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Keep outa my crack - Trad routes as projects?

widewetandslippery

29-Feb-2008
1:36:32 PM

Its always the way

As you are a man of the world what are the ethics in regard to red tagging women?

simey

29-Feb-2008
1:56:59 PM

On 29/02/2008 widewetandslippery wrote:
>As you are a man of the world what are the ethics in regard to red tagging women?

Well you could argue that all women are open projects, but like with climbing, there are quite a few where you won't stand a chance.

Dave J

29-Feb-2008
2:35:41 PM

On 29/02/2008 widewetandslippery wrote:
>As you are a man of the world what are the ethics in regard to red tagging women?

Like climbs....if you are putting bolts in purely to stake a claim you probably dont deserve them. But if
you've got your heart set on them....its nice of other people to take a step back and give you a chance
to work it out.

f_abe...I agree with you that if a line can be done purely on gear then that is something to aspire to. In
Adam's case the route could definitely have been done without bolts but I don't think the bolt is much
more unreasonable than, for example, the bolt on masada. That route ... (bolted in the 80s) has one
bolt a meter and a bit above a bomber friend placement 2/3rds of the way up the route so there would
be no chance of decking. There are definitely climbers around now who could do it just on gear but
should kim have left it for a future generation? At the atrocity end of the spectrum there is a line on
the pharos boulders that Jon Muir was trying to do as a boulder problem and then some visionary
came and stuck 2 bolts in it to create some worthless 26 in place of the next "Not the Height of
Fashion"... And if someone ever goes and puts bolts in "Agent of Cool" I will be horrified (even to the
point of taking action). But routes like Adam's and Masada are grey areas and no one ever attempted
them without bolts.

And just to be even handed in the dishing out of put downs
my least favourite bolt ever was placed by HB on Snake Flake (perhaps this is what you meant by
designer danger at taipan)
my second least favourite by claw "Purple Denotes Bruising"
and my 3rd least favourite was placed by me (I couldn't pull it out with my fingers so its a step up from
the other two but a shonky bolt none the less)


nmonteith

29-Feb-2008
3:59:42 PM

On 29/02/2008 f_abe wrote:
>(although if you want new routes check out the road between
>Millenium and Crystal Palace, feel free to claim them if you must;-)

So much rock - so much crap. I've done four trips up there trying to find anything worthwhile - still havn't been inspired. I've only bolted one pretty hard route (28?+) south of Crystal Palace right next to the road - too hard for me though. 1 minute walk in - 7 or 8 bolts from memory. Very blocky Rifle style climbing. I doubt that area will ever have much worthwhile in the way of new (good) routes.

chalkischeap

29-Feb-2008
4:36:21 PM

On 29/02/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>
>pretty hard route (28?+) south of Crystal Palace right next to the road
>- too hard for me though. 1 minute walk in - 7 or 8 bolts from memory.
>Very blocky Rifle style climbing.

talking my language Neil, how do I find it?

Is it any good? (life's too short for 1 star routes)


tmarsh

29-Feb-2008
5:33:50 PM

On 29/02/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>I've only bolted one
>pretty hard route (28?+) south of Crystal Palace right next to the road

I reckin I know the exact spot you're talking about Neileo. I had a big sniff around the Goat Track and the north end of the vic range road a while back. Lots of rock, but not a lot of good rock.


Chuck Norris

29-Feb-2008
10:17:06 PM

On 29/02/2008 Dave J wrote:

>I don't think the bolt is much
>more unreasonable than, for example, the bolt on masada. That route ...
>(bolted in the 80s) has one
>bolt a meter and a bit above a bomber friend placement 2/3rds of the way
>up the route so there would
>be no chance of decking.

In fairness to kimbo he placed a shitty 1/4inch stud. The friend was still needed to avoid decking
regardless of the bolt.


Imaclawfan

10-Mar-2015
7:39:48 PM

On 4/02/2008 prb wrote:
>Keep projects as quiet as possible and tick 'em as soon as you can. Hope
>for but never rely on the good faith of others, almost any project can
>be stolen at any time. Choose projects that are 1 or 2 grades above your
>limit, not 5 or 6. Use the possibility of someone else getting up it first
>as incentive to improve your climbing. If someone does, deal with the pain
>and accept it's his (do chicks steal routes?) reward for being a better
>climber. Vow it won't happen again. Try hard not to hold grudges...

Thanks for the advice ... I feel a bit better ...

Colin Haley has just made the first ascent of Torrosimo .... a 100 ft tower on the ridge at the base of Cerro Torre

http://www.pataclimb.com/images/climbingareas/chalten/torres/torre_SE_01.jpg

This was MY project ...

