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Will Cardio Get You Through The Crux?

KillerWhale

29-May-2015
10:25:40 AM

How effective is cardio training in improving the ability to climb a rock wall? For the last ten weeks, as a part of my final year of study, I have been researching this question and what I have found may change your thinking. This report has been written for all climbers but specifically for new climbers with limited understanding of the fitness components of rock climbing and for elite climbers who are wanting marginal gains with their climbing. There is much debate over the importance of cardiovascular training and resulting endurance and where exactly it plays a role in rock climbing. With this forum post, I hope to summarize all the information I have collected to bring this debate one step closer to a resolution.

As a part of my research I have surveyed experienced and regular climbers in order to determine their knowledge of the importance of cardio to rock climbing and how cardiovascular endurance compares to other fitness components. A practical scientific experiment was conducted as a part of my research, it was designed to identify how effective cardiovascular training is towards improving climbing ability. I also did specific research using resources used in schools and found on the internet including medical encyclopaedias, medical journals, reputable rock climbing sites, university studies and fitness experts.

What did you Say?

Primary survey research found that climbers do rank cardiovascular endurance as being important and that they know why it is important. Respondents who climb more than 7 times per month were asked to rank the importance of ten relevant fitness components for rock climbing from 1 (least) to 5 (most). The results showed that cardiovascular endurance is one of the lowest ranking fitness components amongst the group of ten, however, despite its second to last placing overall, it rated on average more than three out of five for importance with 40% of respondent’s rating the importance of cardiovascular endurance as either four or five out of five. The survey participants were given a brief, technical explanation as to how cardiovascular training may help increase climbing performance. More than 50% of people responded that they already recognised that cardiovascular endurance was important. In summary, the respondents understand the importance of cardiovascular fitness and rank it as important, therefore it can be concluded that you, the climbers, at least in part believe that cardio training improves your climbing.

Rock climbing is a cardio activity.

Within an article from Body Results [1] about training for rock climbing, there is a graph showing levels of fitness required for five separate fitness components of rock climbing, ranking the fitness levels as healthy adult, above average or high. The level of aerobic fitness required for rock climbing is reported as above average. This correlates with the survey responses when comparing the importance and usage of aerobic fitness with other fitness components. On average, the respondents to the survey said that cardiovascular endurance rated 3/5 (five being greatest) for importance in rock climbing. Therefore we can identify that rock climbing involves and requires, and can be classified as, a cardio activity.

[1] Schurman, C, 2003, Outdoor Sports Conditioning: Training for Alpine Climbing Season, BodyResults.com, www.bodyresults.com/e2alpinetraining.asp, accessed 19/2/2015.

What did the Science say?

In the Live It Up 2 textbook, [2] written for the Australian Curriculum, all the chronic (long term) effects on cardiovascular training are listed. These effects include an increased blood flow, an increase of capillaries around working muscles and increased red blood cell levels. This information was supported by the information found at the source, Long Term Effects of Exercise by TeachPe.com. [3] It mentions that as a result of these chronic effects, the negative effect of the accumulated lactic acid will be much lower during high levels of activity, due to an increase in the body’s ability to remove waste and circulate nutrients to the muscles predominantly used for climbing.

The website, Mountain Trips [4] describes cardio training exercises specifically for rock climbing that involves repetitive climbing of low level climbs and bouldering in order to develop endurance within the leg and arm muscles and to increase heart rate. This source also goes into detail about how the chronic effects of aerobic training removes waste products faster (e.g. lactic acid) so that recovery times are reduced either during a climb or when recovering between climbs. This supports the information found at TeachPe.com [5] which talked about the same effects on cycling waste out of the body due to chronic effects of cardio training.

An article from Lee [6] mentions a study by the British Journal of Sport Medicine stating the amount of energy used and the heart rate reached during rock climbing, was equal to that of running a 7-10 minute kilometre. In addition, a 2007 study published by the “Journal of Undergraduate Kinesiology Research” [7] from the University of Wisconsin found that rock climbing met the American College of Sports Medicine's guidelines for heart rate and energy usage. It detailed that the intensity of a climb is determined by the type (lean-back/overhang/flat-wall) and grading of the climb along with how quickly it can be climbed. This resource goes into more technical detail in support of what Mountain Trips [8] suggests when it states that rock climbing itself is a cardio work out and is the best aerobic training to do in preparation for rock climbing. This is supported by the Live it Up 2 text book [9] that states that a crucial training principle is specificity. Specificity is training using specific elements of the sport being trained for in order to receive maximum benefit.

[2] Smyth, D et. al., 2011, LIVE IT UP 2: VCE Phsyical Education Units 3&4, Third Edition, Achper, Queensland Australia.

[3] TeachPE.com, n.d., Long-term Effects of Exercise, Teach PE, http://www.teachpe.com/anatomy/long_term_effects.php, accessed 28/2/2015.

[4] Laurence, 2011, Aerobic Training for Climbing, Mountain-trips.co.uk, www.mountain-trips.co.uk/aerobic_endurance.html, accessed 17/2/2015.

