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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 24
Author
Finger cracks at buffalo
Steve M
11/03/2014
9:01:32 PM
Climbed beechworth bakery at Mt Pilot a couple of weeks ago and was reminded again how great a feeling it is to climb a stellar meandering finger crack. Any stand out examples at Buffalo people can recommend ??

dave h.
12/03/2014
12:30:18 AM
Lift Girls Lament.

Short, hard, bowel-busting exposure. Edit: hard for me. Easy for some (22 from memory).

pmonks
12/03/2014
7:37:59 AM
Where Angels Fear to Tread? Never been on it, but I've been assured by many people that it's a beautifully delicate finger crack the whole way.

ajfclark
12/03/2014
8:18:17 AM
Not really a splitter finger crack up a face, but the start of The Initiation is fingersish up a shallow corner/fat flake sort of thing. The rest is worth climbing too.
kieranl
12/03/2014
9:01:51 AM
Buffalo doesn't really do stellar meandering finger-cracks. Initiation and Hard Rain are probably as close as it gets. One that I often plug but no-one seems to do is Elizabethan with 3 long pitches. Sustained about 17-18 except for the top of the first pitch where there are 2 options - free the short knife-blade traverse, supposedly freed at 21 but it looks way harder or the short overhanging flared chimney at about 18-19 (sorry, nothing like a finger-crack at this point).

shiltz
12/03/2014
9:29:01 AM
You could take a look at Flair
Wendy
12/03/2014
10:19:38 AM
I was thinking you should just go to Squamish or the valley ...

Silk and Satin is a finger crack in a corner, the top 10m or so are stellar. THere is a little moss at the start and the middle is good for Buffalo. Beowulf is a great curving line, varies in size, is fingers at the top.

Lift Girls Lament, like Paralax is one of those cracks that tapers and therefore inevitably goes through everybody's nightmare size. Mine is purple camalots.

shortman
12/03/2014
10:54:18 AM
On 12/03/2014 Wendy wrote:

>therefore inevitably goes through everybody's nightmare size. Mine is purple
>camalots.

Small purple?
Wendy
12/03/2014
11:09:34 AM
they are some fingers you've got if you call large purple a finger crack ...

It's debatable which is the harder size though ... ratttly fingers or offwidths ...pure, steep rattly finger cracks are nails, the feet are shallow, the fingers insecure and hard work the maintain.

shortman
12/03/2014
11:24:00 AM
On 12/03/2014 Wendy wrote:
>they are some fingers you've got if you call large purple a finger crack
>...
>
yeah yeah....you were talkin about a tapering crack...

Superstu
12/03/2014
3:47:32 PM
I can't remember any stellar finger cracks at buffalo but I can rattle off a list of very sweet finger cracks in the blue mountains. Judas, TDM, Transistor, Phoenix, Die fox die.. Just for starters.

JamesMc
12/03/2014
8:11:32 PM
Top pitch of Bonaparte. Do 3 Men & a Dyke while you're out Here.
hairy1
12/03/2014
10:03:08 PM
Elizabethan is a great route though the current access is probably almost as hard as the route (had the intention to work out a way to rap in and maybe clean it up a bit .... but now I live in Darwin....)

The overhanging flared chimney would be a solid 19 if that is it's grade....The last pitch is a manky doddle but the lower 3 or 4 (my memory fails me) are all good - quite sustained

tim
Steve M
12/03/2014
10:59:13 PM
Overhanging flared chimney..... Angels .......not quite meandering finger cracks. Some great recommendations, although anything with desperate or awkward in the description goes to the bottom of the list.

How can the little cliff at mt pilot throw up a great uniform finger crack (meandering an essential for me as I'm to weak to place with out a decent stance) and there isn't a couple of standout pitches in buffalo ?
kieranl
12/03/2014
11:24:18 PM
On 12/03/2014 Steve M wrote:
>Overhanging flared chimney..... Angels .......not quite meandering finger
>cracks. Some great recommendations, although anything with desperate or
>awkward in the description goes to the bottom of the list.
>
>How can the little cliff at mt pilot throw up a great uniform finger crack
>(meandering an essential for me as I'm to weak to place with out a decent
>stance) and there isn't a couple of standout pitches in buffalo ?
The one we all left out was Pintle with LHV. Buffalo just doesn't do good straight-in fractures at finger-width for any distance. Other things get thrown into the mix. You need to be able to cope with these without stressing about them.
pecheur
13/03/2014
7:14:41 AM
On 12/03/2014 Steve M wrote:
>Overhanging flared chimney..... Angels .......not quite meandering finger
>cracks. Some great recommendations, although anything with desperate or
>awkward in the description goes to the bottom of the list.
>
?? Hunh? That's possibly the worst non-deliberately sandbagged description of Angels ever.
Wendy
13/03/2014
9:20:39 AM
On 12/03/2014 Steve M wrote:

>How can the little cliff at mt pilot throw up a great uniform finger crack
>(meandering an essential for me as I'm to weak to place with out a decent
>stance) and there isn't a couple of standout pitches in buffalo ?

You might want to just top rope Lift Girls then. There's not a rest on it, even though it's only 10m long. I find the first 2m solid to place gear on and the last m not too bad and the middle 5m or so every piece is an exercise in controlled terror pulling up the rope.

shiltz
13/03/2014
10:28:30 AM
If you lead it then first person down on rap should think very carefully where to belay from. It's game on from the first move so falling on your belayer is a real risk throughout the first half of the climb.
Tastrad
13/03/2014
11:12:47 AM
This is what I would call examples of stellar finger cracks.
http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/2014/03/13/stellar-finger-cracks/

shortman
13/03/2014
11:22:00 AM
On 12/03/2014 kieranl wrote:

>The one we all left out was Pintle with LHV. Buffalo just doesn't do good
>straight-in fractures at finger-width for any distance. Other things get
>thrown into the mix. You need to be able to cope with these without stressing
>about them.

Pintle LHV is a bit bigger than fingers and I got big ones.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 24
There are 24 messages in this topic.

 

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