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Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 7 of 7. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140
Author
Fully sick bolt wars at Araps

ChuckNorris
26-May-2016
10:00:21 PM
Ok I've got it now - it is being retroed for all those future people that are too snobbish to top rope/pre-inspect but too incompetent to lead ground up.

Good on ya the world needs more routes for minorities like them.
Jayford4321
26-May-2016
10:06:35 PM
On 26/05/2016 Stugang wrote:
>Firstly k-bomb before any views are expressed can you please stop associating
>a conservative approach to bolts with visual damage.
>
>Secondly it seems with all the chalk a bunch of peeps are enjoying the
>route as is whether as a tr or a pre inspected lead - well done to the
>head pointers for opening this up for all to re-remember and enjoy.
>
>So why bolt? You've got a world class classic 19 warm up next to it, stress
>free easy top rope at virtually same belay. So if you wanna do the climb
>you shouldn't care. Evidence is the piles of peeps who have built up the
>recent chalk don't care either.
>
>Ohh you want to lead it?!??? But you've tr'd it and bolted it. Talk about
>flogging a dead one - why not just lead it with gear in situ? Who and why
>are you bolting it for? And saying that gt will go with the consensus is
>pretty disingenuous in a world where consensus is that peeps need an app
>to wipe their butt. (Ed pm me I'll send you the link).
>
>Ps don't bring up Damian's goat saving hypocrisy.
>

U were calm earlier, so wot happened since then?
R U sayin that no-one should care about retros an chalk, and if peeps wanna flog dead ones then go their hardest?
If thats the case then dude they were born that way, so how U gonna change it?
uwhp510
27-May-2016
12:56:10 PM
On 25/05/2016 simey wrote:
>I hate rap-inspected and top-rope rehearsed boldness.

Seems like the obvious solution is to not do rap inspection or top-roping boldness, and stop worrying about what other folk get up to in the privacy of their own crag.
widewetandslippery
27-May-2016
3:57:40 PM
I always grid bolt from the ground up. Abseilings scary.

gordoste
27-May-2016
4:19:19 PM
On 19/05/2016 Macciza wrote:
>On 19/05/2016 martym wrote:
>>What do people usually do with chopped bolts?
>
>Not sure what others do though I've heard of one person who keeps them
>like pet rocks and another who has a 'trophies of war' style necklace that
>he only wears on special occasions ...
>
>Me? I melt them down and reforge them as pitons ....

But is it art?

ChuckNorris
28-May-2016
8:55:49 PM
On 26/05/2016 gnaguts wrote:
>
>U were calm earlier, so wot happened since then?

ODH has got my goat up. But he's too embarrassed to talk about it. But it's true I've seen the photos.

And also.....

Damo do you know the destruction a single goat can do? Much more than a pocket sized Yorkie in case you're interested. At least Depp had the good grace to acknowledge the error of his ways.

https://www.theguardian.com/film/video/2016/apr/18/johnny-depp-and-amber-heard-record-psa-to-apologise-for-bringing-dogs-to-australia-video

That's how a person with a good moral compass behaves. Whereas you unleash Armageddon and retort "it wasn't funny unless you were there". Pffgt

Eduardo Slabofvic
28-May-2016
9:31:51 PM
On 28/05/2016 StugAng wrote:
>ODH has got my goat up.

After getting it up, did he do anything with it?

ChuckNorris
31-May-2016
4:19:16 PM
You'll have to ask him about his special bond with the goat. He was going to give his side of the story in a TR but has either chickened out or is working on alibis.
kieranl
2-Jun-2016
12:52:59 PM
?ODH about 1:14

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2016-06-02/gothard-base-tunnel-worlds-longest-opens-in-switzerland/7469024

ChuckNorris
2-Jun-2016
7:05:27 PM
On 2/06/2016 kieranl wrote:
>?ODH about 1:14
>
>http://www.abc.net.au/news/2016-06-02/gothard-base-tunnel-worlds-longest-opens-in-switzer
>and/7469024

Yeh that's him though his local avatar had smaller horns and was white and fluffy. In any case that explains why he hasn't had time for his defence/trip report.
One Day Hero
2-Jun-2016
11:07:01 PM
Fark, the more I think about it, the less funny it seems if you weren't there. None of you were there.

Eduardo Slabofvic
3-Jun-2016
8:10:38 AM
When has that ever stopped anyone on Chockstone mouthing on loudly about anything?
Wendy
3-Jun-2016
1:43:47 PM
Was that the goat or the bolting that wasn't funny? You chasing the goat does sound pretty funny.

ChuckNorris
3-Jun-2016
2:58:44 PM
As the sage Eduardo said its not for you to decide whether your actions were funny or derisible. You just report and we'll do the rest.

Please include where and how you sourced the log, how you transported it and the pulley system used to raise it to goat height.

Don't forget to include why? Just why?
ben wiessner
7-Jun-2016
6:42:23 PM
On 24/05/2016 kieranl wrote:
>I didn't see the bolts before they were removed but I can't see how they
>would be more visually intrusive than all the chalk that's caked on this.
>It'd be interested to know if people are actually leading it or not.

Hey Kieran! I agree that the chalk on this route is visually intrusive. But I have to admit that about 98% of that chalk would be mine. I use a mammoth amount of chalk, even though it makes routes look ugly, because I am selfish and I prefer to use heaps of chalk even if other people despise the look of it. Sorry that it looks ugly!

In answer to your question whether I was leading or top roping, I was doing both. But mostly top roping. I prefer to top rope rehearse climbs until they are within an inch of their lives. Simey thinks I'm very brave.

I think it's a great route, really fun. I'm glad that Wendy rediscovered it (because otherwise I probably wouldn't have played on it. And how about that: Wendy discovered a route that isn't sh*t!!). I'm glad Duncan took the bolts out of it (because I think the route doesn't need them, and is better without them). And I'm also glad that I got to see how Doug responded when he wandered up to the route and was told that the bolts had been removed (because he was so understanding and accepting that I wouldn't have been surprised if he had broken out some tibetan prayer flags. Respect!).
kieranl
7-Jun-2016
10:39:15 PM
On 7/06/2016 ben wiessner wrote:

>Hey Kieran! I agree that the chalk on this route is visually intrusive.
>But I have to admit that about 98% of that chalk would be mine. I use a
>mammoth amount of chalk, even though it makes routes look ugly, because
>I am selfish and I prefer to use heaps of chalk even if other people despise
>the look of it. Sorry that it looks ugly!
>
It's disappeared considerably since then but what matters about impacts is what actually impacts. I was going to see where the bolts had been, I wasn't expecting the visual impact from the chalk.
>In answer to your question whether I was leading or top roping, I was
>doing both. But mostly top roping. I prefer to top rope rehearse climbs
>until they are within an inch of their lives. Simey thinks I'm very brave.
>
I'm certainly not going to criticise you for that. The only bad style is to lie (or obfuscate) about your style. My only question about removing the bolts, one of which replaced a fixed pin, is how hard it is to lead on-sight. It's Arapiles and it's trad so the grade should reflect the difficulty and seriousness of jumping on it on-sight. If there's a serious chance of grounding out from a few metres up on a nasty landing while trying to fiddle in the first piece then the grade and description should reflect this.

>I think it's a great route, really fun. I'm glad that Wendy rediscovered
>it (because otherwise I probably wouldn't have played on it. And how about
>that: Wendy discovered a route that isn't sh*t!!). I'm glad Duncan took
>the bolts out of it (because I think the route doesn't need them, and is
>better without them). And I'm also glad that I got to see how Doug responded
>when he wandered up to the route and was told that the bolts had been removed
>(because he was so understanding and accepting that I wouldn't have been
>surprised if he had broken out some tibetan prayer flags. Respect!).

Good to hear your view on it. As to Doug's response, those of us who place bolts have to be open to others removing them.

Actually the climb's a bit of both worlds now. The bolt sleeves and, presumably the cones, are still in place, so it would appear that a hypothetical climber could come along, screw in bolts with hangers, lead the climb and then remove the bolts and hangers. No further damage, everyone's options left open.
OozeDumbHopeless
8-Jun-2016
8:40:53 AM
Why don't all you self professed eco nutters do some work on REAL environmental impact on rock like graffiti that covers half the rock around cities.
Wendy
8-Jun-2016
9:16:26 AM
On 7/06/2016 ben wiessner wrote:

>
>I think it's a great route, really fun. I'm glad that Wendy rediscovered
>it (because otherwise I probably wouldn't have played on it. And how about
>that: Wendy discovered a route that isn't sh*t!!). I'm glad Duncan took
>the bolts out of it (because I think the route doesn't need them, and is
>better without them). And I'm also glad that I got to see how Doug responded
>when he wandered up to the route and was told that the bolts had been removed
>(because he was so understanding and accepting that I wouldn't have been
>surprised if he had broken out some tibetan prayer flags. Respect!).

I would have been understanding and accepting of difference of opinion if Duncan had actually talked to me about it. Just taking the bolts out without talking to me about his concerns send the message to me that he views his opinion as more valid than mine, that he doesn't respect that I put thought and consultation into the route. It also made me aware of how bolting wars can just go on, because my first urge was to just go and put the bolts back in again. Reactive responses feed reactive responses. When I said that I thought it was rude to not just talk to me about it first and I would have been happy for us both to go and discuss it with Glenn if he had just approached me about it, I received multiple emails full of personal abuse and derision. That was way over the top and really nasty. I was almost in tears they were that bad.

I don't really see how it is a better route without the bolts. Sure the first ascent would have had a bold bouldery start (or preclipped some gear, these things weren't unheard of in the 80s) but the experience of clipping the bolt after the crux is the same as clipping the piton would have been. They don't get in the way of the climbing at all. Is the route made by having a bouldery start? Glenn's intentions were to make the route more friendly. There was some discussion by other people about placing a bolt nest to the crack at the crux. I would have called that overkill. My intention was to turn an obscure, virtually unclimbed route into a feasible onsight lead. When it gets some onsights rather than head points, I'll be happy to hear the opinion of those people.

On another point of differing opinion, I don't feel like climbing up those layaways is really climbing the route. The route is the crack and the challenge of holding and moving up on slippery flared thin hands and finger locks with no footholds. The layaways are way off right and probably closer to Morphyne than Master Blaster. But it's no skin of my nose. It's like all those people doing Hyperlink via the down low move and or escaping to the side on Ergonomics. It's a contrived sport we participate in.


Duang Daunk
8-Jun-2016
4:43:29 PM
On 8/06/2016 OozeDumbHopeless wrote:
>Why don't all you self professed eco nutters do some work on REAL environmental
>impact on rock like graffiti that covers half the rock around cities.
>
I will help smash the skulls of your feral goats if you like.
Just don't let ODH slow us up by interfering with the corralling of them.

ChuckNorris
9-Jun-2016
5:34:16 PM
ODH asleep on the job again.

http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2016/06/08/sheep-go-on-a-rampage-after-their-shepherd-falls-asleep.html

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There are 140 messages in this topic.

 

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