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General Climbing Discussion

Poll Option Votes Graph
Yes 33
No 19

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 32
Should burnley be reset as a traverse venue?

White Trash
7:54:16 PM
On 25/09/2013 stugang wrote:
>am pretty pissed off that the character, history and intent of the venue was changed overnight on a whim.

on a modern bouldering wall? you no doubt can imagine how the traddies feel about the retrobolting of their routes then?
7:57:43 PM
Guilty - of good intentions and trying something new, with the knowledge that Burnley is an important place for a lot of people.

The last reset was catalysed by a generous grant from Parks for $4000 for new holds (thanks Uncarved Block), bolts, t-nuts and materials for the new volumes (thanks Macpac). A lot of people were involved in preparing the grant application, building the volumes and planning the reset, through the VCC and associated forums (facebook page and website). It's good to see chock stoners getting involved as well.

We decided to reset with a focus on up problems in order to get more new holds on the wall, use the volumes in interesting ways and manage traffic on the wall differently as noted earlier. All the setting by volunteers over the three day reset was really appreciated, and we have got some really good problems up with brand new high quality non polished holds. We have black traverses and black filler holds on walls 2 and 3 to try and get holds on every t-nut (still some work to be done here). This can be a challenge when trying to set traverses and up problems with limited colours and hold sets.

Happy to acknowledge that the new set up is a move away from the tradition, and it may not suit everyone's expectations. It is worth noting that a lot of people who use Burnley now have no knowledge of the origins of the facility. This doesn't mean traditions shouldn't be respected, but they are not immune from being questioned or pushed from time to time.

In terms of appraising the experiment, this thread is useful feedback. From the poll it looks like a fairly even spread, noting that an opt in forum does not make a representative sample. And the walls are certainly super popular - we had over 70 people attend the afternoon we reopened, and it has been pretty busy in the evenings I've been there. Still, it could be that traverses need better representation on one or more of the walls. My own view is that wall 2 lacks the height for really good up problems but works really well for traverses. Wall 3 has more height and the angle is great for power / power endurance problems. I'm sure it can be worked out through future resets.

A final note, 50 holds were stolen before they could be nutted behind the walls. Please keep an eye on the place and help to look after it.

Steve Pollard

rock weasel
9:58:08 PM
My vote is for traverse problems being the major focus, with up problems being created around them.

I've stopped using the walls after the reset - short problems hold no interest for me.

11:57:48 PM
Well I personally love training on traverses and I think walk 2 is an ideal setting, let's let it sit for a whe longer and during the next reset we can change it up a little... I think our biggest problem is the theft of holds as when i was setting down there during the last reset I would set the routes over a few sessions, it was nice to be able to fine tune over a few days...
11:09:57 AM
I think the current incarnation is great, more anything would make it even better, and sincere thanks to all those who worked so hard to make the latest version of Burnley what it is.

11:26:24 AM
Rather than try to get all the new holds on the wall at once, why not keep some aside so new problems can be set in 6-12 months time when existing holds start to wear.

I still think that Burnley should be a training venue. Otherwise it is competing directly with bouldering caves at climbing gyms and taking away their revenues.
2:24:20 PM
Burnley has always been a venue where endurance could be trained to maintain fitness for climbing routes. I'd certainly be in favour of returning to a traverse based setting of the walls. However, it probably wouldn't be too difficult to have a mixture of both traverses and boulder problems.

9:10:12 PM
I went bouldering at Burnley the other night and sampled the new controversial boulder problems.

Thanks for those who put so much work into the reset but, I wasn't convinced by the new Burnley and quietly wished for the original back. Perhaps even the very original wall back. From the grant, is there enough money left for a fourth wall? Dedicated to one ultimate traverse? Designed for those who aspire to climb long Taipan classics, big walls or Euro climbing? Or even alpine climbing?

As for managing traffic on the wall, I don't see how five boys hovering around the first moves of a V3, slapping continuously for the first holds and boasting about their perceived abilities reduces the congestion on the wall. At least with traverses people fall off at various spots along the wall, clearing the way for others to continue along.

An early post also suggested linking up problems with easy down problems as a means to training endurance or power endurance, but this would cause the same wall traffic congestion.

What's been offered now is a bouldering wall that allows climbers to train 4-6 move problems. How high does that get me up Taipan? To the belay ledge on Mr. J I suspect.

Please, Burnley Gods, review this climbing equivalent malarkey as I want my power endurance back.
5:58:00 AM
Hi Guys,

As the main culprit for the change at Burnley, I am really happy to see this topic. It is really great to get feedback so we can always improve the wall.

Before the reset we had quite a few meetings regarding changing the system. To find a 'possible' better option that would represent how climbing has changed. When the original traverse was around bouldering really didn't exist in the same extent as it does now. Our aim was to bring the wall closer inline with how climbing has evolved. This meant more bouldering.

The grand scheme 'eventually' was to set up problems with single colours (as we have now) and then fill in the gaps with black holds. At this point we would set the traverses using coloured tape and setters could technically adjust the black holds to fit the climb they were setting. This way, it is possible to double the amount of climbs on the wall. Unfortunately after the reset and the comp on Sunday, we only had 1 or 2 people helping out with the traverses. They mostly worked on fixing up wall 1 and insuring there were enough black holds filling up the walls. I think at this point motivation ran low and no one spent time taping up the traverses. (Anyone who can set and is willing to put in the time is most welcome, just send through an email to and I am sure something can be organised.)

I hope this clears up the intent of the reset. We were not remaking Burnley as a bouldering only wall but trying to make it more accessible to a larger community. Sadly the final execution of our master plan petered out at the end.

Best Regards,
Gareth Montgomery
10:12:57 AM
Hi all,

Firstly, i didn't mean to start this thread to flame anyone. I know most of the folks involved in this recent reset, and i also set some rubbish problems myself. The poll is designed to get an idea of what people expect from the venue. I don't feel this was ever publicly vetted before the changes.

Personally i feel the up problems are good on the 45 & really bad on the 30. The 30 degree wall is a mess, with the volumes completely wrecking the angle. Most of the problems are also 4 moves long. There is also not enough skin friendly decent/medium holds on either wall for good traverses to be taped. I have taped one on the 45, and have done one other. It's annoying however that the options are so limited. IMHO I would remove most of the crap black holds as they are not being used and are a waste of T nuts. I would appreciate if all the skin friendly holds stored in the back of the wall were put up.

Anyhow this is just my thoughts, and i understand that it may not coincide with others.
10:23:21 AM
When you say " you had quite a few meetings regarding the reset" who was this with and was it made open to the climbing community and Burnley wall uses to have there opinion and say? All that I seemed to of seen and heard was that Burnley got a grant, holds and volumes donated/bought then a date for stripping and resetting. It just seems to be that the majority of the people involved in the recent reset and organized the reset already had there mind made up on what they wanted and went that way with the mindset that there will be quite a few people disapproving of the changes but "they will get over it...." Which was said to me by one of the involved.

3:17:53 PM
I agree with Kent. The 45-wall up problems are fine. The 30 degree wall is not really suited to up problems and a reset would be a good idea. 8 traverses in the range 17 to 27 would be perfect.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 32
There are 32 messages in this topic.


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