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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 5 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 94
Author
Testpieces at the grade

Damietta
29-Apr-2004
3:29:06 PM
Er, whoopsy, I just realised that thread was only for Victoria, sorry about that
ness
30-Apr-2004
12:01:26 AM
I think Pathos is hard for 21.
??
I'm also glad that Surface to Air was removed - nice climb, but ulimately very soft for the grade, escpecially if you stand on a rock at the start!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
30-Apr-2004
10:30:03 AM
On 29/04/2004 Damien wrote:
>Integral Crack at Booroomba, (snip) There is a legend of local hardman Tony Barten >soloing the route, stopping within 3m of the top and freezing, (snip) regathered compusre and completed the solo.
My recollection of this climb is that it 'backs off' quite a bit in the last 4 or 5 metres. Maybe he was sandbagging those present at the time?
(... or perhaps I was just relieved to have made it past the delicate crux bulge at about 2/3 - 3/4 height when I climbed it)!
Excellent climb & on a par with Eternity at Piddington in my opinion.
kachoong
30-Apr-2004
1:02:13 PM
Have you at all thought about grades lower than 9?

what about:
Exodus 6
Hammer 3 (or tiptoe)
Diapason 7


Lamplighter, definite 14 (Hot Flap is good)
Skink 18 (I always thought it was 17, never mind)
What about XI 19 it's better than Tannin, though Quisling is great too
Golden Fleece is a good 18
Arachnus 11
I reckon Surface to Air is better than Missing Link for 17

How many people have repeated Steve Monk's Ozymandias 28?
now that should be a benchmark!

....Dave

Rupert
30-Apr-2004
3:03:42 PM
XI better than Tannin? Careful Dave, them's Fightin' words. :)
kachoong
30-Apr-2004
3:13:41 PM
He he he.

Actually I reckon that Tannin direct (20?) is better than Tannin.

....Dave

phil_nev
30-Apr-2004
3:41:34 PM
XI is AS GOOD as Tannin. I dont think its better. Both routesd were highlights of my winter araps trip last year.

Phil

Rich
30-Apr-2004
4:03:09 PM
often depends on your mood at the time. i prefer tannin to xi and missing link to surface to air.. so there u go..

shiltz
30-Apr-2004
4:36:19 PM
I really struggle with grades under 10, probably because I don't climb them enough. My sense for grades really only operates in the range from 14-24. Above 24 I've never climbed cleanly. Below 14 I have trouble separating the grades. The best I can do is determine the rough range like 1-5, 6-10 or 11-14.
The absolute best person to ask about the grade of a climb is someone who has just climbed a bunch of other climbs at the same grade.
tastybigmac
30-Apr-2004
5:35:26 PM
24 orestes or life in the fast lane

Paulie
30-Apr-2004
9:55:23 PM
Wouldn't this whole thing have to localised to a particular area? I.e., Araps list; Buffalo list; Nowra list; Point Perp list...you'd probably have to even localise it to particular crags in many cases!

shiltz
1-May-2004
2:04:15 PM
Yep...I think Araps is a good place to start. Buffalo is just so different.
gfdonc
1-May-2004
10:08:55 PM
Arachnus 11? Wasn't it 8 in the Lockwood guide? What happened?
- Steve
James
3-May-2004
11:20:12 AM
Wall of the Afternoon Sun is pox at 19. Pitch 1 maybe, but the rest of the climb is crap (& the whole climb counts). There's way better 19s at Araps, eg: Lex Luthor (p2 especially), Quo Vadis....

 Page 5 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 94
There are 94 messages in this topic.

 

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