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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 37
Author
Tick list for the fat and hairy
sleake
11/08/2014
1:35:56 PM
Hey all, trying to put together a tick list of ballripping routes for the next year or so.

Not just climbs, as I have plenty of those in my head - thunder crack, solomon, integral crack at booromba, but killer, memorable lines.

Would prefer choss to ringbolts, and if I get serious I reckon my paygrade would top out at about 20.

Here is my list in a vague grade order - but please add your thoughts from anywhere in OZ, if you look at the list im sure you will get the idea.

13 - Original route Mt Banks
17 - Lieben - Bungles
17 - Caucasous (sp?) corner - Bungles
17 - Angels fear to tread - Buff
18 - Flight of Pheonix - Bungles
18 - Knuckles - Wolgan
18 - Cactus - Wolgan
18 - Landslide chimmney - Doggie (bit scared of this one.......)
19 - Telstar - Blue mtns
20 - That Ewbank route in the southern highlands - giant corner - maby Hercules??
20 - Something out of the Grose????? Suggestions?
21 - that corner Crack at Engineers Cascade - (cant remember its name)


What other killer routes are out there - Moonarie??? Tassie???? Mt Warning??? never been - yet.....

Im sure there are more at Buffalo/everywhere else - please let me know of any!!!

Cheers, Steve

nmonteith
11/08/2014
2:09:29 PM
Candlestick (18ish) - Tassie
The Fear (17ish) - North Head (banned, but just do it)
Chimes of Freedom (17) - Frenchmans Cap
Simpleton (18) Stapylton, Grampians
Anything classic on Mt Rosea, Grampians
Wirilda (19) Asses Ears, Grampians
East Face (19) Crookneck (banned, but just do it)
climberman
11/08/2014
2:12:33 PM
On teh Wallaby Track at Hanging Rock in the Grose? 18?

Big G
11/08/2014
2:13:58 PM
bags not doing the landslide chimney with you steve.

btw folks he really does like choss!
Dr Nick
11/08/2014
2:27:37 PM
It's been a ridiculously long time since I did it, but Fuddy Duddy at Narrowneck I remember as a decent line.
sleake
11/08/2014
2:39:35 PM
Oh yeah - thanks Neil, forgot all about federation peak/frenchmans!

Thanks all - keep them coming!
One Day Hero
11/08/2014
4:06:40 PM
Go to Moonarie for a week mate, almost everything there is good. There's also a bunch of shit you need to do round Canberra, and get Dave to tow you up some stuff at Bungers. Also, go do Ozy.
One Day Hero
11/08/2014
4:08:58 PM
And another thing. You say you want killer lines, not just good routes......and then your list of "just good routes" is Integral, Thunder Crack, and Soloman. There aren't any better lines around than those three!?!?

shiltz
11/08/2014
4:43:01 PM
Passport to Insanity is also an impressive line with nothing harder than grade 20 if you don't mind the aiding interlude. An epic weekend if you also do the nearby big grade 14 (? can't remember the name at the moment) on the other day.

nmonteith
11/08/2014
6:25:04 PM
Carborundum Chimney (10++) into Trojan (13++) - Tibrogargon, QLD
Barbe Di Vendetta (18) Ben Lomond, TAS
Sealevel Traverse (16) Coles Bay, TAS
Ruby of India (15) Mt Maroon, QLD
Skyline Traverse (3) Yulludunida, Kaputar, NSW (solo)
South Arete Breadknife (11) Warrumbungles, NSW (illegal but just do it)
Mt Barney East Face (17++) QLD
Fuhrer Eliminate (21) North Gorge, Mt Buffalo, VIC

There is a few random and very rarely repeated routes in that list. You can work out which ones!

Wendy
11/08/2014
7:45:13 PM
On 11/08/2014 sleake wrote:
>Hey all, trying to put together a tick list of ballripping routes for the
>next year or so.
>
>Not just climbs, as I have plenty of those in my head - thunder crack,
>solomon, integral crack at booromba, but killer, memorable lines.
>
>Would prefer choss to ringbolts, and if I get serious I reckon my paygrade
>would top out at about 20.
>
>Here is my list in a vague grade order - but please add your thoughts
>from anywhere in OZ, if you look at the list im sure you will get the idea.


I'm not sure I do get the idea! How do these routes (other than the ones that are more choss than lines ...) differ from soloman etc?
>
>13 - Original route Mt Banks
>17 - Lieben - Bungles
>17 - Caucasous (sp?) corner - Bungles
>17 - Angels fear to tread - Buff
>18 - Flight of Pheonix - Bungles
>18 - Knuckles - Wolgan
>18 - Cactus - Wolgan
>18 - Landslide chimmney - Doggie (bit scared of this one.......)
>19 - Telstar - Blue mtns
>20 - That Ewbank route in the southern highlands - giant corner - maby
>Hercules??
>20 - Something out of the Grose????? Suggestions?
>21 - that corner Crack at Engineers Cascade - (cant remember its name)

You mean Catch the Wind? Great route, but still not clear how it's a killer route (and knuckle, cactus, angels, telstar for that matter) and those first ones are not? I'm not saying these aren't great routes, they are, but what makes them different to Solomon etc? Or from Watchtower Crack, Oceanoid, Firebug or Clockwork Orange Corner? Maybe you should try Five Fingered Mary? Or Unearthed?

