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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 34
Author
Highest / Longest climb in Aus?

Zarb
21-May-2016
2:37:44 PM
I was doing BBB with a few friends yesterday and one of them asked what the longest climb was in Australia in terms of vertical gain. My best guess was Hotel California, but I honestly have no solid idea... Ozy is just under 300m right? Perhaps there is something in the Wolgans over 300m? Mt Warning in northern NSW? Warrumbungles?


rodw
21-May-2016
3:22:37 PM
Mt Warning I do believe..

http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/mt-warning-wollumbin-shield/area/542124060

phillipivan
21-May-2016
4:17:39 PM
Blade Ridge into NW Face of Federation Peak would have to be up there.
patto
21-May-2016
4:34:13 PM
On 21/05/2016 phillipivan wrote:
>Blade Ridge into NW Face of Federation Peak would have to be up there.

Beat me to it. 640m give or take...
http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Federation+Peak

Zarb
21-May-2016
4:59:58 PM
Wowza... and not at a super hard grade either... I think I'll go to Tas...

rodw
21-May-2016
5:05:17 PM
Yeah but Tassy not really Australia is it?

Macciza
21-May-2016
5:07:15 PM
The Masterpiece, Mt Piddington. 850m 20M4

Zarb
21-May-2016
5:10:27 PM
On 21/05/2016 Macciza wrote:
>The Masterpiece, Mt Piddington. 850m 20M4

Please explain yourself. There is sufficient lack of info on this climb for it to remain quite tantalising :P

Zarb
21-May-2016
5:12:01 PM
I'm guessing it's a traverse?

I was more asking about massive walls, but I do like a good traverse :D

Zarb
21-May-2016
5:14:30 PM
On 21/05/2016 phillipivan wrote:
>Blade Ridge into NW Face of Federation Peak would have to be up there.

Do parties do the link up in a single day?

phillipivan
21-May-2016
5:51:38 PM
On 21/05/2016 Zarb wrote:
>On 21/05/2016 phillipivan wrote:
>>Blade Ridge into NW Face of Federation Peak would have to be up there.
>
>Do parties do the link up in a single day?

Should be quite achievable if you're efficient. Say's he who hasn't climbed it.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
21-May-2016
7:36:09 PM
Topic has been done before.
First post of five pages of goodness...

... & there may be other goodness in this lot.
;-)
martym
21-May-2016
11:41:06 PM
On 21/05/2016 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Topic has been done before.
>First post of five pages of goodness...
>
>... & there may be other goodness in this lot.


Since traverses are being counted we should divide the list up into up & across. - hotel cal crosses over with a 30m traverse in the middle...

A suggestion in the above link was a traverse across tiger wall; has anyone done a traverse across & back one of these mega-traverses? There's so much good climbing on Tiger Wall I reckon you could traverse 1m-45; traverse back to around the 90m mark and still have some fun traversing back again till you top out somewhere... One of the long-term residents must have tried it surely?

ajfclark
22-May-2016
8:52:11 AM
From memory, Twilight Zone (15) is a Baxter traverse of Tiger Wall.

edit: Yep.

Twilight Zone, 300m 15
Marvelous if you love 300m of downclimbing.
1. 30m as for Eagle Cleft.
2. 33m As or Hawk.
3. 39m Traverse R to a crack, then mantleshelf downwards(wha-a-a-t?) until it's possible to reverse Kaiser's 3rd pitch.
4. 30m Pitch 3 of Resignation, but move R above overhang to a narrow ledge.
5. 18m Go behind obvious block, downclimb arete, along a ledge, then bridge across a 2m gap.
6. 34m Along Kestrel's ledge, step down and climb across to Yo-Yo's third belay
7-10. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble
Chris Baxter, Daryl Carr. 4/8/68

hwalks
22-May-2016
3:38:08 PM
Red Tide in the Gramps, 1000m

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/grampians/north-grampians/route/296601351
PThomson
22-May-2016
6:36:24 PM
I think Blade Ridge into the North-West Face Direct on Federation Peak is usually regarded as the longest CONTINUALLY UPWARDS climb, though there are a few longer traverses.

-Paul
kieranl
22-May-2016
8:18:29 PM
On 21/05/2016 phillipivan wrote:
>On 21/05/2016 Zarb wrote:
>>On 21/05/2016 phillipivan wrote:
>>>Blade Ridge into NW Face of Federation Peak would have to be up there.
>>
>>Do parties do the link up in a single day?
>
>Should be quite achievable if you're efficient. Say's he who hasn't climbed
>it.

Need to be good at route-finding on the approach and the initial pitches which I gather are largely vertical scrub. I've heard of one party that got well up before realising, too late, that they were on the wrong ridge.

Zarb
22-May-2016
8:54:26 PM
On 22/05/2016 kieranl wrote:
>On 21/05/2016 phillipivan wrote:
>>On 21/05/2016 Zarb wrote:
>>>On 21/05/2016 phillipivan wrote:
>>>>Blade Ridge into NW Face of Federation Peak would have to be up there.
>>>
>>>Do parties do the link up in a single day?
>>
>>Should be quite achievable if you're efficient. Say's he who hasn't climbed
>>it.
>
>Need to be good at route-finding on the approach and the initial pitches
>which I gather are largely vertical scrub. I've heard of one party that
>got well up before realising, too late, that they were on the wrong ridge.


I feel like if I were to do it, I would find the start on a separate day before attempting, and maybe even climb the first part of the North West Face so I could do a little food / water drop where it meets Blade Ridge?

citationx
22-May-2016
11:26:43 PM
On 22/05/2016 Zarb wrote:

>
>I feel like if I were to do it, I would find the start on a separate day
>before attempting, and maybe even climb the first part of the North West
>Face so I could do a little food / water drop where it meets Blade Ridge?
>


Before trying to plan the climb, think about planning the walk in :-)
It's south western tasmania, afterall. Although, this year we had 4 good days of weather in a row before (and after) it crapped itself with 100+km/h winds, and that was only at 1000m. These windows of fine weather may get longer as more climate change occurs.
Also, someone died falling 150m off one of the ridges earlier this year, but she was walking. It still shows that you need to be very careful, you may well be using one of those ridges to descend.
gfdonc
22-May-2016
11:35:29 PM
On 22/05/2016 hwalks wrote:
>Red Tide in the Gramps, 1000m
>
>https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/grampians/north-grampians/route/296601351
Yeah vertical gain is overhyped.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 34
There are 34 messages in this topic.

 

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