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Australia's first 9a(35)


IdratherbeclimbingM9

29-Mar-2016
1:25:39 PM

On 29/03/2016 PeterW wrote:
>On 29/03/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>>Grade 24 ...Claw solving the crux offwidth roof moves on Country Road
>at Buffalo
>
>Right route, but it was Nic Taylor who led it. (I can vouch for this as
>I was on the other end of the rope!)

&

On 29/03/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>>>>Right route, but it was Nic Taylor who led it. (I can vouch for this
>as I was on the other end of the rope!)
>
>In his book ...Claw claims to have solved the crux ...and invented ' levitation
>' before Randy Levit...and then politely fell off above the crux because
>the route was Nicks route ...
>

At least mikl gives credit to Nic in this post, though his date of 1977 is wrong, as my guidebook says he did it with Peter Watson in Jan 1976...

Oh, and for further clarification, Mikl says in his book (page 47) I'd like to say I stepped off as it was Nic's route, but I was about to fall anyway.

ima.seriousyoungliza

29-Mar-2016
1:40:28 PM

OK ...then lets meat half way and modify the 24 section of this lot...

Grade 17 .........?

Grade 18 ......... Ewbank ? Jackson ? Fang ?

Grade 19 ..........Dewhirst ?

Grade 20 ?

Grade 21 .... the climbing on Janiceps before Claw freed the whole thing ?

Grade 22 ... .... Vallhalla in Queensland with a bit of aid ?

Grade 23 ...Henry Barber freeing the pin scars on Insomnia at Frog

Grade 24 ...Country Road ...Buffalo ...Crux roof offwidth solved by Claw ... route then led to top by Taylor

Grade 25....First thought top be freeing of Dreadnought by Pikesta
..........then Ostler by Pikesta at Bunderleer ....but generally agreed to be The Undertaker free at Araps by Claw and Java .... BUT ....there is a myth that Henry was climbing 25 at the base of Manic Depressive at Bunderleer in the days before a rock stack appeared at the base of the route....dunno ....

Grade 26....Procul free at Araps by Kim Carrigan

Grade 27...Fox ? Denim ? Yesterday ? at Araps by Kim Carrigan

Grade 28....Kim claimed it on Fox and Yesterday direct maybe ....BUT Cobwebs by Mark Mike ?( this name appears in the litterature a few times ) Moorehead is generally regarded / celebrated as Australias first 28 ...

Grade 29... India.....Araps ...Kim Carrigan

Grade 30....Masada ? ...Ethiopia ? ....Araps ...Kim Carrigan

Grade 31 ...Serious Young Lizards ....
aka The Ring Route aka Lord of the Rings....Kim Carrigan & Stefan Glowaz

Grade 32 ... Punks in the Gym ...Martin Scheel / Wolfgang Gullich / Jerry Moffat / Andy Pollit...

Grade 33 ...? ... Garth Miller ?

Grade 34 ...? .... Cosseys ? ...

You and BA should be swarming all over the other ones

ima.seriousyoungliza

29-Mar-2016
1:47:55 PM

Prolly have to give 21 to Ewbank

'...Many of the climbs which Ewbank put up are still regarded as classics of Australian climbing. Amongst these climbs, Janicepts (21) at Mount Piddington stood as the hardest climb in Australia for many years...'

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Ewbank_(climber)

Claw did a bit of gardening but the grade remained 21 ...

ima.seriousyoungliza

29-Mar-2016
2:09:11 PM

GRADE 21

>>>Oh, and for further clarification,

'...Back in 1973 or so, and at the age of 15 you freed a route called "Janicepts" (21), in the Blue Mountains. At the time it was the hardest route in Australia with 3 rests, and it stayed 21 after being freed...'

http://www.chockstone.org/Interviews/MLaw.htm

OK ...so when Ewbank did it ...it was 21 M0 .......Claw freed the M0 bits but ...

ima.seriousyoungliza

29-Mar-2016
2:14:11 PM

GRADE 22

http://climbinghistoryoz.blogspot.com.au/2005/10/queensland-takes-lead.html

'...White wrote: ‘The route is significantly harder than all other routes I have ever experienced. The climb is awkward and sustained jamming up a 30 degree overhanging corner-crack which runs straight into a roof (aid). There are no rests. Once the roof is reached, the idea is to hang off one lousy hand jam and quickly place the first aid—you have approximately 15 seconds to solve the situation.’ They called it Valhalla and graded it 22 M2—the hardest in Australia. A few months later, Bryden Allen eliminated the aid moves from The Kraken at Wirindi (formerly Mt Piddington) in the Blue Mountains, creating Australia’s second grade 22 climb. White made the second free ascent of The Kraken a short time later, confirming that Valhalla was its equal...'

..................................................

