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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 25
Author
Training Regimes

Sabu
8-Apr-2015
9:47:18 AM
I am interested in what others do as part of any specific training regimes at home or in the gym (apart from just regular climbing). If you do hangboard/campus workouts for instance include specific details such as how often per week, hold used, reps, rests between intervals/sets etc.

Hopefully if enough people respond with what they do or has has worked for them in the past this might be a handy resource for others in developing their own regimes (myself included).

I'm still trying to figure out my own hangboard workout but its starting to look a bit like this:

Warmup: The entry level sequence from Metolius (http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/training_giude_10_min.html )

5-10min rest

The intermediate Metolius sequence.

5-10min rest

Deadhang repeaters: 6-7 holds, 4 sets of 8 sec hangs with 1 min rest in between. 5 min rests between each set of holds.

Finish with pullups or campusing until failure.

Frequency per week depends on how often I can go climbing each week, always ensuring at least 1 rest day after a hangboard session.

ajfclark
8-Apr-2015
9:49:30 AM
If you put a space after .html in that link, chockstone won't bork it.

There's some other ideas here that get some core work involved: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/training_giude_rock_ring.html

I really need to get my board and rings back up.

shortman
8-Apr-2015
9:58:36 AM
On 8/04/2015 ajfclark wrote:
>I really need to get my board and rings back up.

Why? Wouldn't you just go for a 15 minute drive and boulder or solo something easy?

Sabu
8-Apr-2015
10:03:57 AM
On 8/04/2015 ajfclark wrote:
>If you put a space after .html in that link, chockstone won't bork it.

Ah cheers for that.

>There's some other ideas here that get some core work involved

Yeah I'm looking at incorporating a full core workout on other days. Unfortunately with my setup I don't have room to easily do leg raises etc (too close to a wall).

>I really need to get my board and rings back up.
Jayford4321
8-Apr-2015
12:30:10 PM
On 8/04/2015 Sabu wrote:
>Warmup: Open fridge, grab tinnie, pop top and guzzle.

>5-10min rest

>Then intermediate finish rest of carton sequence.

>5-10min rest

>Dead tins throwaway repeat: 6 at a time, 4 sets of with 1 min rest in between. 5 min rests between each set of new cartons.

>Finish with belches or farting until failure.

>Frequency per week depends on how often going climbing interferes each week, always ensuring at least 1 rest day after a full on session.

fixt that 4U skullman?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8-Apr-2015
12:39:34 PM
Why does this thread now remind me of a Climbau quote from a while back?
ie
>On 4/03/2012 Climbau wrote:
>Nothing like a trip to the Chockstone Couch for a bit of concrete therapy. :))

D.Lodge
8-Apr-2015
1:35:17 PM
The training till failure technique is often counter productive. As you get closer to failure your form goes out the window and the returns you get from those last pull ups is possibly negative as it can bring on injuries. Better is to measure the amount you are doing and add more each week from there, or add weight to make the same amount harder, depending if you are after endurance or power/strength.
Good Luck
dan_b
8-Apr-2015
6:11:24 PM
On 8/04/2015 Sabu wrote:
>I am interested in what others do as part of any specific training regimes

I started training in Feb after breaking my ankle. This was on the background of six months of minimal climbing (1-2 days/month) due to working interstate.

I started by doing 3-5 sets too failure of chin ups on rock rings on the jug at the top, as fingers were too weak for anything smaller, anywhere from 4-10 reps per set. This would vary from 1-3 times per week.

After about 6-8 weeks I was able to easily do 5 x 10 chins on the biggest jug, and had restored some forearm strength, so I just started just doing them on the smaller holds (4 finger pocket, 3 finger pocket etc), being able to do about 2 less reps per set as I went to the smaller pockets, over the last 2-3 weeks or so.

I had first climb yesterday, bouldering in gym, first since early Jan. I found that I could crimp just about anything, but core was very weak, and endurance abysmal. This has always been the failure of home training regimes (at least in my case) - I would be very interested to hear if anyone was found an endurance regime that can be easily replicated with a board, rock rings etc. Was thinking a Bachar ladder perhaps.

Sorry for lengthy post


wallwombat
8-Apr-2015
8:56:28 PM
When I want to train, I supplement the hangboard sessions with upper body dumb bell weights at low/medium weight with high reps. I find that helps with the upper body endurance thing.

Just the classic old dumb bell routine, found in any post 1920's library book on exercise. Or the interwebs. Or Men's Health, if you are that way inclined.

