Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

DMM: DMM "Bug". (Assorted Anodised colours. Grey pictured...) Great all-rounder with exceptional friction. IMO) NB NEW lighter model.   $22.00
27% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
Author
Bottom Feeders...
One Day Hero
24/07/2009
11:34:19 PM
"You wanna hang out with Neil?"

'Nah, I don't climb routes with Neil'

"Why not? You jewish?"

'Neil's a bossy individual. I don't tie in with someone who doesn't have the sense to realise organising climbers is like herding cats'

"What about Mitch?"

'I don't tie in with Mitch either'

"Yeah, but do you consider Mitch to be a Bossy individual?"

'He's definitely pushy, but Mitch has personality. Personality goes a long way'

"So by that rationale, if Neil had more personality he'd cease to be a bossy individual?"

'Well............we'd have to be talking about one charming motherf---ing Neil! He'd have to be ten times more charming than that Dalai on Chockstone'





apologies to Quentin........and Neil and Mitch, I don't actually think about you guys this way. Something written in this thread gave me the idea and a giggle. Thought I'd share :)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
24/07/2009
11:46:00 PM
>apologies to Quentin........and Neil and Mitch, I don't actually think about you guys this way. Something written in this thread gave me the idea and a giggle. Thought I'd share :)

I can see the humour (always good to have some humour), but think you left out one name off your apology list ...
kraut_named_ulf
27/12/2012
10:46:46 AM
Hi, I had some fun to follow this thread, since
i'm the kraut named Ulf that made a first free accent
of the route named "Einstuerzende Neubauten" in september 1988.
My handwriting was and is not the best, the "r"
switched to "v" and some happend with "e" to "c"
and "n" to "h", but I have no clue what happend to the
"u". It is a influential german punk band.


Allthough it is almost 25 years ago i try to write
what is left in my memory.

The original route started with a boulder problem protected with
the first bolt preclipped with a stick. The main point was to
move with a big chisseled hold to some small ledge. I would say
this was the crux move. Then it followed the logical line
straight up tending slightly left towards the top, where i put
some anchor. By that time i found that route pumpy and there was
one passage that was almost as hard as the start (possibly close
the the third bolt?).

In retroperspective i would say the grading might have been 28,
since I spent quite a while untill the first free ascent. I did
climb occasionally that hard by that time, later i did even climb
much harder, and now beeing older i'm less ambitiuos.

In 1988 there had been many chisseled or enhanced holds in the
centential glen area, almost all of them had been small 2-3
finger pockets. In my route i broke that tradition and made
a "big" artifical hold. The debate whether manipulating rock is
legitimately or not, was by that time not really considered a
point in the climbing ethic. For me a main point was not to
steal future generations the possibility to free climb the route
without manipulations. The crucial hold i made was obviously non
enhanced. Since it was so close to the ground it actually caused
as far as i was told problems with the rangers, who became
because of my work aware that climbers do manipulate rock. Since
i was on my way home i can't tell much about that dispute, but i
expect that this caused the filling of the hold.
TonyH
28/12/2012
11:02:34 AM
On 27/12/2012 kraut_named_ulf wrote:
>Hi, I had some fun to follow this thread, since
>i'm the kraut named Ulf that made a first free accent
>of the route named "Einstuerzende Neubauten" in september 1988.
>My handwriting was and is not the best, the "r"
>switched to "v" and some happend with "e" to "c"
>and "n" to "h", but I have no clue what happend to the
>"u". It is a influential german punk band.
>
>
>Allthough it is almost 25 years ago i try to write
>what is left in my memory.
>
>The original route started with a boulder problem protected with
>the first bolt preclipped with a stick. The main point was to
>move with a big chisseled hold to some small ledge. I would say
>this was the crux move. Then it followed the logical line
>straight up tending slightly left towards the top, where i put
>some anchor. By that time i found that route pumpy and there was
>one passage that was almost as hard as the start (possibly close
>the the third bolt?).
>
>In retroperspective i would say the grading might have been 28,
>since I spent quite a while untill the first free ascent. I did
>climb occasionally that hard by that time, later i did even climb
>much harder, and now beeing older i'm less ambitiuos.
>
>In 1988 there had been many chisseled or enhanced holds in the
>centential glen area, almost all of them had been small 2-3
>finger pockets. In my route i broke that tradition and made
>a "big" artifical hold. The debate whether manipulating rock is
>legitimately or not, was by that time not really considered a
>point in the climbing ethic. For me a main point was not to
>steal future generations the possibility to free climb the route
>without manipulations. The crucial hold i made was obviously non
>enhanced. Since it was so close to the ground it actually caused
>as far as i was told problems with the rangers, who became
>because of my work aware that climbers do manipulate rock. Since
>i was on my way home i can't tell much about that dispute, but i
>expect that this caused the filling of the hold.

Solid gold Ulf. Good on you.

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
There are 44 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints