14-Nov-2015 8:21:26 PM
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This:-
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/how-do-you-ensure-your-belayer-is-competent/111286050__1
is a really interesting read. Taking away a few local (US) prejudices (Grigri good/Grigri bad, slack will save your life) it raises a few questions.
I think part of the problem is that most falls come with lots of warning; sudden slips can surprise people. Most falls are preceded by an aria of shouting.
Grigri lock is real (which is why I like the new belay technique for the Grigri2), belaying is hard.
I use a fuzzy old fatboy rope (originally10.5 mm) which locks any Grigri and can barely be pulled through an ATC.
One decent fall from 90 kg of angry blubber tends to focus most people.
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