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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
Author
Bottom Feeders...
widewetandslippery
20-Jul-2009
8:50:00 AM
I'm pretty sure Geoffs first ascent was the first ascent after the chips had been filled. The route was originally chipped, climbed and named by a kraut called Ulf.

BundyBear
20-Jul-2009
11:08:44 AM
There is still a chip on HSJ near the last bolt.
widewetandslippery
20-Jul-2009
11:37:06 AM
Ulf was just in with the local cutting edge of the day.....
widewetandslippery
20-Jul-2009
1:43:53 PM
Wingello why did you delete your post?

As much as I would like to chortle over re chipping in my experiennce it is done as badly as "fixing" chips. Queens Park?"

My cherished Cheesedale has suffered so as well but to much greater extent.

They are all different problems now. Kocking a few crystals and banging a jug are a difference. Plugging some epoxy or cement a differing more.

PS I always carry a screw driver.

WP steal a route of mine and I will kill you.

If you remove old space junk of mine, its yours. Thanks for cleaning up my mess. Just leave enough junk for the next over/zealous twit to go have a look.

Sonic
20-Jul-2009
9:14:54 PM
On 20/07/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>ACA description "Batman to first bolt past repaired chips then directly
>up to finish as for HSJ."
>
>I presume 'repaired' = 'filled in'. So the full project is still open!

Back on topic and yes the chips are filled in Neil.

Also, on further research I have found that the original description for Einstuevzende Neubatch in the earlier SRC guide says that the climb is a batman start, then aid past a really hard section, then traverses off right after 4th bolt, through jugs to anchor. Therefore, by this description the route finished at the Back Hand Tosser anchor, NOT as for Hip Shake Jerk. Therefore, in my opinion, the ACA description that has only sprung up a few days ago for Einstuevzende Neubatch is incorrect and the line we are climbing is a new link-up and if we can free the aid, which we intend to do, then it is a new route altogether.

By my reckoning, that makes all earlier comments about the project being open void. Or are now going to claim that the SRC guidebook has been wrong all this time and one infamous climber's word is right?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
21-Jul-2009
10:34:17 AM
On 20/07/2009 Sonic wrote:
>Also, on further research I have found that the original description for
>Einstuevzende Neubatch in the earlier SRC guide says (snip)

>and the line we are climbing is a new link-up and if we can free the aid, which we intend to do, then it is a new route altogether.
>
>By my reckoning, that makes all earlier comments about the project being open void.

If you did not know this information earlier then that begs the question of, 'perhaps the tagging of the route was not appropriate', at the time?
Depending on the information about the route known to mjw this further muddies the issues of their ascent(?), but not the removal of said tag.

It seems easier to me to have a completely independent line. I sympathise with guidebook authors trying to verify/sort these things out.
The melting pot of possibilities and personalities makes it an interesting game that climbers play!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
21-Jul-2009
2:24:08 PM
On 21/07/2009 Wingello Panther wrote:
>its not a new route if U free the aid. it is an old route now freed or
>in your case a portion of old route now freed.
>mebe thats what the 1st mob meant when they called it an open proj.

I agree with the (selective) quote above.

Not weird. Just historical interpretation if I recall correctly.
(You still made a valid point. ☻)

adztcc
21-Jul-2009
3:32:15 PM
Well it’s been very interesting reading everyone’s thoughts.

The vague description in Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains does describe a different finish to the route. The line I rebolted goes left at the 4th bolt up into Hip Shake Jerk and the start If you batman to the first bolt and pull on to the obvious holds it could go a lot harder than 26 maybe 28? If you pull on the second bolt then climb up and over the bulge that feels 26...It could be that I’m just weak or Geoff is really strong?...It seems that this route has a very confusing mixed history.

I’m not too concerned with FFA's or who and what style it was climbed or what grade it is.

What I’m pissed off about is that this climber (if you can call him that) walks (grovels) around the crags doing what he likes. His behaviour is unacceptable and is in poor form! He is a bad example for future generations of climbers.

And you don’t take a tag off a route without an obvious reason which there isn't.

kp
21-Jul-2009
4:00:38 PM
As a mexican, i feel it's my duty to go into bat for Mitch.
This seems more like an attack on mitch rather than his actions. He took the tape off the bolt.... um not a huge deal. .

Mitch has done alot of good work in NSW. The rebolting and track work he has done is pretty impressive and not appreciated. It's unfortunate that mitch steps on so many peoples toes, as he really doesn't deserve the bad rap he gets.

nmonteith
21-Jul-2009
5:04:45 PM
Mitch and I have had our disagreements over the years - BUT he is the opposite of a bottom feeder. A bottom feeder just clips someone elses bolts, craps in the woods, trashes the base of the cliff, lets their dog loose, throws their rubbish onto the ground and drives home. Mitch spends his time cleaning up after bottom feeders. He has done a hell of a lot to make climbing safer and more pleasant in NSW. Whilst I don't agree with what he (allegedly) has done in this incident - he generally does great things for the community.
One Day Hero
22-Jul-2009
10:54:13 AM
On 21/07/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>A bottom feeder just clips someone elses bolts, craps
>in the woods, trashes the base of the cliff, lets their dog loose, throws
>their rubbish onto the ground and drives home.

