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Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 7. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140
Author
Fully sick bolt wars at Araps
One Day Hero
7-May-2016
10:22:28 PM
Live update from central gully right:

-Some crap route got redpointed after 25 years as moss habitat

-2 weeks later it got retrobolted to shit (with full consent from the f.a.)

-1 week later some hectic relocated pom with weird pom ethics chopped a bolt (maybe 2), then sketched his way up it........this was pretty funny to watch.

Meanwhile, the party who retroed the route showed up to go for the redpoint only to find a pom on the route and a bolt on the ground, and the bloke who did the f.a. 35 years ago was climbing 50m away......and they're all mates and live within 300m of each other, but didn't think to talk about shit over a coffee.

Fukin' Nati.....why would you be anywhere else?
Andy P
7-May-2016
10:58:47 PM
Poms, huh!
Did they Sika any holds too?

Grabs coat, Taxi!

ChuckNorris
7-May-2016
11:06:04 PM
"Did with consent of FA" gotta be the dumbest most overrated overused excuse for bolting ever.

Apart from the riposte of "good ones" when asked "what drugs are you on for sticking 3 fking bolts on a crappy slab 2m from one of the best 15's in oz".

ajfclark
8-May-2016
6:26:07 AM
On 7/05/2016 Stugang wrote:
>Apart from the riposte of "good ones" when asked "what drugs are you on for sticking 3 fking bolts on a crappy slab 2m from one of the best 15's in oz".

What's the best 15?
Wendy
8-May-2016
9:09:12 AM
Hysterical isn't it? Gordy has obviously set the standard of behaviour in Natimuk.

Actually, I put those bolts in and I was way off in the Northern Group yesterday. The people turning up were simply people who also thought it was a reasonable decision to put the bolts in and wanted to climb the route. The person who redpointed it recently asked Glenn about putting bolts in it 6 months ago. He said go for it. She got as far as getting someone to put in anchor above it (which I do think is overkill, being 3m from the existing rap station and with natural anchors available as well, but said pom was happily using) before deciding she would just fudge gear into it on abseil, backing up existing bits of dodgy fixed gear with a few equalised aliens and preclipping the rope into gear at 5m to protect the start. She also said she was happy for it to be bolted (in front of said winging pom), she just wasn't going to do it herself.

Now I am a wonder at fudging gear in on abseil as well. I do it all the time. I could easily have done the same thing on this route. But if a route is not reasonable to expect someone to do safely ground up, hasn't been climbed in a gazillion years and could be made a much more climbable route by 2 bolts that the first ascentionist agrees with, i'm happy to put them in. Having some manners and interpersonal skills, I did talk with Glenn about them and where I thought they should go. One protects an otherwise hard start with no gear til 5m. The other one replaces a piton. Said winging pom insists there is a blue alien placement next to the piton. Which is all fine if you have preinspected the route with an extensive rack hanging off you and fiddled in the best possible gear into sub optimal placements and put a nice long draw on it for easy clipping. Anyone climbing ground up is just going to clip the piton and go and one day the piton will fail.

Of course, now that he has stood up for his principles though, said pom has his work cut out for him. Procul Harem, Trojan, Taste Sensation, Tres Hard. Hell, even I had lead Bygone before the bolt was put in it. Honestly, the experience of hundreds of grade 11 leaders has been ruined. Someone should do something about it. What about that belay on Watchtower Crack? It was done for years without it and with modern gear, you can even supplement it with a 6 camalot. Steve did The Good Fight entirely on gear, now it's a sport route. Shit, Roland put a few extra bolts into Counting the Days and gave me permission to do the same with Playing with a different Sex. Revolution Rock was copletely retroed and Gordy has put yet another rap anchor on the ledge above it. That's 3 on a 10m ledge. That bolt on Exodus 2 might always have been there, but it's half a metre from a bomber 3 rock. Enga's new route retros Visual Laxitive and has another overkill rap station and Antique Roadshow retros Underneath the Colours. Then there are all those chipped holds around the place. There won't be time for any climbing left there are so many ethical atrocities to fix. But I do expect I show of principles by doing them all ground up without the fixed gear before ripping anything out.
One Day Hero
8-May-2016
11:31:17 AM
I don't have a strong opinion on the route in question, it looks pretty shit. However, I am rather enjoying the soap opera.

>But if a route
>is not reasonable to expect someone to do safely ground up, hasn't been
>climbed in a gazillion years and could be made a much more climbable route
>by 2 bolts that the first ascentionist agrees with, i'm happy to put them
>in.

Unfortunately this statement applies to half the routes at araps (depending where one sits on the bravery/stupidity spectrum). I think the main reason that this route has remained unpopular is that it is shit, and no quantity of bolts can fix that.

Duang Daunk
8-May-2016
11:43:54 AM
On 8/05/2016 Wendy wrote:
>Hysterical isn't it?

Do two (or for that matter, a gazillion) wrongs make a right sis?
Wendy
8-May-2016
1:06:30 PM
On 8/05/2016 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 8/05/2016 Wendy wrote:
>>Hysterical isn't it?
>
>Do two (or for that matter, a gazillion) wrongs make a right sis?