Neil obviously understands something in your list, because I think he's listed a fair few more choss than lines too!

I'd say anything that catches your eye at Stapylton, Rosea, Asses Ears, Mt Difficult or Moonarie (all of which you can eye off from the walk or the base) would be amazing. With more killer line than choss. You don't really need any particular recommendations beyond the guidebook and what you see - when you are competent and prepared for the usual potential rock/gear/routefinding/descent dramas at least. I wouldn't say that to a new trad leader or someone pushing their limits! Buff is a little harder to check out before hand, but Maharjah and Sultan will still jump out at you driving up to the Cathedral, or there's Initiation and Status Quo. Ramadan and Rigadon were my favourite routes at Ben Lomand, and by the sounds of your taste for choss, you won't be as unimpressed as I was with the grotty access scramble and the weetbix last pitch or so.

I wouldn't be rushing out of my way to do Ruby of India. There's maybe 1 pitch of decent climbing in it. I'd just go to Frog where almost everything over 18 with stars is bloody fabulous. Except Peaches and Cream. Don't do it. I have no idea what drugs the guidebook authors were on. there's more than a few experiential "easy" routes as well.
martym
11/08/2014
8:44:31 PM
On 11/08/2014 Wendy wrote:

>I'm not sure I do get the idea! How do these routes (other than the ones
>that are more choss than lines ...) differ from soloman etc?

I think what he means is he's well aware of the classics... he's looking for something different... that's how I interpret it.

The fat & hairy bit...

nmonteith
11/08/2014
10:27:05 PM
The lines I chose have a mix of history, prominent natural features and a guarantee to have the route (and possibly the whole cliff) to yourself. It is a list of some of the most memorable climbing days I have had (with a couple of routes that are still on my wish list)
sleake
12/08/2014
8:43:37 AM
On 11/08/2014 Wendy wrote:
>On 11/08/2014 sleake wrote:
>>Hey all, trying to put together a tick list of ballripping routes for
>the
>>next year or so.
>>
>>Not just climbs, as I have plenty of those in my head - thunder crack,
>>solomon, integral crack at booromba, but killer, memorable lines.
>>
>>Would prefer choss to ringbolts, and if I get serious I reckon my paygrade
>>would top out at about 20.
>>
>>Here is my list in a vague grade order - but please add your thoughts
>>from anywhere in OZ, if you look at the list im sure you will get the
>idea.
>
>
>I'm not sure I do get the idea! How do these routes (other than the ones
>that are more choss than lines ...) differ from soloman etc?
>>
>>13 - Original route Mt Banks
>>17 - Lieben - Bungles
>>17 - Caucasous (sp?) corner - Bungles
>>17 - Angels fear to tread - Buff
>>18 - Flight of Pheonix - Bungles
>>18 - Knuckles - Wolgan
>>18 - Cactus - Wolgan
>>18 - Landslide chimmney - Doggie (bit scared of this one.......)
>>19 - Telstar - Blue mtns
>>20 - That Ewbank route in the southern highlands - giant corner - maby
>>Hercules??
>>20 - Something out of the Grose????? Suggestions?
>>21 - that corner Crack at Engineers Cascade - (cant remember its name)
>
>You mean Catch the Wind? Great route, but still not clear how it's a killer
>route (and knuckle, cactus, angels, telstar for that matter) and those
>first ones are not? I'm not saying these aren't great routes, they are,
>but what makes them different to Solomon etc? Or from Watchtower Crack,
>Oceanoid, Firebug or Clockwork Orange Corner? Maybe you should try Five
>Fingered Mary? Or Unearthed?
>
>Neil obviously understands something in your list, because I think he's
>listed a fair few more choss than lines too!
>
>I'd say anything that catches your eye at Stapylton, Rosea, Asses Ears,
>Mt Difficult or Moonarie (all of which you can eye off from the walk or
>the base) would be amazing. With more killer line than choss. You don't
>really need any particular recommendations beyond the guidebook and what
>you see - when you are competent and prepared for the usual potential rock/gear/routefindi
>g/descent dramas at least. I wouldn't say that to a new trad leader or
>someone pushing their limits! Buff is a little harder to check out before
>hand, but Maharjah and Sultan will still jump out at you driving up to
>the Cathedral, or there's Initiation and Status Quo. Ramadan and Rigadon
>were my favourite routes at Ben Lomand, and by the sounds of your taste
>for choss, you won't be as unimpressed as I was with the grotty access
>scramble and the weetbix last pitch or so.
>
>I wouldn't be rushing out of my way to do Ruby of India. There's maybe
>1 pitch of decent climbing in it. I'd just go to Frog where almost everything
>over 18 with stars is bloody fabulous. Except Peaches and Cream. Don't
>do it. I have no idea what drugs the guidebook authors were on. there's
>more than a few experiential "easy" routes as well.



