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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 37
Author
Tick list for the fat and hairy
sleake
12/08/2014
1:55:00 PM
Thanks so much Wendy

I have never really considered Gramps, I honestly had no idea there was the range that it offers in moderate-ish grades, so have bailed to arraps instead each time ive been down there. My loss!!!!

Sorry if I seem to be scrubbing off all the classics - perhaps should not have said 'obscure' and 'grampians' in the same breath. Likewise Moonarie, apart from being about as far away from me as possible, isn't 'obscure'.

Perhaps 'destination routes' would be a better term!

thanks again.
kieranl
12/08/2014
2:00:16 PM
I could keep adding things at Rosea but here's a clanger that's not in the Select guide The Sloth 17 with Direct Finish 16 - it's in TheCrag. Good start and finish pitches and the middle pitch is so good and just goes on and on.
At Rosea you should aim on doing 2 routes a day to maximise the joy. I rarely achieve this nowadays.

Buffalo - Elizabethan 19/20 fantastic first pitch until the awesome bomb-bay section and 2 good slightly easier upper pitches.

Grinder
12/08/2014
2:53:02 PM
On 12/08/2014 Wendy wrote:
>
>If you really want obscure, big adventure.........

You've got to go for Red Tide (16) Pacific Ocean Wall , Nth Grampians - the biggest (1000+m) and most obscure adventure of them all.

(Shame on you gfdonc for not putting this on the top of your list)

Pat
12/08/2014
3:33:43 PM
Destination route? Have to put Balls Pyramid on that one. Its banned of course.
Cam McKenzie
12/08/2014
3:41:34 PM
On 12/08/2014 Pat wrote:
>Destination route? Have to put Balls Pyramid on that one. Its banned of
>course.

Didn't Dick Smith recently say that he'd pay people's fines if they wanted to climb it?

http://www.theaustralian.com.au/50th-birthday-news/in-1964-dick-smith-too-was-told-it-couldnt-be-done/story-fnmx97ei-1226986321176

"The spirit of Australian adventure is not so easily quelled, however. Having failed to overturn the climbing ban in the courts, Smith has supported a stealth campaign for others to retrace his steps, offering to pay the potential $5000 fine. Should a Lord Howe islander try, there’s a trophy and round-the-world ticket to be won. Two parties of climbers have sailed from Sydney so far this year to ­illegally scale the pyramid and other expeditions are being planned for when the wild winter weather eases."

IdratherbeclimbingM9
12/08/2014
3:57:10 PM
On 12/08/2014 Wendy wrote:
>(snip) the Initiation and Maharajah
>would be the most popular multi pitches on the Plateau and the routes you
>are most likely to have to queue for. Odd though the idea of queueing and
>Buff is.
?
The only time anyone ever needs to queue at Buffalo is when the VCC is there (heh, heh, heh); ... and even then, if you ask around the evening before, you can still pick the unvisited climbs of next day.

As an aside, Maharajah can be done as a single pitch with a 60m cord.


>(snip)
>If you really want obscure, big adventures, I'd try that route Kieran
>reccommends at Buff - the queen vic route. Or Green Gap pinnacle. or the
>chimney pots. But if you have never been to Moonarie/Buff/Gramps, I'd just
>pick a quiet time of year, go and jump on whatever takes your fancy. It
>would be hardpressed not to be awesome. Beautiful locations, big routes
>(relatively speaking), striking lines, great climbing and a reasonable
>chance of some excitement thrown in.
>
Queen Vic route?
Do you and kieranl have shares in sandbag.com?
;-)

Hmm. Unlikely not to be an 'obscure, big adventure' though, along with the few other similar routes in that vicinity...

sbm
12/08/2014
5:17:40 PM
On 11/08/2014 sleake wrote:
>Hey all, trying to put together a tick list of ballripping routes for the
>next year or so.
>
>20 - That Ewbank route in the southern highlands - giant corner - maby
>Hercules??

Yep. Also "Centerpoint" the climb next to it. Out at Perpendicular Rock on Wombeyan Caves Road. Makes the Wolgan look well travelled, accessible, and easy to navigate - we couldn't even find any photos of the cliff. I updated approach & descent notes for the crag on the sydney rockies site after we went there last year. Do it.

The good Dr
13/08/2014
9:12:33 AM
Grand Old Duke of York (17), Little River Gorge, East Gippsland.

gfdonc
13/08/2014
9:33:10 AM
On 12/08/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>As an aside, Maharajah can be done as a single pitch with a 60m cord.

Just don't fall off the top corner, though, you'd hit the ledge.

ajfclark
13/08/2014
9:45:46 AM
I prefer doing it as two pitches. That middle ledge is pretty comfortable.

shortman
13/08/2014
10:13:43 AM
On 13/08/2014 ajfclark wrote:
>I prefer doing it as two pitches. That middle ledge is pretty comfortable.

Agreed. Great place to spend half an hr and blow a number.
Cam McKenzie
13/08/2014
10:42:07 AM
On 13/08/2014 The good Dr wrote:
>Grand Old Duke of York (17), Little River Gorge, East Gippsland.
>
Some mates did this, started late, got benighted and spent the night shivering on a ledge (or in a chimney or something). Sounds perfect!
mikllaw
13/08/2014
10:58:44 AM
Classic easier routes in the Grose:-
The wind cries Mary 19-ish 5 pitches of "Cosmic County Trad" = cams and bolts at the Fortress.
Serendipidous Cracks at Bald Head (18?) sounds good, as does the classic 18/19 ridge below Hanging Rock Burramoko Buttress
PThomson
13/08/2014
11:37:11 AM
I can confirm that Serendipitous cracks is worthwhile. Kind of reminded me a bit of Big Trad Thong meets Scimitar (at The Wolgan), with pros and cons of both. The Direct finish (40m 20) is much better than the manky wet grade 17 chimney finish.

-Paul
mikllaw
13/08/2014
1:23:53 PM
Oh yes, Big Trad Thong (20) is great if you're tall and the weather is good

IdratherbeclimbingM9
13/08/2014
7:53:43 PM
On 13/08/2014 gfdonc wrote:
>On 12/08/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>As an aside, Maharajah can be done as a single pitch with a 60m cord.
>
>Just don't fall off the top corner, though, you'd hit the ledge.
>

You must protect it differently to me...
I reckon it would be hard to hit the 'belay ledge' unless you slip on the exit moves from it. Higher up if you fall (difficult as the angle backs off quite a bit), with rope stretch you could possibly touch the lower slab near the traverse move, but again you'd have to be running it out and gear possibly rip for that to happen?

The slab moves off the top of the flake-pedestal to topping out, have always been a two (or three), move run-out, then walk up. If you fell here the consequence is the same whether belayed from the base, or the original end of first pitch, in my opinion.
;-)

On 13/08/2014 shortman wrote:
>On 13/08/2014 ajfclark wrote:
>>I prefer doing it as two pitches. That middle ledge is pretty comfortable.
>
>Agreed. Great place to spend half an hr and blow a number.

... or longer.
~> Maharajah Tune


widewetandslippery
15/08/2014
10:46:41 AM
Original route on Masters Mountain Wolgan fits the bill perfectly for you. Pitch after pitch of sandy grade 17 offwidth.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 37
There are 37 messages in this topic.

 

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