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Sport grades 'higher' than trad?


muki

19-Jul-2012
12:13:35 PM

On 19/07/2012 uwhp510 wrote:
>Old school trad routes that people say are stiff, are in fact spot on,
>because they came first meaning that they set the benchmarks. The modern,
>moderate sport routes that most people seem to spend most of their time
>climbing these days, that are easier at the grade are therefore soft.

spot on

>If for whatever reason, you aspire to being able to climb grade X, then
>go seek out the proudest test pieces, not the grotty, sh1tty little boulder
>problems off the ground with easy climbing above type routes...

agree also with this, benchmark is as it says it is.

>Also, don't get on Orrestes and then say you can climb 24 on gear (I'd
>give it 19... maybe 21 if I was feeling generous ;)

same with Karma Sutra way easier than 24 if you can jamb.

simone

19-Jul-2012
12:31:20 PM

On 5/11/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>Is a route that is 10 or more pitches of about 40m to 50m each, with each
>pitch having 2 maybe 3 bolts, a sport route?

It can be.

>Yeah that can be scary.

Not for Alex Honnold or Tom Caldwell.

>having your last piece of gear never lower than your feet is not scary.

Unless it is an RP and we are talking bout Wendy leading it!


muki

19-Jul-2012
12:51:38 PM

infact quite a few easy 24s at the mount, Die Loaded and Life in the Fast Lane, both fairly tame in terms of difficulty, but run outs a little sketchy on Fast Lane, also Common Knowledge is a one move wonder getting past the roof, lots of fun but not in the same league as Horror Scope, or Paladin.

Wighty

21-Jul-2012
11:53:51 PM

What about Serpentine? This was originally graded 31 for placing gear yes? Down graded to 29 for pre-placed gear?.

Wouldn't that be an example of grading a climb differently? I wouldn't have thought it was downgraded as from my experience HB doesn't hand out grades very casually.

simey

22-Jul-2012
1:33:33 AM

On 21/07/2012 Wighty wrote:
>What about Serpentine? This was originally graded 31 for placing gear yes?
>Down graded to 29 for pre-placed gear?.

Not that I have done it, but it sounds very much like Malcolm simply got the grade wrong with Serpentine. It had nothing to do with placing gear, it was because he struggled with the crux move which didn't suit his chubby little fingers. No other climb in Australia gets a different grade for placing gear.

Malcolm's ascent was hardly a perfect gear send anyway. He had still rap-inspected the pitch and ended up yo-yoing the route on his actual ascent.


sliamese

22-Jul-2012
9:16:50 PM

Ahhh serpentine.... Like simey said, he found the 'fat finger crux' hard because of his chubby digits. Like all routes its a lot harder to place gear than to clip pre-placed gear. I reckon it takes a grade off for preplaced gear.

The next question is why do hard routes get downgraded. New beta is revealed and voila, its 31 not 32... Even tho often the sequence they used was the grade they said!!

Wendy

23-Jul-2012
10:34:54 AM

I think this has become a thread of sandbags.

gfdonc

23-Jul-2012
10:39:59 AM

I sometimes wondered what the collective noun for that was.

One Day Hero

23-Jul-2012
11:04:01 AM

On 23/07/2012 Wendy wrote:
>I think this has become a thread of sandbags.

I can't imagine what you might be referring to.


Gavo

23-Jul-2012
11:39:41 AM

On 23/07/2012 Wendy wrote:
>I think this has become a thread of sandbags.

Lucky you said that Wendy... You might have come across a terrified boulderer stuck on one of those climbs in the near future


muki

24-Jul-2012
11:10:56 PM

On 23/07/2012 gfdonc wrote:
>I sometimes wondered what the collective noun for that was.

A flood of sandbags

ARidgley

25-Jul-2012
2:18:04 PM

On 23/07/2012 gfdonc wrote:
>I sometimes wondered what the collective noun for that was.
>
A puckering of sandbags?

dave1962

25-Jul-2012
3:36:15 PM

a levee of sandbags

There are 53 messages in this topic.