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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
mouseys magical land of nonsense
widewetandslippery
7-Aug-2007
1:12:48 PM
Mousey, will your sister carry the rope and esky?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7-Aug-2007
1:34:27 PM
On 6/08/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>On 6/08/2007 mousey wrote:
>>great trip, just bummed that i put all the work into living/jugging/rapping/hauling
>>on the wall & didnt get to climb the damn thing...
>
>Climbing is only 10% of big-wall 'climbing'. If you jugged, slept and
>hauled your a big wall climber!

Yes indeedy.
Very well done mousey, Macciza et al on your winter ascent of Ozy Direct. I am pleased for you that you got the conditions you wanted and succeeded in your endeavours.

M10iswhereitsat.
7-Aug-2007
2:16:34 PM
On 7/08/2007 Idratherbeclimbing wrote:
>On 6/08/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>>On 6/08/2007 mousey wrote:
>>>great trip, just bummed that i put all the work into living/jugging/rapping/hauling
>>>on the wall & didnt get to climb the damn thing...
>>
>>Climbing is only 10% of big-wall 'climbing'. If you jugged, slept and
>>hauled your a big wall climber!
>
>Yes indeedy.
>Very well done >> mousey, macciza et al on your winter ascent of Ozy Direct. I am
>pleased for you that you got the conditions you wanted and succeeded in
>your endeavours.


>just bummed that i put all the work into living/jugging/rapping/hauling
>on the wall & didnt get to climb the damn thing...


Mouse , I will be making a winter ascent of LGT next winter... got a photog/vid organised already ... so here's an opp for you to climb the North Wall 4 real !!! ... much better route than OD too !!!... maybe ...

Macciza
7-Aug-2007
5:52:32 PM
Good to know you are still alive, Josh, Can't get thru on your phone.
Thanks to all how provided assistance on our little trip, a great time was had by all.

Julian Bell and David Gliddon clean-aided Ozymandias Direct over the 3-5th August after rapping in on
the 2nd. The climb was a 10th anniversary of their earlier unfortunate attempt. Snow, hail and sub-zero
temperatures where enjoyed. The climb was documented on video and digital camera by Josh Caple and
Macciza. A presentation will be made in Katoomba next week, as a fund raiser for a future trip to
Khyrgistan in '09.

PS I've been thinking of heading down next winter as well . . .

mousey
7-Aug-2007
5:56:02 PM
good to know you are too dude!! i think my phone might be in the tongue of the pig?? if not ill find it when i clean the car out this arvo... did you get back in touch with dave & jules after all that?
pretty keen to get all my shit back from the van!!!! (gotta get the 100 & the ledge back to their owners!)

Macciza
7-Aug-2007
6:24:31 PM
Yeah - all good - stuff is at my place. Drop by soon.
Julz and Dave gone up the hill - probably goin' climbin'.
That summit shot is pretty awesome, dude. nice work . . .

mousey
7-Aug-2007
6:31:58 PM
nice one mate, probly be around wednesday after work??
ill ring ya in a bit to sort stuff out... i finally wised up & started keeping all my #'s on the computer for when i dont have my phone :)

mousey
9-Aug-2007
6:44:15 AM
http://youtube.com/watch?v=5f9ItCoey0k

^ i think im gonna stop skating cus of this guy
TLockwood
9-Aug-2007
1:03:27 PM
that was sooo lame (imo) he talks about it as if its figure ice-skating

Sabu
9-Aug-2007
1:20:06 PM
sooo is skate boarding officially classified as "uncool" now!? ahahaha
TLockwood
9-Aug-2007
1:24:34 PM
if u wear tights then i think the answer is yes

Sabu
13-Aug-2007
9:07:00 PM
A great video demonstrating the dangers of farting, you'll love this mousy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MoLkj7RBSg4
TLockwood
13-Aug-2007
9:13:40 PM
that vid led me on to see this vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=da3qgH-iCAE&mode=related&search=

edit: Disclaimer: visually disgusting...

Sabu
13-Aug-2007
9:21:26 PM
lol that one should really come with some sort of warning or disclaimer...!

mousey
13-Aug-2007
10:44:22 PM
farkin ell dude, im about to eat!
TLockwood
13-Aug-2007
10:55:18 PM
james started it :P

mousey
14-Aug-2007
7:02:03 AM
true...

anyway, check this out
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/staffordshire/6943847.stm
http://flickr.com/photos/larajade/513641346/

she is going to makea lot of money!!

mousey
14-Aug-2007
7:06:18 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=laKnPbR6XgI&mode=related&search=

i have an sb-28.... should i be worried about what it gets up to with the PW's when im not home?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
14-Aug-2007
2:09:26 PM
On 6/08/2007 mousey wrote:
>by the way, does anyone have tricks for jugging iced up lines?
>wanking the ropes with my fingernails got old after about 150m metres....
>licking the teeth of the jugs was only short term effective.... ended up
>have to handoverhand over the last metre/over the summit (at about midnight
>in a snowstorm...shit i was just going up to dump photos onto the lappie!)
>cus they just wouldnt bite into the ropes!!

The old Hiebler clamps were designed to overcome this drawback, but as Mikl once wrote (on Chockstone), about the use of them "he looked death in the eye and did not like what he saw", or words to that effect.

Hey mousey &/or Macciza; ... Care to share any technique tips re how to be efficient in such conditions for jugging probs, or general other wall surviving, dealing with 'hot aches', camera lense fogging, etc?
From the picture that mousey took it appears that the top ascender Macciza is using is a clamp type (Gibbs ascender?), rather than a 'toothed' type (Jumar teeth or similar). Comments on rig and performance on that trip ~ as compared to a fair weather use in the blueys would be appreciated.


>oooo also, i have come across my new favourite funny noise... im not sure
>if there is a word for it yet, but its the strange 'fart' noise that urine
>displacement causes with a 'tight fitting' pee bottle.

It's a good one eh mousey!
You will find that there are other funny noises to be discovered too, in such adventures.

Macciza wrote
>A presentation will be made in Katoomba next week, as a fund raiser for a future trip to Khyrgistan in '09.
Please give some feedback online for those of us who can't make it to the presentation.
:)



Phil Box
14-Aug-2007
4:20:08 PM
What I wanna know is why can't I get a urine stream going whilst lying down on my portaledge with the wind howling and me not wanting to get upright cos' I likes me sleeping bag warmth too much. That and the fact that percy shriveled up and wouldn't come out of hiding. Makes for interesting times trying to relieve ones bladder in the middle of the night.

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