang wrote:
>Walk off...smell the f---ing roses....I can't really see what the big
>deal is.

Thats my whole point exactly! Who REALLY cares about 2 bolts on Tiger wall.


The good Dr

15-Aug-2009
10:15:14 AM

or perhaps>>he's knocked you back before one lonely night. Please tell us all, get>>it out in the open so Simey can apologise,

and if Simey did knock you back just keep on throwing yourself at him eventually>he'll weaken.

... and now the crux of the matter is revealed. robertsonja likes his routes au natural and Simey would prefer a but of artificial protection as you never know where robertsonja has put his nuts before.


Chuck Norris

15-Aug-2009
10:30:53 PM

On 15/08/2009 surfinclimb wrote:
>On 15/08/2009 stugang wrote:
>>Walk off...smell the f---ing roses....I can't really see what the big
>>deal is.
>
>Thats my whole point exactly! Who REALLY cares about 2 bolts on Tiger
>wall.
>

I couldn't give a rats arse about 2 bolts somewhere on tiger wall, and on a sliding scale of exercising
judgement simey prolly aint too bad..so that's not my gripe. What pisses me off is....whilst I am
grateful and appreciate people that make the effort to replace crap bolts etc. ... there seems to be a
few that expect adulation for whacking in unnecessary f'ing rap anchors all over the place...."cos they
are doing something for the community".... them sort can go f themselves.

hero

16-Aug-2009
7:48:57 PM

Nice to have you back Stugang.

Is that a spade?


muki

17-Aug-2009
12:30:51 AM

He might just be glad to see you gordo

hero

17-Aug-2009
9:59:21 AM

Hey, that's funny.

In many ways.


Sarah Gara

18-Aug-2009
3:29:43 PM

Ok you lot. Sol and I climbed the dribble on saturday -I led the 50m grade 10 pitch likely my longest pitch on lead. I wasn't terrified but at about 40m I was very relieved that there were going to be bolts at the top as I was rapidly running out of gear. Had i been climbing on my rack -one set of nuts and hexs I would have ran out of gear. i would also have been terrified because of this.

Sol's rack though (no jokes about inverse relationships!! -i wouldn't know!) is bigger than mine... and i did have enough gear - and placed a lot of it. but still at 40m i was glad to know that there were bolts.

But at about 45m the route really eases off -nice little terraces and easy climbing and I felt disappointed to see 2 shiny bolts on the wall at the back and thought that it did indeed spoil my enjoyment of the route. - You could do several cartwheels on that ledge.

i therefore did not clip the bolts. Got one bomber placement - and one other that i didn't really trust. (sol thought it was bomber) I couldn't easily find any others that i could trust. or that i had gear for - had i been climbing on my rack i wouldn't have had the gear to get those two.

And I was looking for another and then i gave up and clipped the bolts. I think that they should stay as climbers of my ability are likely to have run out of gear and then not have the experience to find suitable placements at the top on what gear they have left.

Could we look into camouflage though? as they are flippin ugly!

There's my 2 pennies worth. x

olbert

18-Aug-2009
3:35:48 PM

On 18/08/2009 Sarah Gara wrote:
>There's my 2 pennies worth. x
I dont understand...there was no name calling, CAPITAL LETTERS, obsene language, or angry retorts.


..::- Chris -::..

18-Aug-2009
3:39:06 PM

Nice..... Fair..... Honest.....

Nice work on the lead... Thanks for the report...

egosan

18-Aug-2009
4:39:25 PM

Before I add my two pennies of bile and vinegar to this discussion, I should mention the
nice things. The Dribble is a fine climb. It is a direct and pleasing line right up the right
side of Tiger Wall. Simey did a great job cleaning it. So fine in fact I don't really
understand the comments about manky rock. The weather was fine, the climbing
satisfying and the lunch shared with Sarah at the top one of my most memorable. I was
very confident in all the gear I placed. More importantly, I was very impressed by the
quality of Sarah's placements and judgement.

