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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 31
Author
Towards 1000 New Routes
tastrad
3-Sep-2016
5:41:08 PM
I just compiled a list of the first ascents I've been involved in over the last 36 years. It inspired me to write this article. Hope you enjoy it. cheers

http://climbtasmania.com.au/blogs/news/towards-1000-new-climbs-my-climbing-life-so-far-1

JamesMc
3-Sep-2016
8:09:12 PM
So who has put up 1000 new routes? I'm guessing Chris Baxter and Mike Law. Wayne Maher, a couple of KLs and Bob McMahon would be contenders.

Me? 0nly about 400.

kieranl
3-Sep-2016
9:45:01 PM
This KL would fall way short of that number, half that would be a high estimate. There were some big droughts there. And good routes... that's another ball-game altogether.
dalai
3-Sep-2016
11:15:30 PM
Neil must surely have over 1000?
Jayford4321
4-Sep-2016
4:20:52 PM
On 3/09/2016 dalai wrote:
>Neil must surely have over 1000?

Good 2C U disqualified Urself from the contender list daliah, as boulder linz hardly count as routes.
Then agen half the pox that nm has put up should B in the same bucket.
Itz hard to understand he does that stuff when he also has some pearlers in the otha half.

Hereza Q.
If the likes of nm an mkkl put up a new multipitch route . . .
Do they both claim it towards their kilo?

Reckon odius karnt wait 4 strava 2 include new rock routes, and watch the KOMtests Btween komtenders, if he amused by stugang getting mansplained on an ab route.
One Day Hero
4-Sep-2016
8:25:24 PM
This shit really bugs me. If you guys are keeping score on how many routes you've put up, no wonder so much of it is god-awful jesus-fuching worthless pox!

I mean, if it goes on gear without trashing the rock with cleaning, then whatever.....there's probably no harm in taking your ocd for a walk. For fuchs sake though, do you really think you can bolt total shit, devalue the crag, and get away with "I must have seen some value in the route"? Sure you saw some value, it massaged your ego and got you one route closer to the magic thousand which sees you through the pearly gates of hilti.

I'm not trying to single anyone out here, cough cough, halftheroutesathillwoodsuckdonkeydicks

Superstu
5-Sep-2016
6:47:47 AM
Only trad, and only routes that have acquired stars after initial publication, count.

Doug
5-Sep-2016
8:46:48 AM
On 4/09/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>This shit really bugs me. If you guys are keeping score on how many routes
>you've put up, no wonder so much of it is god-awful jesus-fuching worthless
>pox!

+1 ;-)
Tastrad
5-Sep-2016
8:47:48 AM
Hey, thanks for a great name for my next new worthless poxy climb..put 6 bolts in an arête on an obscure buttress in the gorge yesterday and then led it, probably never to be repeated but nice grade 23. I'm having great fun doing these climbs..thats all that counts. Might call it..One Day Hero Sucks Donkey Diks
technogeekery
5-Sep-2016
1:30:57 PM
Tastrad - cool to read that. Great that you have a record of them all - the kind of thing that's really fun to review every 10 years or so and remember friends and places. Nice that you can revisit them with your daughter and have a totally different experience on them. Happy fathers day :-)
Tastrad
5-Sep-2016
1:40:01 PM
Thanks Mate..was a great Fathers Day climbing in the gorge with my daughter and doing a couple of new routes
widewetandslippery
5-Sep-2016
1:52:01 PM
Damo, i havent put a good route up in god knows how long. I dont care. Wanna come to rawanda?

MisterGribble
5-Sep-2016
5:14:04 PM
Seriously this thread.....
jdb
5-Sep-2016
5:16:43 PM
I've only got 999 to go..........

ChuckNorris
5-Sep-2016
5:33:05 PM
Tastrad that's defamation - ODH has never touched a donkey. He prefers goats.
One Day Hero
5-Sep-2016
5:36:52 PM
On 5/09/2016 Tastrad wrote:
>I'm having great fun doing these climbs..thats all that counts.

