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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 66
Abseiling tips, tricks, habits and advice

4:31:48 PM
I was more pointing out that every time we abseil under calm conditions we're practising for when we're under pressure and that on that basis, most recreational climbers get a good deal of regular practise relative to the amount of under pressure abseiling they do.
One Day Hero
5:36:17 PM
On 26/08/2014 jpo wrote:
>I only do abseiling

Get off our forum, you bum-first weeny! Your whole sport is the shit bit tacked onto the end of our sport, which we'd rather not do but sometimes have to.
5:36:24 PM
Always use a handy way to remember your abseiling check list
Correct order; essential for every checklist
Remember all the stuff you need to check
Organise your check list in a handy to remember way in the correct order
Nemonic… a way to remember your checklist, especially when under pressure
Yeehaw — the thing to say as you step into the sickening void to quash that funny feeling there is something you didn't remember
Mnemonic; is how it's actually spelt
8:43:24 PM
On 27/08/2014 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 26/08/2014 jpo wrote:
>>I only do abseiling
>Get off our forum, you bum-first weeny! Your whole sport is the shit bit
>tacked onto the end of our sport, which we'd rather not do but sometimes
>have to.

Oh yeah happy birthday (apparently) did you go somewhere interesting?
Your temperament was conspicuously absent for a while..
9:24:12 PM
Was nice and quiet... OHD calm down. Save your rants for talk back radio where your quality comments would fit right in!
10:53:14 PM
BFW here.

I'm thinking that abseiling as a sport in its own right is quite different to abseiling after a clinmb after reading this discussion.

If you are just abseiling you have some advantages over climbers. You can carry more gear for abseil use. I use some steel pieces and an industrial sling that would hold an elephant. If I can't set up a bomb proof anchor, I don't do it. Won't do it in the rain. Lots of chances to opt out that climbers may not have.

Don't like the mnemonic approach. You must understand the function of every component and KNOW that each is correctly set up before committing. For me, the mnemonic dumbs it down when it should be a deliberate effort of intellect.

Interesting that the fear from some climbers is of the utter dependence on the gear. I can't see the anchor failing or the rope breaking. I hope abseil devices don't break. While attached to the rope I feel protected from gravity. I reckon the riskiest part of sport abseiling is when working at the top of the cliff when not roped to something.

As for backups, I use two. A short French prusik loop below the device and attached to the leg loop. This sets up the basic abseiling motion. My right hand is extended to below the leg loop and is the main brake. My left hand rests above the prusik and slides it down as I descend. Anytime I want to stop I allow the the prusik to lock and I rest.

I also install a longer prusik (a Klemheist) above the device. Initially I make this loose so it won't grip. When I want extra security as in free hanging, I tighten the loop and make it ready to grip if I should slide. It also works to take my full weight if I wish. It's a bugger to unload (impossible to force). You have to transfer your weight to above the loop before you can loosen it.

Doing a free hanging abseil with these two backups is slow but secure. You develop a nice touch that keeps things flowing. The prussiks are lovely controls.

I think a big point of difference between sport abseiling and abseiling after a climb is that in the former the object is to be on rock, to be hanging out on the side of a boulder or slab. It's a great new way to see the bush. So you don't do it quickly. You stop to use binoculars, take a picture, make a phone call or just look around.

My abseiling journey started from reading Chockstone. I had to learn how to use ropes and harness to do a major tree lopping job that's taken me three years. And I've discovered the joys of scaling boulders and slabs, even if bum first.

So thankyou to whoever put the site together. The Guide and Tech Tips have been great for me. (But I won't touch the rap bolts I've found at various Vic sites you've mentioned.)


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There are 66 messages in this topic.


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