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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
brunswick boulder update and statement
jack sabbath
2-Aug-2015
9:49:52 PM
Hello. Brunny was officially opened today. I hope people realize that there are a few experiments going on with the development and running of the space. Firstly it was a really hard project to get going because there is no where in brunswick suitable for a proper public training facility like Burnley and its not like theres a shortage of gyms popping up in the area and quite honestly if you want to train hard thats where you should be going. My brief was to create something that worked as public sculpture and climbing, to keep stakeholders happy. There were alot of politics involved and a desire for inclusiveness of terrain which made it hard to do something just for climbers. We wanted to have some Burnleyesque walls coming from the sides of the plaza originally but couldnt due to upcoming development. Yes the steel has caused holds to spin but we are rectifying this with the fabricator as well as planning a more streamlined routesetting program. I personally like the idea of giving the money for maintenance to groups like VCC so they can put it back into the crags but this takes time to sell and to set up. We should do a facebook page soon but im lazy on that sorry........ However just mark spinners like your doing and feel free to sticker problems you create. If your interested in routesetting just ask. Where the project has been successful is demonstrating that climbing can be used to activate space meaning that there is now a precedent to develop this concept which I think is important for outer suburbs and rural areas with no access to climbing gyms (no offense but i think this sport is too awesome and beneficial to contain it to the affluent middle classes with mobility and cash). People seem to smile at the plaza and strangers talk which is something really difficult to achieve in urban design. We also made a really dodgy street awesome and the overall program of street art and stuff that will be unrolled when its warmer is incredible in itself. Its actually really hard to shut down a street or to make a decent plaza on less than a million which we have weirdly achieved. In urban design terms this is really successful. You have to admit the streetart is awesome and the climbing allowed that to happen...................... I have been relaying feedback to Moreland and new interested councils and pushing for 3.5 M non top out or 3M top outs (thats the edge of play standards) however if brunny didnt exist we wouldnt have a precedent to ask for this. Where brunny doesnt work is the best evidence to improve. it would be great to get to a stage where we get skate park or even playground style dollars and can do mass call outs so all climbers can have more input into design, program and materials but that's beyond my control. i dont know if anyone have seen those crappy geometric playground boulders. brunny costs 2.5 of those so in reality councils have been sold "bouldering" for years and if climbers dont control the direction of this in the built environment corporations who couldn't give a f--- about what we do will cash in because bouldering is growing everyday internationally and that's just how it is. Thanks for for patience, criticism and support. if you have any real comments about this post call me up and lets get a coffee because id rather just talk about it in person than bitch about it anonymously here. the boulder is also a big reverb chamber you can plug guitars into or do accapella recordings inside. I think the sparky will connect it in the next fortnight. it is brunswick afterall and we had to do something for the musos too, if you want to record in it, just ask..................peace....
patto
3-Aug-2015
4:50:01 AM
Without sounding too much like a shrill:

On 2/08/2015 jack sabbath wrote:
>People seem to smile at the plaza and strangers
>talk which is something really difficult to achieve in urban design.
Abso-friggen-lutely. This is what makes this project so fantastic and so awesome for Brunswick. Not only are general local community interacting in positive way but it is good to see boulderers interacting with the broader community too.

On 2/08/2015 jack sabbath wrote:
>quite honestly if you want to train hard thats where you should
>be going.
Pretty much. Though there is enough there IMO, that it is still very useful for good regular train for those who live or shop nearby.

ajfclark
3-Aug-2015
7:40:55 AM
I found this much easier to read after a bit of editing:

On 2/08/2015 jack sabbath wrote:
>Hello. Brunny was officially opened today. I hope people realize that there are a few experiments going on with the development and running of the space.
>
>Firstly it was a really hard project to get going because there is no where in Brunswick suitable for a proper public training facility like Burnley and it's not like there's a shortage of gyms popping up in the area and quite honestly if you want to train hard that's where you should be going.
>
>My brief was to create something that worked as public sculpture and climbing, to keep stakeholders happy. There were a lot of politics involved and a desire for inclusiveness of terrain which made it hard to do something just for climbers. We wanted to have some Burnleyesque walls coming from the sides of the plaza originally but couldn't due to upcoming development. Yes the steel has caused holds to spin but we are rectifying this with the fabricator as well as planning a more streamlined route-setting program. I personally like the idea of giving the money for maintenance to groups like VCC so they can put it back into the crags but this takes time to sell and to set up. We should do a Facebook page soon but I'm lazy on that sorry. However just mark spinners like your doing and feel free to sticker problems you create. If your interested in route-setting just ask.
>
>Where the project has been successful is demonstrating that climbing can be used to activate space meaning that there is now a precedent to develop this concept which I think is important for outer suburbs and rural areas with no access to climbing gyms (no offence but I think this sport is too awesome and beneficial to contain it to the affluent middle classes with mobility and cash). People seem to smile at the plaza and strangers talk which is something really difficult to achieve in urban design. We also made a really dodgy street awesome and the overall program of street art and stuff that will be unrolled when its warmer is incredible in itself. Its actually really hard to shut down a street or to make a decent plaza on less than a million which we have weirdly achieved. In urban design terms this is really successful. You have to admit the street-art is awesome and the climbing allowed that to happen.
>
>I have been relaying feedback to Moreland and new interested councils and pushing for 3.5m non-top-out or 3m top-outs (that's the edge of play standards) however if brunny didn't exist we wouldn't have a precedent to ask for this. Where brunny doesn't work is the best evidence to improve. it would be great to get to a stage where we get skate park or even playground style dollars and can do mass call outs so all climbers can have more input into design, program and materials but that's beyond my control. I don't know if anyone have seen those crappy geometric playground boulders. brunny costs 2.5 of those so in reality councils have been sold "bouldering" for years and if climbers don't control the direction of this in the built environment corporations who couldn't give a f--- about what we do will cash in because bouldering is growing everyday internationally and that's just how it is.
>
>The boulder is also a big reverb chamber you can plug guitars into or do acapella recordings inside. I think the sparky will connect it in the next fortnight. it is Brunswick after all and we had to do something for the musos too, if you want to record in it, just ask.
>
>Thanks for for patience, criticism and support. if you have any real comments about this post call me up and lets get a coffee because id rather just talk about it in person than bitch about it anonymously here.
>
>peace...

There are 3 messages in this topic.

 

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