No it isn't all that counts. I mean, you of all people must understand that someone adding steel to a community resource (which is also a quasi-natural environment, and public land, and maybe a national park) has a responsibility to not fuch it up, make a mess, plonk a shit route right on top of a good route, etc. Your logic is the same logic which has been used by utter muppets recently to shit all over crags like Mt Kiera........and that place was struggling to be worthwhile as it was!

>Might call it..One Day Hero
>Sucks Donkey Diks

Pro tip - if you leave the spaces out like I did, it takes the reader longer to work out how rude it is, adding a smidge of comic timing to the abusive message.
One Day Hero
5-Sep-2016
5:42:28 PM
On 5/09/2016 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Wanna come to rawanda?

I dunno mate. Aids and ebola don't sound that bad, but packrafting?

rodw
5-Sep-2016
7:01:59 PM
On 5/09/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>I dunno mate. Aids and ebola don't sound that bad, but packrafting?

Only if he finds the source of the nile
Jayford4321
5-Sep-2016
8:26:53 PM
On 5/09/2016 rodw wrote:
>On 5/09/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>>I dunno mate. Aids and ebola don't sound that bad, but packrafting?
>
>Only if he finds the source of the nile

Careful, or U 2 might find crocagators or hippomunchers bigger than Urselves.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
5-Sep-2016
9:06:52 PM
On 5/09/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 5/09/2016 Tastrad wrote:
>>I'm having great fun doing these climbs..thats all that counts.
>
>No it isn't all that counts. I mean, you of all people must understand
>that someone adding steel to a community resource (which is also a quasi-natural
>environment, and public land, and maybe a national park) has a responsibility
>to not fuch it up, make a mess, plonk a shit route right on top of a good
>route, etc. Your logic is the same logic which has been used by utter muppets
>recently to shit all over crags like Mt Kiera........and that place was
>struggling to be worthwhile as it was!
>
>>Might call it..One Day Hero
>>Sucks Donkey Diks
>
>Pro tip - if you leave the spaces out like I did, it takes the reader
>longer to work out how rude it is, adding a smidge of comic timing to the
>abusive message.

Hmm.
I'm surprised ODH didn't jump on that theme back in 2012 (on an interesting thread), when tastrad put forward the same elements (consistency happening here!), in this post...
On 31/10/2012 Tastrad wrote:
>Yes thats exactly right - new route developers do it totally for themselves.
>Why else would you go to remote cliffs on Ben Lomond and put your arse
>on the line knowing that no-one will probably ever repeat it. Or other
>Tassie guys putting many days effort into bolting at the Tyndalls knowing
>it will rarely get repeated, or sea kayaking out to crags on the west coast
>or Flinders to put up routes. Or bolting obscure bits of rock in gullies
>at Hillwood that are overgrown now.
>I thoroughly enjoyed establishing all those routes.

>New routers have to be totally self motivated and don't expect
>kudos from anybody. If you put up new routes with the added aim of pleasing
>the masses, you set yourself up for crticism and disappointment.

>Yes it is nice to have people repeat your routes, but to stay motivated you should
>not be beholden to the opinion of others re the quality of your new routes.
>To bolt a route at Fingal for instance, takes many days of effort to clean
>and over $100 in bolts - and I don't give a shit if anybody repeats them.

>If your aim is to be a crowd pleaser, then the end result is idiotic practices
>like bolting gym holds to cliffs (which happened at Duck Reach) to create
>a route that is enjoyable and accessible to everybody.

>The ultimate C-head opinion I've heard came from a local who suggested putting bolts in the
>middle of a 12m runout on Mt Blackwood. My climbing partner and I went
>ground up on a 90m face and with sustained grade 22 climbing, trundling
>as we went and faced with the challenge of a 12m section with no gear.
>I led it onsight and it was one of the most exhiliarating climbs I've ever
>done. C-head said no-one will ever likely repeat it so its not a route,
>because a route by definition is a path well travelled. The climb was therefore
>pointless and selfish because it was just a testimony to my boldness which
>not many others will get to enjoy. Stiff shit. If I bolt a route you will
>usually find it safely equipped and with lower-offs in case people do want
>to repeat, but if no-one does, then I'm happy to let it fade into obscurity
>and remain a good memory for me.
...

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There are 31 messages in this topic.

 

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