Some true colours showing here. I'm not real impressed with the routebolting elite attitude on display. Does bolting the odd nonline give you the ability to float gently above the track, avoiding "trashing the base of the cliff"? Do you shit in a bag at thommo's and carry it out?
99% of climbers at the crag fit a chunk of your bottom feeder definition, so from the sludgy depths I'd like to extend a big warm f--- you to our drill owning superiors.

nmonteith
22-Jul-2009
11:04:42 AM
On 22/07/2009 One Day Hero wrote:
>Some true colours showing here. I'm not real impressed with the routebolting
>elite attitude on display. Does bolting the odd nonline give you the ability
>to float gently above the track, avoiding "trashing the base of the cliff"?
>Do you shit in a bag at thommo's and carry it out?
>99% of climbers at the crag fit a chunk of your bottom feeder definition,
>so from the sludgy depths I'd like to extend a big warm f--- you to our
>drill owning superiors.

It's not all about bolting. Mitch (and other rebolters) clean up others peoples shit (literally), removes their rubbish, rebuild tracks, install poles to stop erosion etc. Cliffcare is not just about drills and egos. You probably just haven't realized how much good work is being done though...
widewetandslippery
22-Jul-2009
11:19:15 AM

If a route is tagged it may be unsafe for some reason ie. a dicky bolt/glue or a massive block ready to kill. I always sabbotage my projects this way.
dalai
22-Jul-2009
11:45:20 AM
On 22/07/2009 widewetandslippery wrote:
>
>If a route is tagged it may be unsafe for some reason ie. a dicky bolt/glue
>or a massive block ready to kill. I always sabbotage my projects this way.

I find padlocking either a truck tyre or pots and pans to the bolts does the trick...

evanbb
22-Jul-2009
11:49:36 AM
On 22/07/2009 dalai wrote:
>On 22/07/2009 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>
>>If a route is tagged it may be unsafe for some reason ie. a dicky bolt/glue
>>or a massive block ready to kill. I always sabbotage my projects this
>way.
>
>I find padlocking either a truck tyre or pots and pans to the bolts does
>the trick...

Oh, that's excellent.
dalai
22-Jul-2009
3:34:41 PM
On 22/07/2009 evanbb wrote:
>Oh, that's excellent.

It has been an effective deterrent in the past ;-)

dougy
23-Jul-2009
8:38:13 AM

all day bottom feeder, i think id be as pissed off as you if i had to crawl around from crag to crag with
such a big chip on my shoulder!.
Fish Boy
23-Jul-2009
10:33:48 AM
I'm a bottom feeder and proud of it.
One Day Hero
24-Jul-2009
12:04:48 AM
On 22/07/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>You probably just haven't realized how much good work is being done though...

I'm aware of good work being done, just that I don't believe any amount of volunteer work buys someone the title of cragboss.

In the Blueys, the blanket retro ringbolting is clearly leading to increased popularity which leads to increased erosion etc......and then the same people who sanitise the climbing complain about the damage being done by the hordes which inevitably arrive. You can't have it both ways
helene
24-Jul-2009
12:11:21 AM
i agree with kp, mitch is a good mate of mine who has done a whole lot for the climbing community, sure not every one agrees with his opinions and ethics etcetc, but when it comes down to it whether or not u agree with what he is doing you gotta admit that his passion for the climbing lifestyle is second to none.
he is committed. doing a heap of work for the community in the way that he sees fit.

we have a sport/ life style which is not governed by rules and regulations (i reckon not many of us could hack it if it was) the only way to move within its paramaters is the way which you believe is the right way. unfortunatly this can be a little problematic sometimes.

mitch has made me feel angry/ annoyed in the past, but also relieved when i clip one of his many bolts. i also find his opinions funny and a little harsh sometimes but whatever, i respect his committment and enjoy his company. mitch did what he thought was right, he is an outspoken opinionated character but far from a bottomfeeder. i reckon some hasty opinions have been formed by both parties here.lol!!

we live in the Bluies.... sorry adam, your a mate and i hope that i dont offend you to much,( i will make it up 2 u if i do!) but that route you rebolted is a chipped pile on one of the cruddyest peices of rock around! lol!! if you want i can show you an awesome wall with some of the best rock around so you can forge a line that has not been cemented and climbed some old dino!!
(sorry geoff) dude, projects are awesome, but save the bitterness for when someone tries to steel a line that you found then hand picked the best possible sequence/solution, and basically painted it as an expression of your climbing prowess!!

forget the tape and check out the bird cage!!
vince

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There are 44 messages in this topic.

 

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