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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 110
Author
Sport climbers - why don't you climb trad?

nmonteith
27/01/2013
5:53:02 PM
I thought Freycinet in Tassie was a great place for easy trad as well - Lassies Wall & Whitewater Wall had super fun easier routes. Obviously the Grampians has excellent easy trad routes - including multipitch adventures. Summerday Valley and Grey & Green Walls are the pick, but there are many others.
tor.lattimore
27/01/2013
5:59:28 PM
>Really, still no climbing? Didn't you have your's done before mine? I've
>been doing easy climbs since October and mine's going great. If I hadn't
>been stupidly ill for the last 6 weeks, i'd be climbing moderately hard
>again, but even so, no dramas with 15s. But I do live in one of the best
>places in the world for gentle climbing rehab.

Yeah, was done in May. Doctor predicted I'd be climbing early Feb, but looks like maybe a bit more than that. I'm only going a little insane... Are you totally pain free now?

I haven't been to Mt Boyce, looks pretty good.

vwills
27/01/2013
6:05:03 PM
Theres quite a bit of easy trad out there if you look. Learning to climb was all about learning to lead trad for me so I cant answer your question, but was fortunate to inherit some gear from self professed sports climber who wasnt interested in his rack any more which helped me get started. Though I had means to buy a rack I didnt have much of an idea (hence my assortment of HB quadcams that you love Neilo:)

Piddo, Narrowneck, Mt York, Zig zag, Cosmic spring to mind. I also recall visiting Barrenjoy and Jolls bridge in my first year of climbing and doing trad. Point Perp has great easy trad. Despite its reputation Monkey Face in the Watagans is also good for easy trad. Port Stephens also has heaps of easy trad, though usually not in a guide, and not that long. Its there if you want it in NSW - definitely not the organ pipes, Araps or Frog though.
drdeviousii
27/01/2013
6:08:19 PM
@ sbm... I've met climbers who don't trust bomber pre-placed trad gear on bomber Grampians gold....

there must be is some analogy here surely? Maybe Tor.whatEVA doesn't realise there is a world outside of Sydney Basin sandstone?

Eduardo Slabofvic
27/01/2013
6:55:48 PM
On 27/01/2013 ratherbeclimbinv9 wrote:
>It's all to do with the work (mental and physical) involved, let's be honest.
> And so what?
>
>Trad climbing is like a home cooked Christmas lunch. Sport climbing is
>like eating McDonalds. Bouldering's like having a chip sandwich.
>
>Trying to equate one or the other with being a better person is a pretty
>big stretch in my view Macciza ;)

Because sport is so much scarier than trad
maadness
27/01/2013
7:26:46 PM
Sport for me as i've added to many kilos to carry the extra weight.

Miguel75
27/01/2013
8:58:25 PM
I have an acquaintance who's been climbing a few months now and loves it. He only climbs in a gym and has so far resisted all my wiles in trying to get him outside. His first excuse was he wanted to get his lead pass (indoors) and then be good enough to climb the classics outdoors...

I fear he too will only love bolts...
Wendy
27/01/2013
9:58:34 PM
On 27/01/2013 tor.lattimore wrote:
>>Really, still no climbing? Didn't you have your's done before mine? I've
>>been doing easy climbs since October and mine's going great. If I hadn't
>>been stupidly ill for the last 6 weeks, i'd be climbing moderately hard
>>again, but even so, no dramas with 15s. But I do live in one of the best
>>places in the world for gentle climbing rehab.
>
>Yeah, was done in May. Doctor predicted I'd be climbing early Feb, but
>looks like maybe a bit more than that. I'm only going a little insane...
>Are you totally pain free now?

Yep. I still have a tiny lack of range left, and it does hurt a bit to stretch it still, but it doesn't bother me on daily stuff or climbing. I was going completely insane and being able to climb even though it was piss easy stuff mad a massive difference. Your's still hurts? That's crap. My physio's instructions are to keep stretching, go climbing and work up to full push ups. Now I'm going insane from being sick, but that looks like it's going to be over soon too, still it's put even those very simple remaining rehab instructions behind schedule. Heading to Tassie next week only climbing 15s. I'll be hunting out all the easy trad around for the first week or so.
>
>I haven't been to Mt Boyce, looks pretty good.
Wendy
27/01/2013
10:00:36 PM
On 27/01/2013 drdeviousii wrote:
>@ sbm... I've met climbers who don't trust bomber pre-placed trad gear
>on bomber Grampians gold....
>
>there must be is some analogy here surely? Maybe Tor.whatEVA doesn't realise
>there is a world outside of Sydney Basin sandstone?

I tried to stir up controversy whilst sick and bored the other week with a post about this stuff .... I reckon it's because people learn in more and more sanitary conditions and their standards, expectations, beliefs etc etc reflect that.
One Day Hero
27/01/2013
11:11:23 PM
On 27/01/2013 nmonteith wrote:

>As you said I think convenience and limited time is the main reason I sport
>climb when at home.

That's funny Neil, when I asked you about this a while back your response was "None of the wusses I climb with (apart from Mikl) are the least bit interested in placing gear. I try to sell them a trad day every now and then, but it's like offering garlic to a bunch of vampires" :)

nmonteith
27/01/2013
11:27:18 PM
Thank god for Mikl, Vanessa and Rich. Actually there is quite a keen bunch of keen young (ish) tradsters I've recently met in the Bluies who do spark some hope.
stugang
27/01/2013
11:44:38 PM
Cant see what the controversy is about. I thought it was pretty obvious....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgPU5ECL_GI

Groveller
28/01/2013
7:31:06 AM
Cute rabbit
mikllaw
28/01/2013
8:26:13 AM
I think in the Blueys, they come out of gyms already climbing 22+ and there's not a lot of 'gym style" (non-crack) climbs at that grade that are trad. (and i don't think that something with 6 carrots and 2 cams is a trad climb)

In Victoria there is lot of good climbing that isn't cracks AND you can protect it.

That said, I wouldn't know:- I can't climb trad without dropping 6 grades and perhaps more kilos.

arniearms
28/01/2013
9:00:54 AM
What's Trad?

arniearms
28/01/2013
9:02:29 AM
Shud up arnie. its traditional ethics and stuff.
mikllaw
28/01/2013
10:27:02 AM
gym is to sport
as sport is to trad
as trad is to mountaineering

bouldering is a bit unclassifiable
egosan
28/01/2013
2:35:02 PM
On 28/01/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>gym is to sport
>as sport is to trad
>as trad is to mountaineering
>
>bouldering is a bit unclassifiable

Where do the aid fetishists fit in your hierarchy?
One Day Hero
28/01/2013
2:48:50 PM
On 28/01/2013 egosan wrote:
>
>Where do the aid fetishists fit in your hierarchy?

I thought we were talking about rock climbing?
wogdog
28/01/2013
3:42:34 PM
Climbing sport tends to overinflate your ego so returning to trad after years of sport generally means you need to significantly drop your grades or do the odd crack climb, which tends to crap on your ego a little and bring you back down to earth. At least thats been my experience.

 Page 2 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 110
There are 110 messages in this topic.

 

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