Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

Hardest Australian Trad Onsight

naticafe

8-Oct-2012
5:26:55 PM

meant to post that under duglash, doh.

widewetandslippery

8-Oct-2012
5:47:24 PM

how good is the second corner pitch blasting out the bottemless corner up. Rate it in my favourite routes ever.


E. Wells

8-Oct-2012
6:57:54 PM

here here, Im glad to hear someone else did the direct and found the same amount of gear as me........Also getting to the top and coiling the ropes before realising we had one more 'pitch' was memorable!

simey

9-Oct-2012
6:32:17 PM

On 8/10/2012 naticafe wrote:
>Having done Lieben - with modern gear and boots, and found it one of the
>most impressive routes I have done, I vote it the hardest australian onsight.
>Go do it in sandshoes and tell me I'm wrong.
>
>I remember my partner, Brendan Emmerson, doing the first pitch direct
>- about 17, dodgy rock at times and pretty much fu%k all gear for 40m.
>I followed him up, with growing respect for what he'd done, got to the
>belay and said 'good lead' more than I had ever meant it before, and he
>said 'Not as good as the one you're about to do'. I looked up the shallow
>groove and was very worried. Fortunately he was wrong - it was tricky,
>but there was gear.
>
>Seriously, I'm keen to see some pastpointing. I wouldn't have gotten into
>climbing in the 60's or early 70's. I would have thought, this is fun but
>it is too scary. Lieben in sandshoes, with gear of the day, would be fu8ing
>hardcore. It is still, given the context, the most impressive route I have
>ever done.

Interesting and inspiring perspective.

Wendy

9-Oct-2012
6:41:29 PM

Does that make Lieben even worse than Man o' War, Douglas?

I love modern gear. I've always been immensely happy I discovered climbing after it had been invented.

simey

10-Oct-2012
6:20:26 PM

Personally I don't get too hung up on the differences between onsighting and flashing a route. In fact I usually try and get whatever beta I can on a climb providing it doesn't involve hanging off a rope to suss things out. My main aim is to lead the route free on my first attempt.

In the eighties the term onsight wasn't in common use and you either 'flashed' a route or you didn't. I suppose my disillusionment with the term onsight is because people happily claim the onsight with all the the gear and/or the 'draws already in place. That to me seems a far greater advantage than having watched someone climb the route or having learned some beta about a particular move.


E. Wells

10-Oct-2012
7:28:18 PM

Thats interesting because I always assumed an onsight whether trad or sport was without any gear inplace. (stucknut excepted)

Olbert

11-Oct-2012
9:55:21 AM

What if the route is permadrawed (or has a bunch of fixed gear)?


Eduardo Slabofvic

11-Oct-2012
10:17:34 AM

That's a wankpoint

gfdonc

11-Oct-2012
1:31:03 PM

In polite company that would be a 'tosspoint', but your vernacular fits the context.


Muki

11-Oct-2012
6:53:03 PM

On 11/10/2012 Olbert wrote:
>What if the route is permadrawed (or has a bunch of fixed gear)?

Gear point
Grey point

I know the hardest trad route, try to Onsight it when HB finally sends !

12-Oct-2012
12:36:29 PM

I think another old school contender would have to be Blade Ridge on Federation Peak. Several days walking into wildest SW Tassie and then a plunge down through the scrub to the base and over 1000 feet of climbing to the summit.

crazyjohn

12-Oct-2012
2:38:39 PM

On 12/10/2012 BA wrote:
>I think another old school contender would have to be Blade Ridge on Federation
>Peak. Several days walking into wildest SW Tassie and then a plunge down
>through the scrub to the base and over 1000 feet of climbing to the summit.

Yeah Dannie Quade and Ollie climbed Blade Ridge into the NW Face of Feder this year. They followed this up with Dannie letting the end of the rope pop through his belay device lowering Ollie off a route in Squamish. Ollie is on crutches now. Its all about the acid, man! Lets you do crazy things but rots the brain a little bit.

There are 93 messages in this topic.