Running/walking up hills can help with endurance and general fitness, even though it might make your legs a bit big and manly. It's never been fashionable but I find that not having to get the Westpac helicopter in before you reach the crag is a bonus. Especially when you are climbing at Centennial Glen.
One Day Hero
8-Apr-2015
9:23:54 PM
On 8/04/2015 Sabu wrote:
>I am interested in what others do as part of any specific training regimes
>at home or in the gym

Monday-Friday; go to work and get really tired, in autumn and spring spend all day at work wishing I was climbing instead

Saturday-Sunday; Go climbing unless social events intervene (which are becoming more frequent as all climbing partners breed and forget that weekends are supposed to be for climbing)

Tuesday Night; Intervals at the woody. Sledge mates, talk smack about the glory days, create problems which target mates' weaknesses, make vague plans for epic climbing adventures which will never happen. Repeat x4

Thursday Night; Indoor soccer, substantially better enjoyment/investment ratio than rockclimbing!

Every 6-18 months; freak out about pointlessness of mundane urban existence, ditch job, go live in the dirt somewhere, watch climbing form magically rebound 5 grades in a month, eventually get bored with rocks and hippies and slip back into mundane urban existence.


Eduardo Slabofvic
9-Apr-2015
12:07:09 AM
On 8/04/2015 Sabu wrote:
>I am interested in what others do as part of any specific training regimes
>

Get out of bed.

Sustain an injury.

Do rehab.

Repeat in intervals of 4, gradually increasing severity of injury and rehab time.

Die horribly whilst covered by grey woolen blanket.

BundyBear
9-Apr-2015
9:54:30 AM
On 8/04/2015 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 8/04/2015 Sabu wrote:
>>I am interested in what others do as part of any specific training regimes
>>at home or in the gym
>
>Monday-Friday; go to work and get really tired, in autumn and spring spend
>all day at work wishing I was climbing instead
>
>Saturday-Sunday; Go climbing unless social events intervene (which are
>becoming more frequent as all climbing partners breed and forget that weekends
>are supposed to be for climbing)
>
>Tuesday Night; Intervals at the woody. Sledge mates, talk smack about
>the glory days, create problems which target mates' weaknesses, make vague
>plans for epic climbing adventures which will never happen. Repeat x4
>
>Thursday Night; Indoor soccer, substantially better enjoyment/investment
>ratio than rockclimbing!
>
>Every 6-18 months; freak out about pointlessness of mundane urban existence,
>ditch job, go live in the dirt somewhere, watch climbing form magically
>rebound 5 grades in a month, eventually get bored with rocks and hippies
>and slip back into mundane urban existence.
>
>

Perfect Damo !! I know how you feel :-)

Zarb
9-Apr-2015
1:36:15 PM
If I could actually stick to regular climbing instead of going off on a surfing binge every few weeks, my climbing program would cycle like this:

4 weeks of stamina and skills, where I just try to get as much climbing done on as many different routes as possible. Try to push the grade, climb things I normally wouldn't climb (like arêtes), and get out on as many different rock types as possible. This is where I normally try to schedule some dirt-bag trips.

3 weeks of strength and power, where I do my best attempt at hangboard training, laps on HIT strips, campus training. What normally happens though is I get bored of all that and just end up doing some hard bouldering.

2 weeks of anaerobic endurance, where I mainly do laps on the auto belay at the gym, or traverses. It's painful, but I essentially try to get pumped to hell, and climb intervals while pumped to hell. High reps, low rest.

1 week rest, no climbing at all.

Do it all again.



The few times I have actually made it through a full 10 week cycle, it has been excellent with noticeable improvement. But most of the time what happens is the surf gets good and I leave town for a while, or a have a big F-off uni assignment and the cycle prematurely ends.
Wendy
9-Apr-2015
3:09:34 PM
I've said this before, and I'll probably say it again, because we all love the sound of our own voices, but 99% of climbers don't need to do strength training. Sure, it may seem simple and time efficient to go hang out on your beast maker, but can you do a few chin ups? Probably even off one of the small edges? Hell, even I could do them off a door frame before my fingers became too old and cranky. Campusing f---s your elbows, and if you are actually campussing on a route, your technique needs some serious attention. Unless you are one of the odd people who actually don't have much of a strength basis or you need to work on mono chin ups for your ascent of Action Directe,these aren't efficient ways to improve your climbing. It's not what's needed to get from 18 to 22. Or even to 25. Maybe if you need to get from 28 to 30+. The training techniques of high level climbers are largely irrelevant for most of us because we aren't at their level to start with. It's more about what they needed to get from your average level to pretty bloody good level. For most of us, it's about learning to use your strength more effectively, which involves thinking about technique, flexibility, stamina, mental hooha, diversity of movement repertoire etc etc. Long story short - what are the weak links in your climbing? Work them. Very rarely is it strength.