All I mean is that there is always someone keen to go and climb cool, easy access classic shorter lines, and they get done by 'default' Watchtower Crack, Oceanoid, Firebug are all perfect examples. Same as a 'week at frog'. Sure, frog is amazing, but all begins to blur into a haze of mashed toes and bloody knuckles.

Just looking for great routes that might be a bit more obscure.

Thanks to everyone - I had no real idea of the treasures that the Gramps held for a pleb like me - never spent any real time there.

Cheers, Steve
gfdonc
12/08/2014
9:02:30 AM
Your list started off a little NSW-centric, but we'll fix that.

The Initiation at Buffalo.
Rosea: let's be more specific: Heretic and Debutante are absolute 'musts', The Ascension if you can push a grade.
The Seventh Pillar at Taipan if you can include some aiding (still super classic).
mikllaw
12/08/2014
9:20:48 AM
Bigger than Ben Hur (20) in the Grose is average climbing, but a great line
Cam McKenzie
12/08/2014
10:27:14 AM
On 12/08/2014 gfdonc wrote:

>Rosea: let's be more specific: Heretic and Debutante are absolute 'musts',
>The Ascension if you can push a grade.

Diane (18) and Last Rites (19) are awesome as well. Forget about Mixed Climb if the others are in your pay grade.

As for Tassie, anything on Frenchman's, Fed Peak or the Geryon / Acropolis would probably fit the bill.

Eduardo Slabofvic
12/08/2014
11:01:31 AM
On 12/08/2014 sleake wrote:
>>Just looking for great routes that might be a bit more obscure.
>

In QLD, I second Ruby. It will deliver on your guidelines. Phadra is also quite worthwhile. I think it got retro-bolted, so its reputation may be less justified, but it would still be a hoot.

I would also recommend an ascent of the East Face Route on Crookneck (don't let the climbing ban stop you). That route give new meaning to the term "choss". And while you're there chuck a lap on Tibrogargen and Beewhar as well.
Wendy
12/08/2014
12:53:08 PM
On 12/08/2014 sleake wrote:

>
>
>
>All I mean is that there is always someone keen to go and climb cool,
>easy access classic shorter lines, and they get done by 'default' Watchtower
>Crack, Oceanoid, Firebug are all perfect examples. Same as a 'week at frog'.
>Sure, frog is amazing, but all begins to blur into a haze of mashed toes
>and bloody knuckles.
>
>Just looking for great routes that might be a bit more obscure.
>
>Thanks to everyone - I had no real idea of the treasures that the Gramps
>held for a pleb like me - never spent any real time there.

There's nothing obscure about the recommendations for the Grampians - open the selected guide and look for the 3 star multipitches and there they are. Although if you haven't been there, I wouldn't let that stop you, they are really great. They probably get more ascents than Solomon (when I was at Piddo last November, I was amazed how quiet it was compared to when I lived there), but they are still rarely busy crags. My favs at Rosea are Heretic and Hard Times, although when I finally get around to doing the Ascention, that may change. And the Initiation and Maharajah would be the most popular multi pitches on the Plateau and the routes you are most likely to have to queue for. Odd though the idea of queueing and Buff is. My fav at Moonarie is Downwind of Angels, but it also probably falls into your easy to do category. But again, most the classics are worthwhile. Flying Buttress (don't pussy foot around the side of the business like lots of people, the real line is obvious), Pagoda, Hangover Layback, Icarus, Pine Crack, Miles from Nowhere etc. Don't bother with the grade 18 traverses by Pagoda that for reasons beyond my comprehension also have 3 stars. Nor the big picture. Reality Factor isn't that great either and I can take or leave outside chance. The (not so) easy corners in the Ramparts are good, but Shangri La is a bit blah. Knee deep chimney will be an adventure.

One of the things I really like about trad climbing, particularly above the mid teens and on bigger cliffs, is crowds are almost never a problem. Don't go to any of the above at Easter/school holidays and they will prob be quiet as. Except Taipan. Being more than a bit bolted, it gets a lot more attention.

If you really want obscure, big adventures, I'd try that route Kieran reccommends at Buff - the queen vic route. Or Green Gap pinnacle. or the chimney pots. But if you have never been to Moonarie/Buff/Gramps, I'd just pick a quiet time of year, go and jump on whatever takes your fancy. It would be hardpressed not to be awesome. Beautiful locations, big routes (relatively speaking), striking lines, great climbing and a reasonable chance of some excitement thrown in.
gfdonc
12/08/2014
1:48:47 PM
On 12/08/2014 Cam McKenzie wrote:
>Diane (18) and Last Rites (19) are awesome as well. Forget about Mixed
>Climb if the others are in your pay grade.

Didn't include Diane as you end up crossing over into Heretic. It's good though.

Last Rites, (smacks forehead) of course, how could I forget that one. Possibly the best 19 anywhere, The Lonely Race at Barbican is a contender though.

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