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WARNING: 169 kg breaking strength lower offs.


nmonteith

11-Mar-2009
7:53:50 PM

On 11/03/2009 Hawkman wrote:
>These are the style I had Neil
>
>

Phew! I just couldn't remember. My poor engineering logic would have thought that the ones that were
just bent around were dodgy - not vice versa! I'm really glad the numerous ones I haver placed over the
years from Steve's shop are bomber.


nmonteith

11-Mar-2009
11:17:32 PM

I just checked my 'bolting museum' collection - and my example of one of these wire gate clip-and-go anchors appears to be the bad version - which means that at some point in the past I have bought these and used these. I have no idea from where I got them? I've certainly placed a handful as single lower-offs threaded through a single large u-bolt in the Grampians - and possibly even in the Bluies.


HM33

11-Mar-2009
11:59:37 PM

there could be a number out there. reminded me of this thread with a similar incident of an 8mm version:

http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=6&action=view&uid=1323#1323

perhaps that style should be removed entirely as it seems the cast variety are about which may look fine but obviously are not. just looking at my records ive only had 30 quick clips in the last 3 years so not big numbers.


rodw

12-Mar-2009
8:33:24 AM

devlin66

12-Mar-2009
9:54:20 AM

I am thinking out load here. Maybe those of us that get about a bit can grab a handful of the bent biners and replace the cast ones when we see them. Just as a matter of doing things properley. I know two cast ones should be good and a single may even last if it's not loaded over an edge but if people see only the bent ones they may be inclined to get them out of subconciously remembering them. Fostering good habits. I know here north of the border there are quite a few dodgy biners etc. that could be replaced. I am going to buy a stock of them and carry a couple to replace them when I see them.


rodw

12-Mar-2009
10:11:52 AM

Stevo what style is on VM at Mt K?


HM33

12-Mar-2009
10:27:02 AM

None, weren't they stolen?

I can't remember to be honest.

gfdonc

12-Mar-2009
11:39:00 AM

Is it worth posting a warning sheet up in the gyms?

mikl law

12-Mar-2009
12:07:58 PM

BAD

BAD
No strength rating, the retaining loop is continuous

Good

The retaining loop is not fused/moulded/welded to the spine of the biner

devlin66

12-Mar-2009
2:00:18 PM

On 12/03/2009 gfdonc wrote:
>Is it worth posting a warning sheet up in the gyms?

I think that's a good call. Also telling peopel you see about them so they can make up their own minds when they see them and maybe report what they see as well. It's not panic stations but maybe we should get rid of them.

davereeve

12-Mar-2009
8:08:32 PM

I've got four of these......

Ah crap: You're right Mikl they are cast. The mould flash is still visible on the inner surface. Shame, they look very cool. Cool weld I thought...ah crap.

Ah crap: Sorry Stephen, but they definitely came from Climbing Anchors some time early this year. I'll be chasing you for some Fixe's

Ah crap: I've installed two on Prickles at KP.... at least its a pair, but they'll have to go

dave

12-Mar-2009
10:03:21 PM

Am I missing something here? Are these biners even designed for climbing? Who makes them? how come its only just come to light that they're no good?

Also why make the eye like this? Seems like a lot of pointless effort for the manufacturer. Isn't the eye only there to stop people knicking them?


Cranky

13-Mar-2009
10:38:36 AM

On 11/03/2009 psd wrote:
>Don't know if the same necessarily but I thought there was a pair of something
>similar at the top of Mental Fatigue and Looks Poxable at Berowra last
>time I was out there?

Yes, there is a pair of the 'bad' biners at the top of Mental Fatigue at Berowra. They are beside (about 6 inches away) a single ring plus hook style lower off.
The mallions can be unscrewed (I assume) to remove the 'bad' biners, then left in place to thread a rope through.
I can do this next week if everyone is happy for me to do it.

mikl law

14-Mar-2009
12:06:15 AM

A pair above the 20 on the left side,min wall Bowen's creek. No cracks
A pair on 97% fat free, no cracks

mikl law

16-Mar-2009
1:02:30 PM

It would be good to remove them.
If the Maillons are left, the rope will proabably twist badly through them. This will happen if the Maillons aren't set at 90 degrees to the rock, if they lie against the the rock they will twist the rope
You could leave a pair of biners on the maillons attached with small hose clamps.

gfdonc

16-Mar-2009
1:20:17 PM

OK crew with the aid of Mikl's pics and my typing we now have a warning sheet.

Download from
http://staff.data.com.au/stoal/gear/safetywarning.doc (810k)

It looks like this.

In Vic, I can cover Cliffhanger. Can anyone else (Will) cover the two Hardrock gyms?


Macciza

16-Mar-2009
11:13:22 PM

On 16/03/2009 gfdonc wrote:
>OK crew with the aid of Mikl's pics and my typing we now have a warning
>sheet.
>
>Download from
> http://staff.data.com.au/stoal/gear/safetywarning.doc (810k)
>
Or a slightly smaller pdf (150k) from here . . .
Cheers

TonyB

17-Mar-2009
7:36:13 AM

There's an interesting thread posted on qurank a few days ago about a biner that snapped. "Biner busting fun at Coolum"
No indication of what caused it.


tnd

17-Mar-2009
8:48:56 AM

These spring clips are also reported to be on Junket Pumper and Hot Flyer.

17-Mar-2009
9:58:45 AM

On 16/03/2009 gfdonc wrote:
>OK crew with the aid of Mikl's pics and my typing we now have a warning
>sheet.

>In Vic, I can cover Cliffhanger. Can anyone else (Will) cover the two
>Hardrock gyms?

Nunawading yes - but only if you credit my pic (the close-up) to me! :)

There are 173 messages in this topic.