[5] TeachPE.com, n.d., Long-term Effects of Exercise, Teach PE, http://www.teachpe.com/anatomy/long_term_effects.php, accessed 28/2/2015.

[6] Lee, J, 2013, Is Rock Climbing a Good Cardio Workout?, Livestrong.com, www.livestrong.com/article/467023-is-rock-climbing-a-good-cardi-workout/, accessed 17/2/2015.

[7] Lee, J, 2013, Is Rock Climbing a Good Cardio Workout?, Livestrong.com, www.livestrong.com/article/467023-is-rock-climbing-a-good-cardi-workout/, accessed 17/2/2015.

[8] Laurence, 2011, Aerobic Training for Climbing, Mountain-trips.co.uk, www.mountain-trips.co.uk/aerobic_endurance.html , accessed 17/2/2015

[9] Smyth, D et. al., 2011, LIVE IT UP 2: VCE Phsyical Education Units 3&4, Third Edition, Achper, Queensland Australia.

What did the Experiment Say?

The purpose of the experiment was to identify if an increase in cardiovascular endurance improves your ability to rock climb. Four participants were asked to complete multiple climbs and a fitness test in order to get a pre-exercise data set. The same participants repeated the same climbs and fitness test after four weeks of cardiac exercise. Pre- and post-exercise data was recorded and evaluated. The results of the test show for each participant, the pre- and post-exercise period, step test results and climbing times for the two rock walls. Participants A and B showed improved results in the step test and climbing times and reported feeling the effects of this improvement, however participant C who started with better step test results did not improve significantly and did not report feeling a difference in their fitness level. Participant D’s times increased but the identified reason was not cardio fitness related.

An analysis of the data suggests that cardiovascular endurance could improve climbing ability; however other factors may have contributed to the improvement.

It is significant that the grade of climbs completed by participants A and B meant that cardio fitness was the dominant fitness component. For this reason an increase in cardiovascular fitness could result in a reduced climb time. For the same reason an elite climber who has plateaued in non-cardio fitness can achieve marginal gains through improving cardio fitness.

Mind Games

A less commonly considered effect of cardio training is its ability to supply oxygen to the brain. An article by Sheldon (a Climbing Magazine journalist) [10] references Justen Sjong, a world-renowned coach and climber, who has developed a breathing technique which maximizes oxygen intake for clarity within the mind. Sjong suggests that, if done correctly, it can release stress and tension in the body before, during and after the climb and will push your performance beyond your physical limits. This links back to TeachPE.com [11] because with an increased cardiovascular endurance, the oxygen intake will be increased greatly, creating better clarity within the mind. Alternatively the information extracted from the MedlinePlus Medical Encyclopaedia [12] states that cerebral hypoxia (lack of oxygen in the brain) can cause poor judgment and uncoordinated movements, resulting in a reduction in your climbing ability, hence making controlled oxygen intake an important aspect in climbing ability.

[10] Sheldon, D, n.d., Climb Harder by Mastering this Breathing Technique, Climbing.com, www.climbing.com/skill/relaxing-breath, accessed 11/1/2015.

[11] TeachPE.com, n.d., Long-term Effects of Exercise, Teach PE, http://www.teachpe.com/anatomy/long_term_effects.php, accessed 28/2/2015

[12] Dugdale, D, 2012, Cerebral Hypoxia, Medline Plus, www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/001435.htm, accessed 17/3/2015.

What do I Say?

As most of you may know, the dominate fitness components for rock climbing are muscular strength, muscular endurance, body composition and flexibility. [13] You would also know that the forearms, biceps, lats, abs and leg muscles are predominantly used during a climb. [14] Rock climbing is a very intense sport, requiring maximal effort when holding a position or pushing through the crux of the climb. This means that the predominate energy system, used during high intensity climbs, is the ATP-PC or Anaerobic glycolysis system. These systems provide enough energy for the intensity of activity being performed and do not rely on the oxygen supplied by the cardiovascular system. There is, however, a cardio aspect to climbing when low level and repetitive climbing requires your heart to beat harder and faster to deliver oxygen. We know this because, rock climbing itself isn’t only used for muscular strength and endurance training, but also for cardio training. This means that cardiovascular endurance has a significant importance within the sport of rock climbing. With reference to the data collected from the experiment, it could be concluded that if one’s cardiovascular endurance increases due to cardiovascular training, then their ability to climb increases. However the increased climbing ability could be also attributed to other factors such as competitiveness, familiarity and confidence. It does however appear that cardiovascular training and the resulting cardiovascular fitness does contribute to one’s ability to climb, especially where the cardiovascular endurance components for a given climb are higher in comparison to other fitness components as was the case with the less fit participants. With all of this credible information reviewed, analysed and compared, we are better able to conclude how important cardio training is towards improving your climbing ability.

[13] Alive Australia, 2015, Rock Climbing, Tanya Tiessen, 2006, http://www.alive.com/fitness/rock-climbing/ Accessed 12/05/2015

[14] Healthy Living, J.Kaltmann, muscled worked on during rock climbing, http://healthyliving.azcentral.com/muscles-worked-during-rock-climbing-3416.html, Accessed 12/05/2015

What did I Conclude?