Probably not but I admit to a childish desire to go out and put the bolts back in again this morning (and maybe a few more for the sake of it). I believe that is the traditional approach. Maybe I should put some of those massive home made glue in u bolts in it. Or there are other famous tricks I could learn from Gordy such as greasing up or glueing over all the holds or shoving some faeces in the crack. But being a mature person, I instead tried to initiate a polite conversation about it and got told I was dumbing down the route to my level and bolting choss new routes. I hope in his new found expertise, he has told Glenn, Simey, Mark Wood, Ingvar, Muki and no shortage of other people how they are doing that as well. I'd hate to think he just got his knickers in a knot over a no star route from Louise's guide that barely ever had an ascent and a route of mine that he failed to get up.
kieranl
8-May-2016
1:32:55 PM
On 8/05/2016 ajfclark wrote:
>On 7/05/2016 Stugang wrote:
>>Apart from the riposte of "good ones" when asked "what drugs are you
>on for sticking 3 fking bolts on a crappy slab 2m from one of the best
>15's in oz".
>
>What's the best 15?

I'm guessing the retro-ed route was Master Blaster which has me scratching my head over which " of the best 15's in oz" is only 2m away.
Wendy
8-May-2016
2:18:31 PM
On 8/05/2016 kieranl wrote:
>On 8/05/2016 ajfclark wrote:
>>On 7/05/2016 Stugang wrote:
>>>Apart from the riposte of "good ones" when asked "what drugs are you
>>on for sticking 3 fking bolts on a crappy slab 2m from one of the best
>>15's in oz".
>>
>>What's the best 15?
>
>I'm guessing the retro-ed route was Master Blaster which has me scratching
>my head over which " of the best 15's in oz" is only 2m away.

I think they must be talking about something else because I only put 2 bolts in MB. I'm struggling to think of what though

Eduardo Slabofvic
8-May-2016
2:32:19 PM
On 7/05/2016 Stugang wrote:
>what drugs are you on
>f

So good to have you back and contributing to the debate. I look forward to some more gratuitous sex and violence
kieranl
8-May-2016
2:39:41 PM
On 8/05/2016 Wendy wrote:

>I think they must be talking about something else because I only put 2
>bolts in MB. I'm struggling to think of what though

Stugang is probably counting the bolt in Morfyne

Edit: mixing up my trollers, put ODH instead of Stugang - fixed
Jayford4321
8-May-2016
3:03:20 PM
On 8/05/2016 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>I look forward to some more gratuitous sex and violence

Get a room, pour Urself a martini, think about boltz, and they will come.
Just don't winge to us when tha retroerz come after.

ChuckNorris
8-May-2016
3:06:13 PM
nah it was on a crap new route right next to hangover layback. cant remember exactly how many bolts there were but there are none now - and that is a real quote.
Wendy
9-May-2016
7:45:11 AM
I want to apologise for the whinging pom comment. I was continuing the pom reference in line with Damo's original post to preserve the anonymity of the person and the whinging slipped in because I was upset at the original action and then the angry, insulting and threatening emails I received about it.

This whole drama could have been avoided if the person had just contacted me to say they were upset about the bolts, did not think they were necessary and was passionate about doing the route as it was. I am not at all invested in the route. Those bolts have been on several people's to do list for 6 months, I was just the one who got around to it. I would have been happy to check with Glenn what his preference was and have the bolts removed if that was the conclusion. I still think they are reasonable. I can always fudge gear into it on abseil if I want to do it but the route will probably languish back into obscurity if you have to fudge it or head point it.
Jayford4321
9-May-2016
8:07:21 AM
On 9/05/2016 Wendy wrote:
>I want to apologise for the whinging pom comment.
Is now
>angry, insulting and threatening
instead.

Fixed? an yep, Ur earlier comment of hysterical happenings in Nati is proving truer than ever.
martym
9-May-2016
8:18:24 AM
On 8/05/2016 Wendy wrote:
>and got told I was dumbing
>down the route to my level and bolting choss new routes.
>to get up.
Said the gecko to the human....

Macciza
9-May-2016
2:16:31 PM
Wow what weird ethics you people have down there ....

I just did a route up here that similarly probably hasn't seen an ascent in quite a while..
Managed to 'fudge' (whatever that actually means) gear in on abseil, head point it and finally lead it placing the gear.
I wrote to the FA explaining that on modern gear the bolts are not needed and whether he would mind them being removed. Have since decided they can probably be left but the route should not be retrobolted because it's been retro-tradded... It's now a classic test piece!
You's sure do things different down there ...
simey
9-May-2016
3:16:56 PM
On 9/05/2016 Macciza wrote:
>Wow what weird ethics you people have down there ....
>
>I just did a route up here that similarly probably hasn't seen an ascent
>in quite a while..
>Managed to 'fudge' (whatever that actually means) gear in on abseil, head
>point it and finally lead it placing the gear.
>I wrote to the FA explaining that on modern gear the bolts are not needed
>and whether he would mind them being removed. Have since decided they can
>probably be left but the route should not be retrobolted because it's been
>retro-tradded... It's now a classic test piece!
>You's sure do things different down there ...

Mate, if you had to rap the route first to see what gear it takes prior to leading it, then you have already sold out. Fcuk I hate rap-inspected ascents claiming to be improved style. Same goes for this bullshit ascent at Arapiles of Master Blaster. If you want to make a statement about ethics/bolting/blah-blah then go ground-up or go home.


Dave_S
9-May-2016
3:20:48 PM
On 9/05/2016 simey wrote:
>go ground-up or go home.

Nude, solo, and on camera too, right?

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There are 140 messages in this topic.

 

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