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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
Guess The Route

Stefan Karpiniec
9-Nov-2010
2:14:39 AM
OK, here's one from when the world was black and white:


evanbb
9-Nov-2010
7:45:46 AM
On 8/11/2010 pmonks wrote:
>The vertical trench right of "Me and My Shadow" at Firecat Walls whose
>name I don't remember off the top of my head?

Oh? it's no good? Cracking line. Hard to tell how wide it is from there though.

pmonks
9-Nov-2010
9:09:18 AM
On 9/11/2010 evanbb wrote:
>Oh? it's no good?

Sadly I'm showing my encyclopedic knowledge of the Wolgan Guide, rather than any direct experience with the climb. :-(

> Cracking line. Hard to tell how wide it is from there
>though.

The old (1984) guide says "The most inspiring line on the crag, too bad it's offwidth. Very exposed. Take large nuts(No, 9 hexes to 6 inch tubes)." I also recall seeing a photo of the FA with Joe Friend way up high, half buried in the corner, but it's not in the 1984 guide so I'm not sure where I would have seen it.
WM
9-Nov-2010
9:14:16 AM
On 9/11/2010 evanbb wrote:
>Oh? it's no good? Cracking line. Hard to tell how wide it is from there
>though.

I expect it'd be awesome despite being offwidth (anyone want to go do it?). For further perspective, the top 6m is a chimney
ithomas
9-Nov-2010
9:21:09 AM
I did it with Bryden Allen and Peter Giles quite some time ago! It is an excellent climb. Lots of bridging to help with the off-width experience. The only bummer was the steep walk directly up from the road. The cliff is well worth a visit.

Stefan Karpiniec
9-Nov-2010
9:48:54 AM
>
>The old (1984) guide says "The most inspiring line on the crag, too bad
>it's offwidth. Very exposed. Take large nuts(No, 9 hexes to 6 inch tubes)."
> I also recall seeing a photo of the FA with Joe Friend way up high, half
>buried in the corner, but it's not in the 1984 guide so I'm not sure where
>I would have seen it.

On the back cover of the even older 1975 (I think) guide!
widewetandslippery
9-Nov-2010
10:11:44 AM
I've gone that way, I think its the way described in the Stevens guide. Very easy walk. Road was pretty shitty when I went there.

Superstu
9-Nov-2010
10:20:34 AM
On 9/11/2010 WM wrote:

>I expect it'd be awesome despite being offwidth (anyone want to go do
>it?).

As soon as my order for a full set of big bros arrive.

rodw
9-Nov-2010
11:06:45 AM
Ive done the walk but not the climbs at firecats...its very flat and pretty open bush too.....the road isnt great but not total rubbish...most cars can make it to the last hill about 1km from Sahara points car park..but any Outback or better would get there easily.

Its a good camping spot too....just make sure you pack you own water as none there.
ithomas
9-Nov-2010
1:15:17 PM
If only we knew that it could be approached from the top! Bloody Peter Giles left his camera at the base of the cliff and so we had to haul our way back up the hill the next day. I had previously climbed it with Keith Bell and we were keen to sucker Bryden onto it for a laugh. We had 2 tube chocks between us and so the upper section, above the small rooflet, had to be climbed with 2 pieces of protection at the most. Have a look at the picture again and consider the run-outs. Bryden climbed it so smoothly that the smiles were quickly wiped from our faces. Unlike our previous foul-mouthed, expostulation rich ascent, Bryden simply floated up with grace and good humour. A lesson for the pups.

GPS hadn't been invented then and I don't recall anybody ever having a map - it was 1975 and most maps were still inch to the mile from WW11 so the upper track/road may not have been marked or even existed at the time. A good find by Joe.

Stefan Karpiniec
9-Nov-2010
5:08:04 PM
OK, OK, I'll make it more obvious. Here's the next shot in the sequence, and yes, the gentleman seconding is wearing a red skivvy.

mikllaw
9-Nov-2010
5:13:53 PM
never been there but...
Incipience?

Stefan Karpiniec
9-Nov-2010
5:25:52 PM
But of course. Henry being hauled up the first pitch by Lyle, and then climbing in Tasmania was in colour! Thanks Henry.

Incipience

Pat
9-Nov-2010
6:45:06 PM
Looks can be very deceiving - its not called incipience for nothing!

pmonks
9-Nov-2010
6:52:28 PM
On 9/11/2010 WM wrote:
>There's a photo of the FA on page 68 of the 1984 guide.

That's the one, and here it is:


What a mighty line of power! It'd be up there with Andrew's Bulge at Banger if it lost the dodgy Yusuf Islam references!

White Trash
24-Aug-2011
11:58:04 PM
who has the next photo?
Olbert
25-Aug-2011
4:08:41 AM
On 24/08/2011 White Trash wrote:
>who has the next photo?
You?

pmonks
25-Aug-2011
4:25:54 AM
On 24/08/2011 White Trash wrote:
>who has the next photo?

Here you go:


(looking at the filename is cheating!)
Wendy
25-Aug-2011
7:42:50 AM
Tuolumne, Cathedral peak.

pmonks
25-Aug-2011
8:19:09 AM
On 25/08/2011 Wendy wrote:
>Tuolumne, Cathedral peak.

Yep that's it. The photo was taken July 16th - check out how much snow was still around!

Your turn!

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There are 1157 messages in this topic.

 

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