GRADE 23

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=20303

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/frog-buttress/west/route/11795443

Insomnia @ Frog Buttress

'...One of the first 23s in Australia! Although previously downgraded, this route has lost non of its spice over the years. Up the brilliant V-groove with phenomenally classy bridging and face work, capped by a desperate mantle on to the ledge. From here, grunt up the classic off-width to an easy finish! Originally aided by Staszewski and Killop, they backed off realizing that a better climber might one day free this amazing line. All were stunned and inspired when it was freed by Henry Barber...'

ima.seriousyoungliza

29-Mar-2016
2:51:05 PM

GRADE 24

thats wot ima talkin about

'...At Mt Buffalo Gorge Nic Taylor found an amazingly clean and smooth roof crack (most Buffalo granite is rounded, crystally, sharp, crumbly and gross), on the south side of the gorge.

Greg, Nic and I rapped into a hanging belay below the crack and worked the hell out of the thing. I solved the roof crux using a hand-fist stack (this technique was named Leavittation ten years later by Randy Leavitt) and pulled around the lip. I'd like to say I stepped off as it was Nic's route, but I was about to fall anyway. On the next shot Nick pulled the lip and then fell; he slipped out of his (slightly loose) Whillans harness and swung upside down with the harness caught behind his knees. He shot up it soon after and Country Road became Australia's first grade 24...'

Claw@
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=1&MessageID=17730&Replies=5&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost

>>>Yes, hand fist stack with arms crossed, then get a high knee jamb
>>>Then remove fist, leaving the hand in an arm-bar position. Place free hand higher in arm bar, then move lower hand up into a fist jamb against the flat hand

And tongue firmly between teeth ... bent to the right ...

; )

ima.seriousyoungliza

29-Mar-2016
3:19:30 PM

17 ?
18 ? FANG ?
19 ? MORFORD ?
20 ?
33 ? GREY AREA ?
34 ?

dalai

29-Mar-2016
3:49:09 PM

Wasn't Witch at Camels the first 17? Thought it was mentions as such in an early guide, though may have been first Victorian 17...

kieranl

29-Mar-2016
4:04:19 PM

On 29/03/2016 dalai wrote:
>Wasn't Witch at Camels the first 17? Thought it was mentions as such in
>an early guide, though may have been first Victorian 17...

North-west face of Federation Peak - 1961. Maybe some NSW climbs pre-dating that.
Desperation Crack at Buffalo used to be 17 but I see on TheCrag is now 16.

dalai

29-Mar-2016
4:16:47 PM

On 29/03/2016 kieranl wrote:
>North-west face of Federation Peak - 1961. Maybe some NSW climbs pre-dating
>that.
>Desperation Crack at Buffalo used to be 17 but I see on TheCrag is now
>16.

Yes, have since seen Witch was Victoria's first 17 only...

widewetandslippery

29-Mar-2016
4:53:17 PM

I was under the impression 17 Leiben in the bungles, 20 clockwork orange shipley, 22 Phallengar mt blackheath.

One Day Hero

29-Mar-2016
5:08:07 PM

Wasn't the first 20 meant to be Soloman at Piddo? Not that it feels particularly stiff at the grade.

Also, Insomnia at Frog doesn't seem like legit 23 to me, Barber did way harder routes than that on his visit.

I reckon Karma Sutra at Araps is likely to be the first route of its grade is Australia......not sure which grade though.

ima.seriousyoungliza

29-Mar-2016
5:23:24 PM

GRADE 19

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=87475

ima.seriousyoungliza

29-Mar-2016
5:30:28 PM

On 29/03/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>Wasn't the first 20 meant to be Soloman at Piddo? Not that it feels particularly
>stiff at the grade.

Thecrag :

'...Route History:
First Free Ascent: J.Friend
First Ascent: (J.Ewbank & A.Campbell), 1965...'

Anyone know what year Joe freed it ?...

widewetandslippery

29-Mar-2016
5:35:44 PM

26 Aslan at Euglah Rock, john allen and tobin sorenson, where does this fit date wise and did they free it?

There is an old mountain article on the hardest australian routes in a news section, odh may be right, solomon was on that list to.

ima.seriousyoungliza

29-Mar-2016
5:42:17 PM

GRADE 17 ?

On 29/03/2016 kieranl wrote:
>North-west face of Federation Peak - 1961. Maybe some NSW climbs pre-dating
>that.