The one bit of strength training I do think most climbers could benefit from is core training. Ever barn door off? Loose your feet on steep terrain? Flail them at the rock again afterwards? Struggle to hold funky positions? That's core stuff and a goodly number of climbers could benefit from a good dose of planking. I see a lot of climbers who look core floppy on the rock. It's not just sit ups though, but something that involves you having to use your core to hold positions, which is what we want to do whilst climbing. Some years ago I did a gig with Strange Fruit and they put us through the core wringer everyday prior to rehearsal (and the work itself is very core intensive). I thought I had a good core beforehand, but that month of 5 day a week serious core training did bloody wonders for my climbing.

The other thing that most climbers would benefit from is just more climbing. When I do do something resembling training (other than core), it involves real rock and real climbing. Projecting works the limits of my power and my technical skills (and that core)in real live relevant scenarios. It also presents you with new movement puzzles. When I gave up saving hard routes for the day I would eventually be able to onsight them (and for those of us who are not Hazel Finley, that day comes a little before 25!) and started working routes, again, my climbing improved. I do top rope laps of steep routes work either power endurance or plain old endurance depending on what I'm on. I down climb, because that's both more stamina and a useful skill for onsighting. Ground up ascents work stamina, route reading, gear placements, judgement. I try and find stuff to onsight regulalry because you can loose those skills of working things out as you go near your limit (esp when you live next to Araps, become too lazy to drive any further and have done rather a lot of climbing there). Whilst I tend to avoid slabs and crimps like the plague, I do try and do a range of stuff, because you want to have that movement repertoire well established for when you head out to onsight something.

opps i've prattled on more than Chocky likes again .. see next post
Wendy
9-Apr-2015
3:09:51 PM
And mental hooha. Mental hooha has long been the thing holding me back (not the lack of a beastmaker in my life). So I have taken up the opportunity of a finger injury which put all my projects on hold to do some serious fall training. Having promised myself I was going to take 10 falls every day out, I must be well over 100 falls onto trad gear in the last month. I suppose it has helped a bit. Now I can jump off with gear at my knees (yeah, I know, I really was coming from a wussy place), and most of the time I don't even scream. But I am still terrified when it comes to doing moves I could potentially come off above gear. One must need to take a shit load of falls to overcome 25 years of being a wussbag. I'll let you know if it ever actually pays off or if I return resigned to placing gear every 50cm. The other bit of mental hooha I think people can benefit from work is working out where their limits really are. What can we push through and what is us just deciding it's all a bit hard. What's safe to push through, and what's risking injury. Lots of people let go. There is a lot to be said for just committing to one more move. Then one more. And so on until you actually come off trying or find yourself in a place where continuing on is actually quite feasible. Top ropes are great for feeling safe whilst pushing yourself. Trying to hold your head together and think about climbing well rather than flailing when pumped and scared is also good practice. Because we will all end up pumped and scared above gear at some point.

I know, I have a lifestyle that lets me actually climb lots on readily accessible real rock (and it's a great lifestyle choice, I highly recommend it!). However, I reckon even going to the gym or a bouldering wall is far more relevant to climbing training than hangboard or campus training. You get the same finger/forearm/cranking benefits of the hangboard but you are using the muscles in climbing relevant situations. Like having your feet on. Who does anything foot free on the rock except when showing off or having lost control? Muscles need to know what you actually want to do with them. And you need to be able to put the whole picture together.

shortman
9-Apr-2015
3:49:15 PM
ha. What you do with Strange Fruit Wendy? You go on the road for a bit?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
9-Apr-2015
3:51:52 PM
On 9/04/2015 shortman wrote:
>ha. What you do with Strange Fruit Wendy? You go on the road for a bit?
>
Slow day in my part of the world, ... so this does not compute...
?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
9-Apr-2015
3:53:57 PM
On 9/04/2015 Wendy wrote:
>The one bit of strength training I do think most climbers could benefit from is core training.
&
>The other thing that most climbers would benefit from is just more climbing.
&
>And mental hooha. Mental hooha has long been the thing holding me back (not the lack of a beastmaker in my life).

I reckon wendy has nailed it.

For me, core training is where it is at.
For me, more climbing is where it is at.
For me, the mental component is where it is at.
~> spoken from the perspective of an old fart!

As an aside;
I reckon the mental component is the greatest factor...




Sabu
9-Apr-2015
4:07:57 PM
All valid points Wendy. However, not all of us live next door to a world class crag nor is it feasible to get to the gym multiple times a week, and even if it were the $$ would add up fast. Hence, other options like a hangboard, woody or set of relevant exercises are needed.

The preference is of course always to climb and certainly the most gains I've noticed have been where I was in the pines for a few weeks but that is a luxury not all of us can have all the time.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
9-Apr-2015
4:17:06 PM
On 9/04/2015 Sabu wrote:
>The preference is of course always to climb and certainly the most gains
>I've noticed have been where I was in the pines for a few weeks but that
>is a luxury not all of us can have all the time.

Have I told you about the transference of offroad motorcycling skills to climbing endurance?
Heh, heh, heh.

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