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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
On 22/07/2009 evanbb wrote:
>Oh, that's excellent.
It has been an effective deterrent in the past ;-)
all day bottom feeder, i think id be as pissed off as you if i had to crawl around from crag to crag with
such a big chip on my shoulder!.
I'm a bottom feeder and proud of it.
On 22/07/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>You probably just haven't realized how much good work is being done though...
I'm aware of good work being done, just that I don't believe any amount of volunteer work buys someone the title of cragboss.
In the Blueys, the blanket retro ringbolting is clearly leading to increased popularity which leads to increased erosion etc......and then the same people who sanitise the climbing complain about the damage being done by the hordes which inevitably arrive. You can't have it both ways
i agree with kp, mitch is a good mate of mine who has done a whole lot for the climbing community, sure not every one agrees with his opinions and ethics etcetc, but when it comes down to it whether or not u agree with what he is doing you gotta admit that his passion for the climbing lifestyle is second to none. he is committed. doing a heap of work for the community in the way that he sees fit. we have a sport/ life style which is not governed by rules and regulations (i reckon not many of us could hack it if it was) the only way to move within its paramaters is the way which you believe is the right way. unfortunatly this can be a little problematic sometimes. mitch has made me feel angry/ annoyed in the past, but also relieved when i clip one of his many bolts. i also find his opinions funny and a little harsh sometimes but whatever, i respect his committment and enjoy his company. mitch did what he thought was right, he is an outspoken opinionated character but far from a bottomfeeder. i reckon some hasty opinions have been formed by both parties here.lol!! we live in the Bluies.... sorry adam, your a mate and i hope that i dont offend you to much,( i will make it up 2 u if i do!) but that route you rebolted is a chipped pile on one of the cruddyest peices of rock around! lol!! if you want i can show you an awesome wall with some of the best rock around so you can forge a line that has not been cemented and climbed some old dino!! (sorry geoff) dude, projects are awesome, but save the bitterness for when someone tries to steel a line that you found then hand picked the best possible sequence/solution, and basically painted it as an expression of your climbing prowess!!
forget the tape and check out the bird cage!!
"You wanna hang out with Neil?"
'Nah, I don't climb routes with Neil'
"Why not? You jewish?"
'Neil's a bossy individual. I don't tie in with someone who doesn't have the sense to realise organising climbers is like herding cats'
"What about Mitch?"
'I don't tie in with Mitch either'
"Yeah, but do you consider Mitch to be a Bossy individual?"
'He's definitely pushy, but Mitch has personality. Personality goes a long way'
"So by that rationale, if Neil had more personality he'd cease to be a bossy individual?"
'Well............we'd have to be talking about one charming motherf---ing Neil! He'd have to be ten times more charming than that Dalai on Chockstone'
apologies to Quentin........and Neil and Mitch, I don't actually think about you guys this way. Something written in this thread gave me the idea and a giggle. Thought I'd share :)
>apologies to Quentin........and Neil and Mitch, I don't actually think about you guys this way. Something written in this thread gave me the idea and a giggle. Thought I'd share :)
I can see the humour (always good to have some humour), but think you left out one name off your apology list ...
Hi, I had some fun to follow this thread, since
i'm the kraut named Ulf that made a first free accent
of the route named "Einstuerzende Neubauten" in september 1988.
My handwriting was and is not the best, the "r"
switched to "v" and some happend with "e" to "c"
and "n" to "h", but I have no clue what happend to the
"u". It is a influential german punk band.
Allthough it is almost 25 years ago i try to write
what is left in my memory.
The original route started with a boulder problem protected with
the first bolt preclipped with a stick. The main point was to
move with a big chisseled hold to some small ledge. I would say
this was the crux move. Then it followed the logical line
straight up tending slightly left towards the top, where i put
some anchor. By that time i found that route pumpy and there was
one passage that was almost as hard as the start (possibly close
the the third bolt?).
In retroperspective i would say the grading might have been 28,
since I spent quite a while untill the first free ascent. I did
climb occasionally that hard by that time, later i did even climb
much harder, and now beeing older i'm less ambitiuos.
In 1988 there had been many chisseled or enhanced holds in the
centential glen area, almost all of them had been small 2-3
finger pockets. In my route i broke that tradition and made
a "big" artifical hold. The debate whether manipulating rock is
legitimately or not, was by that time not really considered a
point in the climbing ethic. For me a main point was not to
steal future generations the possibility to free climb the route
without manipulations. The crucial hold i made was obviously non
enhanced. Since it was so close to the ground it actually caused
as far as i was told problems with the rangers, who became
because of my work aware that climbers do manipulate rock. Since
i was on my way home i can't tell much about that dispute, but i
expect that this caused the filling of the hold.
Solid gold Ulf. Good on you.
There are 49 messages in this topic.
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