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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Older Blueys rings
8:12:55 AM
From Mitch Warren:-
"Glue used for the original rebolts at Shipley (as at BC, Atlantis etc) was Ramset. This is just poor workmanship. I also had to replace the rings on Martins routes at Bardens - same deal. Steve's rings at the above crags are, on the whole, still pretty good at the above crags."

Lack of brushing the holes out led to the glue failing to bond to the rock, very unusual. Be careful of these older rings.

9:10:25 AM
The bolts at Atlantis were falling out years ago. I would be worried about that crag now ?

9:13:37 AM
On 21/06/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>Be careful of these older rings.

Because there are dangerous rings out there, will this lead to retroing of retrobolts?
Heh, heh, heh.
~> Maybe people should take up trad climbing instead?

Seriously, thanks for keeping people informed.
On that topic, what are your thoughts about the welds on those bolts affecting their strength, due possible weakness at the point of leverage?
I have been told that generally a weld is stronger than the material it is in, but those ones look like they may have overheated (colour change adjacent welds), would this affect the strength of the original material for cyclic loadings?
Jim Titt
4:57:51 AM
The colour beside the welds is absolutely normal in stainless, however it is extremely poor workmanship not to remove it after the weld has cured as it promotes corrosion, the rest of the welding is shocking anyway so it matches.
7:49:49 AM
Pickling and passivating, not too hard to do yourself. Just be careful with what your using.

9:16:56 AM
On 22/06/2013 argos44 wrote:
>...SNIP... Just be careful with what your using.

Thanks for piquing my curiosity around pickling and passivating. Had a bit of a search about what it was and how it's accomplished. Interesting read and process, especially if you're going to use Hydroflouric Acid.

That stuff is no bueno;)
5:15:59 PM
Also they have very minimal threading(8 x 1.25 mm thread on an 8 mm rod I think), tho I haven't seen that cause any issues on Steve G's rings.

There are 7 messages in this topic.


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