Seconding the third pitch was lovely. Just the chance to bumble along for 50m is great, but
to do it in that place on that rock and in that company even better. Naturally after all the
kurfuffle in this thread, I was looking for those bolts as I pulled on to the belay ledge. I
didn't have to look hard. I share robersonya's cringe. They are great big 1/2in. bolts
pinning enormous bright yellow plates to the dusty sandstone wall. I thought of Henry
Barber describing how bolts "diminish the experience" and I agree. As Sarah mentioned
above, I looked at her natural anchors and was satisfied even if she wasn't. I certainly
would not need or want the bolts. There is enough natural gear for me to make an anchor I
would be confident of.

I must however defer to Sarah's experience and judgement. She was the one leading near
her best onsight. She sees how novice climbers might find that belay troublesome.
Though I don't really like it. In fact my urge is to tell them to take a couple teaspoons of
cement and harden the fvck up. To read the route description which mentions taking
plenty of medium nuts and clearly a 50m pitch is going to take more gear than the 15m
single pitch introductory routes that sprinkle the smaller buttresses that many people
might have their first lead on. However, simey did not spend all that effort cleaning that
route up for me. He did do it for climbers like Sarah. A climber I just met who was at the
Arapiles for the first time mentioned that one of the things that makes the crag so special
is that is does have a great variety of grades for climbers of all grades.

I am happy we are having this spew here at chockstone. We should be keeping pressure
on people to bolt responsibly. I had the chance to meet Simey for the first time. He was
the first to say that if you place a bolt you better be able to answer for it. I believe he did
right in placing fixed gear at that belay. Our responsibility in placing fixed gear does not
end with a valid justification citing safety or usage. We must ensure that these permanent
changes make the minimum aesthetic impact on the route. As such I think a couple glue
in carrots or some epoxy and rock dust camouflaged ring bolts would have been the better
choice.

In saying so, I better be able to walk the talk. As such, I will be happy to fund and assist
in cleaning up that belay on the Dribble.

Cheers,
Sol


mattjr

18-Aug-2009
9:09:22 PM

It's refreshing to have someone put some thought into what they post on this sight. Keep it coming Sol.

Fish Boy

19-Aug-2009
8:55:46 AM

On 18/08/2009 mattjr wrote:
>It's refreshing to have someone put some thought into what they post on
>this sight. Keep it coming Sol.

Site

simey

19-Aug-2009
9:13:53 AM

Thanks for the feedback Sarah and Sol. I really appreciate it. I will definitely make an effort then to camouflage the bolts, but it might not be any time soon as I have a cafe to set up first. Look forward to catching up with you guys down the track.


mattjr

19-Aug-2009
2:27:01 PM

On 19/08/2009 Fish Boy wrote:
>On 18/08/2009 mattjr wrote:
>>It's refreshing to have someone put some thought into what they post
>on
>>this sight. Keep it coming Sol.
>
>Site

Good to see you are also putting some thought into your posts fishy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Fish Boy

19-Aug-2009
4:23:31 PM

;)


Sarah Gara

19-Aug-2009
5:07:52 PM

On 19/08/2009 simey wrote:
, but it might not be any time
>soon as I have a cafe to set up first.

Ahhh... the cafe. I've only been here a month and even i know that's been in the pipe line for a while..

Looking forward to it. Was nice to meet you. Thanks for your hospitality. x

simey

19-Aug-2009
7:53:45 PM

On 19/08/2009 Sarah Gara wrote:
>Ahhh... the cafe. I've only been here a month and even i know that's been in the pipe line for a while..

Yeah well, the hedonistic Natimuk lifestyle often interupts the best laid plans.


Chuck Norris

19-Aug-2009
10:39:02 PM

On 16/08/2009 hero wrote:
>Nice to have you back Stugang.
>
>Is that a spade?

Yes. Though it feels a bit hollow as I don't think I could ever top the first.

By the way...sorry that I am not yet 40, otherwise I'd help out with the grandpa's climbing reunion. $100
must get you and Eduardo a helluvalot of Digestive biscuits.

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