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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
mouseys magical land of nonsense

mousey
12-Feb-2008
6:33:46 PM
thats awesome, thanks for posting rod!


speaking of awesome, endless kilometres of fluffy waist-deep japanese pow through the trees and down pillow lines is pretty gosh darn good. only 6 more days of it unfortunately, -30 degrees is good fun too

billk
12-Feb-2008
6:43:08 PM
Ask 'em what they think about whaling : )

"Sumimasen ga chotto...." means they don't want to talk about it.
Duncan
12-Feb-2008
7:11:37 PM
On 12/02/2008 mousey wrote:
>thats awesome, thanks for posting rod!

Ahem.

mousey
12-Feb-2008
10:06:40 PM
dearie me, i do apologise mate- THANKS DUNCS!

D.Lodge
12-Feb-2008
10:07:18 PM
I have done that prob yes it is la helicoptre and i have done that fall a lot on 2 separate trips. Bit of a shock to watch that vid i land a lot harder than that when i fall

IdratherbeclimbingM9
13-Feb-2008
8:10:25 AM
Did you have a spotter?
Did the spotter do their job properly, or is a broken 'x' still possible?

... your post reads like it is largely a matter of (bad) luck to hurt oneself on it?
Stuey
13-Feb-2008
8:41:24 AM
I've done it too - Its just a bit of an uncontrolled fall depending on how badly you swing. The hold you hit is good but flat and when you hit it your legs swing out and often as you begin to reach horizontal the hand peels off. The guy on the vid is pretty unlucky as that fall was pretty good compared to some i've seen. That problem has many injury 'scalps' - Just before I did some Frenchie wandered up and told me he'd landed badly and broken his arm on it previously. Trick for me was to deliberately throw yourself rightwards and kick the wall to kill the swing.

D.Lodge
13-Feb-2008
12:14:50 PM
First couple of times no spotter but i always land on my feet :) then spotters helped but it is just the spin that does it hence the name helicopter. I watched one guy go into a sea of spotters bum first kinda bent in half so they definientley helped him the joy of a popular problem lots of extra hands to help.
dalai
13-Feb-2008
12:26:45 PM
Thanks for clarifying which problem it was. I thought L'Abattoir incorrectly... Which is the version I climbed. Fell off near the start then hit the top second time so didn't get a chance to test the landing ;-)

I found for the most part it not necessary to use a mat (didn't have one with me anyway) given the usually flat, sandy landings. And with so many classic problems, if the landing isn't ideal just move onto the next classic!

JimboV10
13-Feb-2008
4:08:09 PM
I know I'm probably gonna cop some flak for this one, but I personally thought Font was overrated.

Sure their are lots of great problems, but the area is getting so polished, and then problems just arent that great (not to mention contrived "It is only 7a if you climb ze problem with 3 fingers, in Anasazis and if you are under 6ft)... I've climbed better things in the Grampians. Personally areas like Rocklands are where its at. Font/Castle hill amount of boulders on prime Grampians like sandstone.. boo yah!

nmonteith
13-Feb-2008
4:35:51 PM
I thought Font was awesome - and i'm not even a boulderer of any worth. It's just a natural playground that doesn't require a guide or any sort of plan. I'll be Rocklanding it up in July.... can't wait!

JimboV10
13-Feb-2008
6:29:08 PM
Dude! When/where? Climbing? Need a spotter??

nmonteith
13-Feb-2008
6:41:33 PM
Fly in 2nd July Cape Town
Fly out 31st July J-Burg

Thats about all I have planned so far! Will have rope, rack, car and girlfriend. Plan to hit up as much as i can in the 4 weeks.
Duncan
13-Feb-2008
6:52:35 PM
I will be in Font in late March. I am psyched.

Sabu
13-Feb-2008
9:46:43 PM
On 13/02/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>Fly in 2nd July Cape Town
>Fly out 31st July J-Burg
>
>Thats about all I have planned so far! Will have rope, rack, car and girlfriend.
>Plan to hit up as much as i can in the 4 weeks.

Hope you have a sweet time, keep a sharp eye though!

nmonteith
13-Feb-2008
11:03:19 PM
I just read in the lonely planet that their road death toll is over 15,000 per year. Ekkk. They advise driving in the emergency lane if someone wants to overtake you. You'll know they want to overtake when they shoot out your rear tyres.

Sabu
13-Feb-2008
11:48:11 PM
Yea watch out for the taxi vans. they drive like lunatics on steroids. you'll recognise them cos they'll be overflowing with people and stopping suddenly to take more in!
oh yea and its worse now at night cos the power company hasn't got enough power for the entire country so they've introduced load shedding whereby they cut power in each area for a few hours each day/night including traffic lights. Sorry, i shouldn't be scaring you now; just stay in the mountains and gameparks!!

nmonteith
14-Feb-2008
12:02:43 AM
Isn't there lions and rhinos in the gameparks? Flying Great Whites in the ocean. This place makes the Australian bush seem very tame.
dalai
14-Feb-2008
8:59:37 AM
On 13/02/2008 JimboV10 wrote:
>I know I'm probably gonna cop some flak for this one, but I personally
>thought Font was overrated.

Not at all. Interested in your opinion JimboV10...

I think where Font would especially come into it's own would be as a local to get the most out of condition dependant problems. I was there in Winter to get the cold temps and spend a fair bit of time tent bound with drizzle and disappointingly mild above zero temps. The area is so huge that I think there is a lifetime of problems, new problems and even areas are still being developed!

Hueco (pre bureaucracy nightmare it is today) was a better travellers destination as it wasn't so condition dependant - as long as you were there in Winter... ;-)

Also spent time at other US spots and thought they all were far better than the Stapylton bouldering. Amazing Sandstone agreed but mostly spread out and overrated IMO...

I haven't been to the Tower yet so can't comment on the rest of what is in the Grampians

Would love to go to NZ!

JimboV10
14-Feb-2008
9:45:15 AM
On 14/02/2008 dalai wrote:

>Not at all. Interested in your opinion JimboV10...
>
>I think where Font would especially come into it's own would be as a local
>to get the most out of condition dependant problems.

Yeah thats what I thought. As for a tripping destination I was keen to go to Ceuse or similar...

I was there in Winter
>to get the cold temps and spend a fair bit of time tent bound with drizzle
>and disappointingly mild above zero temps. The area is so huge that I think
>there is a lifetime of problems, new problems and even areas are still
>being developed!
>
>Hueco (pre bureaucracy nightmare it is today) was a better travellers
>destination as it wasn't so condition dependant - as long as you were there
>in Winter... ;-)

Heuco is on the list! It was either there or Thailand and Rocklands (see new thread)
>
>Also spent time at other US spots and thought they all were far better
>than the Stapylton bouldering. Amazing Sandstone agreed but mostly spread
>out and overrated IMO...

In the States, I've only bouldered in Yosemite (again, thought this was rubbish, but could have been the jetlag pissing me off)

>I haven't been to the Tower yet so can't comment on the rest of what is
>in the Grampians
>
>Would love to go to NZ!

New Zealand is sweet as too. Been to Castle Hill twice, definately go in August or September, its getting too hot too early now, and is nails when hot. Definately head to Hulk Hogan for a good day or 2 on the steepness!

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There are 953 messages in this topic.

 

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