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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Look at what you're clipping
SydneyBattler
6/05/2013
3:46:37 PM
Was on a university trip to Thompson's Point on the weekend and in a vain attempt at pushing grades jumped on a 28 in little Grease Cave. I forget the name of the climb and theCrag.com is not working for me at the moment, but it climbed through a short roof onto a short cruxy head wall.

I belayed my partner on the climb first, he got to the lip, messed around with some moves and came down. I then did the same but upon clipping the fixed biner that was on the lip I noticed that the gate's spring mechanism was broken and the gate was not closing properly.

I replaced it with a club biner and after a few attempts on the crux came down. I inspected the damaged biner and noticed that if the biner was hanging normally (with the gate's pivot on the bottom) the spring could actually catch in the hinge and spring the gate open, rather than closed. A less than ideal set up.

I must admit that I had already clipped the fixed biner and was falling on it repeatedly whilst attempting the crux moves. I only stopped to inspect the gear while I was resting. My partner did not even notice the defect.

So, take home message here seems to be, have a look at what you clip before you clip it. Don't blindly trust gear, even if you're going for that glorious and brave on sight attempt.
daave
Online Now
6/05/2013
4:12:30 PM
Pretty sure that biner is just for when you lower off, you can clip your rope into it as you come down, so it keeps you into the wall and you dont swing out. You can also get to the draws lower down more easily. Didn't your club mates tell you that...?
SydneyBattler
6/05/2013
4:27:29 PM
No one had been on the climb before so I admit that we had little assistance in that regard. The hanger was not big enough to clip another quickdraw in while that bail biner was there, so clipping the biner was the only real option without removing the gear.

Also, even if it is just a biner to clip your rope into when coming down the fact that it could spring open when closed seemed a little too sketchy IMO.

daave
Online Now
6/05/2013
4:35:10 PM
On 6/05/2013 SydneyBattler wrote:
.
>
>Also, even if it is just a biner to clip your rope into when coming down
>the fact that it could spring open when closed seemed a little too sketchy
>IMO.
>
>

It's not used to actually lower off from. You thread the anchor above, then as you take the draws off as you come down, you clip your rope into the biner so that you don't swing out. It's not taking taking your weight as the top anchor is. Even if it does open and your rope comes out, you'd be clipped to the other rope as your lower off anyway, so you wouldn't swing a dangerous amount.
SydneyBattler
6/05/2013
4:51:17 PM
The only problem was that the bolt hanger wasn't big enough to clip another draw into, so unless you removed the biner, clipped, and then replaced the biner when you lowered off, then you'd have to clip into the faulty gear.

Either way the biner has been replaced and it is still rather important to have a quick look at what you clip.
SydneyBattler
6/05/2013
8:52:33 PM
This is the biner that I took off "Baby Just Don't Bite It" (28) in the Little Grease Cave at Thompsons Point in Nowra. I thought it was cause for concern, so I just thought I'd post it to show people what I meant.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKvn91XvqS4&feature=youtu.be

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7/05/2013
4:45:40 PM
On 6/05/2013 SydneyBattler wrote:
>The only problem was that the bolt hanger wasn't big enough to clip another
>draw into, so unless you removed the biner, clipped, and then replaced
>the biner when you lowered off, then you'd have to clip into the faulty
>gear.
>
>Either way the biner has been replaced and it is still rather important
>to have a quick look at what you clip.

Fixed and/or convenience-gear is often reject/suspect stuff, and deserves appropriate caution if a subsequent party decides to use it.
This 'trap' seems insideous in that you bailed from a point where a crappy convenience piece was left and I doubt the leaver of that gear anticipated someone maybe bailing off it in the future.

There are 7 messages in this topic.

 

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