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THE AUSTRALIAN RETRO/RE-BOLTING OPEN FORUM |
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20-Apr-2004 11:53:10 AM
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Rupy, and
Simon Parsons
IN the same league but not pushing the free climbing grades quite as high:
John Fantini, Vera Wong, Abby Watkins, Greg Child, John Muir, Andrew McCauley,
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20-Apr-2004 12:00:16 PM
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Parsons has climbed up to 30 - definitely in that league. Lindblade has climbed up to grade 31!
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20-Apr-2004 12:32:49 PM
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of course... don't know why I missed those.
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20-Apr-2004 12:35:30 PM
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Greg Child has climbed grade 29/30 routes plus numerous himalyan 8000m and big wall routes.
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20-Apr-2004 6:05:17 PM
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Stop ranting & start chanting !!!
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21-Apr-2004 12:08:30 PM
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On 19/04/2004 hex-TROLL wrote:
> The Ewbank system takes into consideration THE DIFFICULTY OF THE TECHNICAL
>CRUX OF A CLIMB ; A 30m ,grade 23 with bolts every metre is 'the same'
>as a 30m, grade 23 requiring tricky route-finding & well-spaced RP placements.
>
>
> It is that ' sameness ' which drives the retro-bolting pressure, ( mainly
>from the 'sport' faction ), as they try to rationalise/deny their 'reality'
>of " Why can I send 27 on 'draws and yet freak-out approaching 22 ,when
>I have to start ' thinking ' about all those other ' considerations ' ...stuff
>it !!!--- just whack a few more bolts in ,so more(ons) people can 'enjoy'
>the climb."
Yank 'chillin like a villian ' Cranker : ' 26 sport & 18 trad '
gfdonc : ' Spread of grades ; what does everyone else think ? '
Excessive bolt-dependency might have something to do with it...
Maybe ' The Ho ' is a good 'high-profile' example :
Re : Mt Buff' : BA ,16/03/04 : '...apparently Nathan Hoette...got spanked left, right and centre...'
Neilmont : ' Lets just say Mr nathan didn't want to try the sharp-end after his attempts on a [trad ?] route at least 12 grades under his limit managed to spank him ! '
Luv,HEX.
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22-Apr-2004 8:51:57 AM
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No shame in being spanked, by any climb... isn't the idea to back off if you can't do a route, to live to climb another day? So what if he can't climb trad as well as sport, it doesn't make him any less of a person (I don't know him personally btw)...
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22-Apr-2004 11:14:29 AM
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I've got one for you Hex.....Cape Raoul (Tasmania) & the recent new routes..... quote from the FFA-ionist....
"...The bolts, with the odd natural piece, seemed to be falling at about the right spacing for free-climbing...."
"...we abseiled off & climbed it again to tick the free lead...."
".... On the final rap I added 3 more bolts. Why have a few cams mar an otherwise perfect route??"
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22-Apr-2004 11:35:11 AM
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'Why' , indeed !!! --- might just be the Kiwi? ' inferiority/otherwise perfect complex ' at it again...
A similar ' Euro-inspired-philosophy ' was applied to Saphire Rose @ Fingal in the mid 1990s, when other 'members' of this faction were convinced that wigglies would be on NO-ONES climbing rack by the year 2000...
Luv, HEX
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23-Apr-2004 12:24:35 PM
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And further more , in regard to ' creative ' Tasmanian/ex-Kiwi climbers :
' I would also be more impressed if some of the creationists running around at the moment had solid trad climbing experience before they moved on to banging bolts in '
(Kieran ,22/04/04 )
Luv,HEX.
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24-Apr-2004 10:21:11 PM
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Hex, sweetie,
I did not make that comment on this thread. Please, if you are going to qoute me make the origin of the quote clear. I will forgive you all for another night of passion.
love and kisses
kieran
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27-Apr-2004 10:02:58 AM
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On 22/04/2004 Wonderdog wrote:
>No shame in being spanked, by any climb... isn't the idea to back off if
>you can't do a route, to live to climb another day? So what if he can't
>climb trad as well as sport, it doesn't make him any less of a person (I
>don't know him personally btw)...
You can't be serious... surely...
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27-Apr-2004 4:53:41 PM
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At least you didn't call me surley...
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27-Apr-2004 5:56:33 PM
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Yeah we know it's crap ; but somewhere in the peanut-butter there is hidden a big, juicy turd of enlightenment...
Now listen up every-one : THINK : otherwise '...your brain gets tired of working out the sequences , stringing combinations together---like a world-class chess player... '
(HB look-a-like,Ron Fawcett , ' 87)
Luv ya'al,HEX.
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27-Apr-2004 10:11:42 PM
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I totally agree. Probably won't stop Hex though.
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28-Apr-2004 9:46:42 AM
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Ahhhh---the cauldron fumes are wafting everywhere !-- even Mikl wants to start one !
Luv HEX
Monkpunz not a sport-climb ?!---yeah , right.
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28-Apr-2004 11:48:58 AM
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On 27/04/2004 Wonderdog wrote:
>At least you didn't call me surley...
I never would ,bro---your contributions to important issues are better than most.
Luv, HEX
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28-Apr-2004 1:59:08 PM
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On 6/02/2004 BA wrote:
>Hex TROLL seems a lot like a Greg Pritchard nom de guerre to me. Dulux,
>Angel Black, Hero Fukutu and now Hex Troll? Note the play with the word
>hex - a piece of climbing equipment and a spell cast by a witch (warlock
>or whatever). Hex's (whoever he/she is) posts have got the cauldron boiling
>and that seems a typical Pritchard aim.
The ' cauldron ' has definitely created the much-needed shake-up that Australian climbing ' has to have ' : retro-bolting ; spreads of grades ; grading systems , etc,etc,etc
Thank you all for being part of something very special --- I am sure the crags will be the biggest winners...
The 500th member ? ; who will make it 3000 big ones ?...
Luvin' and lookin' from the mountain top, HEX...
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28-Apr-2004 2:07:08 PM
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OMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
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28-Apr-2004 2:12:43 PM
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Snigger !
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