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Coolest features to climb in Australia

stugang

5-Dec-2015
3:27:54 PM

Nah I reckon the rock would have a few awesome routes. The place is so awesome even a route involving 8 ft dynos between pockets you can sit in would be cool. Though I think there are a couple of better lines.

Colg

5-Dec-2015
9:26:55 PM

We seam to be stuck on Uluru. How about the organ pipes at kaputar, remarkable rocks kangaroo island, wave wall in WA, and lastly honeycomb gorge in the Kennedy ranges.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

6-Dec-2015
1:46:36 PM

On 4/12/2015 One Day Hero wrote:
>There are barely any naturally protectable features which look worthwhile for climbing. >What looks really good are the many 150-200m? high gently overhanging walls covered with solid flakes.

Solid?

A snippet from Classic Climbs Of Australia (Joe Friend) that compliments BA's posts above; ie Mountain 32, pp 24-25; from Keith Lockwood.

"Bolts were placed as the only possible protection up the steep slabs beneath the Tail itself. Despite the enclosure, the route is spectacularly exposed, especially when the necessary traverse-out begins after pitch three.
Arkose sandstone forms the bulk of the rock, providing excellent friction, yet breaking away into friable dinner-plate style flakes that come away in your hand."

CCoA also has the additional tidbits of info.

On a subsequent ascent, the protection was described as 'awful', but another climber described the initial pitches as 'easy' if you climb up the outside of the tail (?).
&
Apart from the Tourist Route or descent trail, there are now three important climbing routes on the rock including the Kangaroo Tail.

Reference - Ayers Rock 1952, in Peaks 3 (1981) (ceased publication).
Griffiths, John and Helen, Guide To Rock Climbs In The Northern Territory, the authors 1975, (out of print).

Photos from Classic Climbs of Australia...

Is he holding that flake on, so it doesn't take out the belayer?
Heh, heh, heh.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

6-Dec-2015
3:24:33 PM

On 4/12/2015 wallwombat wrote:
>That wave looking face, in WA, that was on the cover of Rock a few lifetimes ago.
>
Wave Rock at Hyden WA?

If it is what I'm thinking of then the face of it is unclimbable due basically having nil features on a blank concave but colourful wall, that is about 15 m* max in height.

(* Poor memory at play here due it has been a blerrie long time since I was there, but remember parking my 4WD vehicle on the rock apron at base and getting a photo of the wall using the vehicle for comparison scale.
It was only about four times the height of the vehicle.
From what I have heard of the place since, you are no longer allowed to get vehicles anywhere near that close, but it was 'out in the sticks' in those hazy-daze... Heh, heh, heh.)

gfdonc

7-Dec-2015
7:38:05 PM

I believe a now NSW-based climber who grew up in Melbourne did a solo ascent of one side of The Rock. Sometime in the 80's I think. And my belief is fairly firm. About grade 13-14 I think he said.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

7-Dec-2015
11:20:13 PM

On 7/12/2015 gfdonc wrote:
>I believe a now NSW-based climber who grew up in Melbourne did a solo ascent
>of one side of The Rock. Sometime in the 80's I think. And my belief
>is fairly firm. About grade 13-14 I think he said.
>
>
Possibly the central blunt arete/ridge in the following pic?

http://www.chockstonephotos.com/Australian-Print.asp?ID=395&Zoom=TRUE

I.e the direct line to summit that parallels the lower half of the Tourist Route?

lightfoot

8-Dec-2015
6:12:10 AM

The 'wing' on flight of the phoenix, warrumbungles

Jayford4321

8-Dec-2015
1:43:50 PM

Tha Awsome Wall at Brunswick.


shortman

8-Dec-2015
2:03:39 PM

Thanks for the pics M9....


MisterGribble

8-Dec-2015
5:25:16 PM

Dramp Anyone ?


Duang Daunk

8-Dec-2015
5:39:14 PM

Coolest / Classic Climbs Of Australia?

My back steps into the house after a big night out, especially since my excellent renovations.


Pat B

9-Dec-2015
12:03:39 PM

On 7/12/2015 gfdonc wrote:
>I believe a now NSW-based climber who grew up in Melbourne did a solo ascent
>of one side of The Rock. Sometime in the 80's I think. And my belief
>is fairly firm. About grade 13-14 I think he said.
>
>

Yes I can confirm this as I lived and climbed with this individual at the time he did this

martym

19-Jan-2016
5:32:06 PM

Uluru in the rain...


pmonks

20-Jan-2016
4:16:36 PM

Andrew's Bulge, Banger

widewetandslippery

20-Jan-2016
7:57:59 PM

caucus corner on belougary (sp) in the bungles. one of the best lines in the country. never done it but still hope one day

PGS

21-Jan-2016
8:01:51 AM

...with the direct finish through the roof (Dole diary)


E. Wells

21-Jan-2016
5:16:31 PM

Caucasus corner is great but the route spends as little time possible in the corner!! Felt like a nice rest day activity after Neruda. For sure the bigger line than POTP but climbing so-so until last pitches i reckon.

widewetandslippery

21-Jan-2016
5:29:10 PM

Never done neruda but have done ginsberg. I cite caucus due to its asethtics which i figured the thread is about


E. Wells

21-Jan-2016
6:58:05 PM

For sure.. it really captivated me and was well worth it. Big landmarks make it easier to read than most things on bluff. Ginsberg looks great too! Maybe this winter.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

26-Sep-2019
8:08:32 PM

For any that may not be aware of it; Uluru, even by the tourist route that until today was tolerated, is now officially no longer on the 'coolest' list.

There are 44 messages in this topic.