Thesarvo :

'...Deep in the South West wilderness, steep and technical on all sides and composed of quality quartzite, any ascent, whether by a bushwalker or a climber, is a significant achievement. To just climb the mountain, let alone do a new route, requires food, fuel, a lot of gear, fitness and skill, good weather... and time; time to walk in and out, time for reconnaissance and time to sit out the often atrocious weather. The early explorers relied on air drops of supplies to buy themselves that time - the 1951 team had 55 food tins airlifted in to them! After air drops were banned in the early 70s, subsequent parties have had to carry everything in; trips have had to be shorter and inevitably the number of new routes has dwindle dramatically.
It was only after many years of exploration and failed attempts that the mountain was actually climbed, when a Victorian group led John Berchervaise summited in 1949, so establishing the first rock climb on the mountain, the Climbing Gully (12) from the Bechervaise Plateau. Just a couple of years later, a determined group of seven climbers from the Melbourne University Mountaineering Club based themselves on the mountain for 45 days in all, exploring the range, locating the Forest Chute and, climbing in nailed boots, adding six new climbs to the Pinnacle itself.
A decade after the initial expedition, Victorians were back, with Bob Jones, Jack O'Halloran, Geoff Shaw, and Rob Dunse climbing the magnificent North West Face route (17) in 1961...'

WWS
>>> was under the impression 17 Leiben in the bungles

Lieben 17 was done the following year...

http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/warrumbungles/route/12105751

ima.seriousyoungliza

29-Mar-2016
5:48:40 PM

On 29/03/2016 widewetandslippery wrote:
>26 Aslan at Euglah Rock, john allen and tobin sorenson,

Kim freed Procul 26 before Tobin and John came to Aus

ima.seriousyoungliza

29-Mar-2016
5:58:02 PM

On 29/03/2016 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>>20 clockwork orange...shipley,

First Ascent: K.Bell & R.Lassman, 1972

http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/shipley-lower/route/13146571

ima.seriousyoungliza

29-Mar-2016
6:07:28 PM

On 29/03/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>Also, Insomnia at Frog doesn't seem like legit 23 to me, Barber did way
>harder routes than that on his visit.
>
>I reckon Karma Sutra at Araps is likely to be the first route of its grade
>is Australia......not sure which grade though.

.............................................
tecais

May 24, 2005, 8:07 AM
Post #3 of 3 (2425 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 18, 2002
Posts: 58

Re: Hot Henry Barber's Australian Tick List

I left Australia in January 1975 just a couple of months before Mr. Barber's visit. During a 6-week spree he climbed on 29 cliffs in 21 different areas of six States doing approximately 100 routes.

His visit was most significant in the quality and style of ascents and the requested list is below. Most "free" ascents involved the elimination of one resting piece.

It should be noted a man is more than the sum of difficult ascents and although Henry's ability really impressed the locals, his abrasive and obsessive ego at the time was not universally appreciated. More of this can be glimpsed in Rob's book "The Breach".

1. QUEENSLAND
==============
(a) Frog Buttress
Insomnia 23 FA
Short Order 19 FA
Yankee go Home 22 FA
A Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles 20 FA
Conquistador 21 FFA
Child in Time 22 FFA
Sorcerer's Apprentice 19 FFA
c--k Corner 23 FFA
Satanic Majesty 21 FFA
Devil's Dihedral 20 FFA
Deliverance 23 FFA
Thor 18 FFA
The Great Big Green Pleasure Machine 20 FFA
Badfinger 21 FFA
Venom 21 FFA

(b) Mt.Maroon
Beau Brummel 20 FFA

(c) Wyberba (Girraween)
Late Afternoon Flake 18 FFA
Half Magic 21 FA

NEW SOUTH WALES
=================
(a) Mt.Piddington
The Janicepts 21 2nd FA
Graveyard Wall 22 FFA

(b) Wolgan
Flashpoint 22 FFA
The Wierding Wall 22 FFA

A.C.T.
=====
(a) Trojan Wall
Soolaimon 21 FFA

VICTORIA
========
(a) Mt. Arapiles
Reaper 20 FA
Kama Sutra 23 FFA
Red Baron 22 FFA
Kachoong 21 FFA
The Good, Bad and Ugly 20 FFA

Scorpion Super Direct Start 21 FFA
A Taste of Honey Direct Finish 23 FFA
Dramp 22 FFA
Squeek Easy 22 FFA
Pebbles 23 FFA
Thunder Crack 20 FFA

(b) Mt. Buffalo
Monarch 22 2nd FA
Cacophonic Crack 21 FFA
Black Road 22 FFA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
================
(a) Morialta
Bauat Dan 21 FFA
Bung 20 FFA
Cioch 20 FFA

(b) Moonarie
Pagoda 20 FFA
Mystery Elephant Ride 18 FFA
Outside Chance 16 FA

TASMANIA
=========
(a) Organ Pipes
Daedalus 20 FA
Icarus 19 FFA
Tartarus 21 FFA

(b) Lost World
Savage Journey 22 FA

(c) Devil's Gullet
Gullible Travels 20 FA

(d) Cole's Bay
Dog Style 18 FA
Incipience 22 FFA

(e) Lowdina
Albatross 23 FFA

...........................................

ima.seriousyoungliza

29-Mar-2016
6:13:01 PM

18 ?
33 ?
34 ?

There are 134 messages in this topic.