Cardio is not the most important training for climbing but it can definitely improve your climbing ability. Cardiovascular endurance plays a huge part in recovery after exercise as well as supplying energy demands during low intensity climbing exercise. The body’s ability to do this increases as the cardiovascular system is exercised and stressed. The long term effects of this strenuous exercise is increased blood flow, an increase in capillaries around working muscles and an increase in red blood cell levels. This increase in the cardiovascular system becomes important for outdoor climbing when climbers have to walk lengthy distances in order to reach the climbing area and/or when climb for extended periods of time. A fit cardiovascular system allows the body to maintain minimal fatigue during this time leaving maximal energy for climbing.

Cardio also becomes important when multiple climbs are performed over the day. This is because as fatigue builds up during climbing, it gets filtered and reduced by the cardiovascular system in the rest period after climbing. The better the cardiovascular system, the more effective this process is.
Climbing has been proven to be a very effective cardio work out by multiple studies, suggesting that it increases the heart rate to that of running a seven minute kilometre. Since climbing is considered a cardio workout, it is implied that cardio plays a very important role in rock climbing.

Where the cardio fitness component for a climber is greater than the other fitness components, cardio exercise will play a significant role in improving climbing ability. This is particularly true for unfit climbers or climbs that are less technically challenging.

Cardio training isn’t just important for the novice or the unfit, but also for the elite in the form of marginal gains. As an elite climber reaches a plateau in his or her strength, muscular endurance, flexibility and the other important components, cardio training may be the area that provides maximum benefit to improve climbing, albeit a marginal gain. Cardio training may provide the climber with the ability to get ahead of an opponent or to finally get you through the crux.

Thank you for reading and please feel free to leave constructive opinions and conversation below. This is not a professional report so there can still be other possible conclusions.

I do hope you find this as interesting as it is useful.

Peace out and God Bless.

Eduardo Slabofvic

29-May-2015
11:34:42 AM

On 29/05/2015 KillerWhale wrote:
> please feel free to leave constructive opinions
>and conversation below.
>

On Chockstone!

The good Dr

29-May-2015
11:45:48 AM

The experimental data set was too small for any meaningful analysis. Did you do an analysis of the minimum study participant numbers to determine what would give a statistically relevant sample size?

PDRM

29-May-2015
11:58:13 AM

On 29/05/2015 KillerWhale wrote:
> As an elite climber reaches
>a plateau in his or her strength, muscular endurance, flexibility and the
>other important components, cardio training may be the area that provides
>maximum benefit to improve climbing, albeit a marginal gain. Cardio training
>may provide the climber with the ability to get ahead of an opponent or
>to finally get you through the crux.

Opponent?

P

Sabu

29-May-2015
7:40:19 PM

An interesting piece Ben, well done. I note you previously mentioned this was for a year 12 report, in which case well done on trying your hand at a number of different research methods!

Here are some thoughts and feedback to consider and to take away with you if haven't written you final report yet or if you decide to enter a scientific field of study in future (which I certainly hope you do).

As noted by Cliff, nothing is ever definite in research and you've used some very absolute statements that I would be weary of using in a formal/final report. In scientific writing one must always qualify their statements and give room for your own interpretations to be wrong. Use of words such as "may improve" instead of "will improve" is a good example of how to go about this.

>Climbing has been proven to be a very effective cardio work out by multiple
>studies, suggesting that it increases the heart rate to that of running
>a seven minute kilometre. Since climbing is considered a cardio workout,
>it is implied that cardio plays a very important role in rock climbing.

I am also weary of this statement. Just because climbing is a cardio workout, doesn't necessarily mean cardio is important for climbing. Also don't overstate your opinion. For instance you could word the above statement as "The finding that climbing is considered a cardio workout (include your citations here), suggests that the cardio system has a role to play in climbing performance and therefore specific cardio training may yield improvements in climbing ability". A statement like this allows you to put forward your opinion in such a way that you haven't overstated your findings or boxed yourself into a corner if someone presents data to the contrary.

With regard to your experiment there are a few things to consider here. Firstly for such studies always try to include a control group as without one you cannot really conclude whether an intervention you've designed has actually had any effect. This helps to control for some of the annoying factors like practice effects and so on. Also you do have a small sample size so it is important to acknowledge this as part of a "limitations" section within your report. Typically this is followed by "it is recommended that larger scale studies be conducted in future!".

Overall though, an interesting topic and all the best with the report and your future studies!

martym

31-May-2015
9:59:28 PM

You're 17? Well bloody done mate!
The comments above are sound, but assuming you pursue this at a University level, you'll pick this up in due course. You've already got 4 people to participate in a longitudinal study - that's more than your average first year uni student will be able to muster!

A couple of suggestions (genuine curiosity) for future research:
- compare gym only regulars (of which the numbers seem to be increasing) to crag regulars; I'd be interested to know how much dragging 15kg backpacks several kilometers to and from the crag effects your climbing.
- endurance vs grades; what does it mean to "improve"? You could phrase this multipitches vs boulderers ;)
- compare fitness across climbing / circus sports / rowing / fencing - any other upper-body sports...

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