FAR CAN SPEWIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

X ()


IdratherbeclimbingM9

11-Mar-2015
9:15:14 AM

On 10/03/2015 Imaclawfan wrote:
>Colin Haley has just made the first ascent of Torrosimo .... a 100 ft
>tower on the ridge at the base of Cerro Torre
>
>http://www.pataclimb.com/images/climbingareas/chalten/torres/torre_SE_01.jpg
>
>This was MY project ...
>
>FAR CAN SPEWIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
>X ()
>
>
2007 till 2015...
Blerrie heck HexImaclawfan, how much time do ya need for ya projects?

... and what ever happened to mousey after accepting your dream climb invitation? It wasn't him who had to pick up the soap (aka ODH last post on that page), was it?

White Trash

11-Mar-2015
12:34:15 PM

who is (was?) hex?

grangrump

11-Mar-2015
1:18:15 PM

On 10/03/2015 Imaclawfan wrote:
... http://www.pataclimb.com/images/climbingareas/chalten/torres/torre_SE_01.jpg

That link includes: 13.1 Slovene Sit-Start link-up
I like the idea of a sit-start problem on Cerro Torre!


Imaclawfan

11-Mar-2015
5:06:00 PM

On 11/03/2015 grangrump wrote:
>I like the idea of a sit-start problem on Cerro Torre!

So do I...

But the REAL sit start is known as The Long Run... which goes over El Mocho ...

http://www.pataclimb.com/images/climbingareas/chalten/torres/torre_E.jpg

Queenslander Rob Starchefski gets credited with the first ascent of El Mocho , but he told me yeeeaaarrrssss ago that he and Jim Bridwell stopped at the top of the rock buttress and didnt go to the snowy summit cos they only had rock shoes on ...wimps ..

Here's a funky pic of Torisimo ... lookin cute at dawn ..

http://www.alpineinstitute.com/catalog/patagonia-trekking-and-climbing-fitzroy-and-cerro-torre-area/

.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

11-Mar-2015
8:35:26 PM

On 11/03/2015 Imaclawfan wrote:
>But the REAL sit start is known as The Long Run... which goes over El
>Mocho ...
>
>http://www.pataclimb.com/images/climbingareas/chalten/torres/torre_E.jpg
>
>Queenslander Rob Starchefski gets credited with the first ascent of El
>Mocho , but he told me yeeeaaarrrssss ago that he and Jim Bridwell stopped
>at the top of the rock buttress and didnt go to the snowy summit cos they
>only had rock shoes on ...wimps ..
>
You can always become an honorary Queenslander by doing a new route variant of the (likely harder) right hand arête on El Mocho...
~> This thread is titled trad routes as projects, so no compressors ok hexy?
Heh, heh, heh.

On 11/03/2015 White Trash wrote:
>who is (was?) hex?

Use the search function on left side of screen and type in hex... ~> It will turn up numerous, mostly good value, posts.
... He was a prolific poster to this site some time back, but managed to get himself 'disbaled' by the Mods along the way...
He re-incarnated as many other user id's after that (Hexy, Ghost, something to do with flowers, something to do with Honda motorbikes, M10iswhereitsat, etc...); though they too were 'disbaled' when it became evident that it was the same-
He had a fetish for climbing the Tote in Tassie, and Cerro Torre in Patagonia, ... but I don't know if either ever happened...
~> Provide photos Hex, or they remain as projects!
☺

martym

12-Mar-2015
3:28:31 PM

So in relation to the original thread concept - what about that film First Ascent & the Cobra Crack - two climbers climbing one after the other (though definitely not cooperatively) to claim the first ascent.
Was that somehow an "open project" different to what others have discussed?


Imaclawfan

12-Mar-2015
3:40:46 PM

Hang on a minute Marty ... I just gotta post this ...

On 11/03/2015 grangrump wrote:
>I like the idea of a sit-start problem on Cerro Torre!

Here's another dimension to the Long Sit Start ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qd0tuOZPdzY

This dude wingsuit base jumps from the top of a variant start to the Long Sit Start , ... with his girlfriends ashes packed inside his parachute ...


Imaclawfan

12-Mar-2015
5:10:11 PM

On 12/03/2015 martym wrote:
>So in relation to the original thread concept - what about that film First
>Ascent & the Cobra Crack - two climbers climbing one after the other (though
>definitely not cooperatively) to claim the first ascent.
>Was that somehow an "open project" different to what others have discussed?

No idea wot ur on or on about

BUT CHECK OUT THE AMAZING ' BIRD ' FINGER LOCK & THE DYNAMIC BELAY TAKEN BY THE SHEILA !!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhWvaQpJ7NM


Duang Daunk

13-Mar-2015
12:32:22 PM

Those are awesome vid links bro.

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