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The greatest unfinished problems in Victoria

Dave J

10-Feb-2007
3:11:43 PM

On 9/02/2007 boardlord wrote:
>Left of the Gallery - as you pass underneath Mr Meat etc and head round
>the corner. It's probably 45 degs base to top. You know the one. There's
>a line (maybe 2) on it. Hard start to a good flake system, then hard finish.
>Ultra exposed.

yes these are good ones....and further left again...how about the stonking line up the midle of rain wall,
just left of mr Fantastic....maybe 50 meters of gentle overhang on those classic gallery quarzt dyke
crimps.

and back at stapylton...the "agent of Cool" I spent a bunch of days on this and never managed to do it
in less than 3 sections ... All natural gear 32 or 3 (ish) in the shade all year round

and plenty of lines still to be done on tiapan besides (I think someone mentioned these already)

back over at arapiles up in the bluff is the inquisition...I think it might be arapiles last aid route (which
is as good a reason as any to go and do it properly). Cyberpunk will go at some point I think,the line
immediately left of india is worthwhile (the one to the left of that again is perhaps a bit futuristic
though)

...why do people bother with link-ups?

Nottobetaken

10-Feb-2007
8:19:40 PM

I think there's a lot of potential on Eureka Wall as well, and there's a fantastic line (or three) up on Mt Difficult. Yes - link ups are pointless when you see these sort of things.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

10-Feb-2007
8:47:16 PM

>at arapiles up in the bluff is the inquisition...>I think it might be arapiles last aid route (which is as good a reason as any to go and do it properly).

If there are then no aid routes at Araps, then this becomes as good a reason as any to go and put another one up there!
Heh, heh, heh.


muki

10-Feb-2007
9:11:54 PM

Lots of potential for new aid routes at Araps M9, Armagedon roofs! Is just one I can think of right away.


andyR

11-Feb-2007
7:15:39 PM

Carthedral Pinnacle at Buffalo, there's a huge roof above the first belay ledge of Sultan which may go ... even better, it may go into the awesome arete which heads to the summit of Cathedral Pinnacle...anyone else spotted this line?

gfdonc

12-Feb-2007
5:07:45 PM

There's a fabulous but as yet unbrushed line at Ben Cairn awaiting .. ;-)


shiltz

12-Feb-2007
5:37:05 PM

There is an alternative challenge at Ben Cairn that we explored on Saturday afternoon. Climb the existing routes in the wet!


IdratherbeclimbingM9

15-Mar-2007
4:56:00 PM

On 11/02/2007 andyR wrote:
>Carthedral Pinnacle at Buffalo, there's a huge roof above the first belay
>ledge of Sultan which may go ... even better, it may go into the awesome
>arete which heads to the summit of Cathedral Pinnacle...anyone else spotted
>this line?

I abseil checked out this arete and visually inspected the roof from underneath back in about yr 2000 for aid possibilities.
I doubt it will go cleanly and would not advocate spoiling such a line by using a hammer.
If it goes at all it would be at least M12 (nothing close to that grade in Aust. yet), and probably 'R' or 'X' additional comments in climb description for 'death potential'.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

15-Mar-2007
4:57:32 PM

On 12/02/2007 gfdonc wrote:
>There's a fabulous but as yet unbrushed line at Ben Cairn awaiting ..
> ;-)
LOL
Like the humour (given discussion on other threads about brushing lines) gfdonc!


andyR

15-Mar-2007
7:02:44 PM

hey, I never said it would be easy...lol

bl@ke

28-Dec-2009
4:04:06 PM

Ah bump??

A few months ago i saw a nati local? who was at Dec crag with "squib" and Justin someone i think. "Squib" had big arse length dreds. Anyway one of those people was working an old project just to the left of All decked out 27. Does anyone know of this project? it looked pretty nails...

Dave C

28-Dec-2009
4:31:55 PM

There was once an old aid bolt ladder up thewall between Steps Ahead & Hit the Deck but it was chopped back in the 80s after some holds were chipped or something like that (too long ago to remember the details.) A couple of well-known early 80s residents in the Pines actually started a rumour that it had been done and even chalked up some holds - the name Powderpuff was floating around IIRC (get it?)

bl@ke

28-Dec-2009
7:34:38 PM

Some holds were chipped? that wall is a sea of chips :) This line this bloke was working looked pretty natural.
Also is this "Cyberpunk" project sounds hardcore and looks it! Is it bolted or is it just been labled a project and not bolted. i dont remember seeing any when i checked out Punks.

Dave C

29-Dec-2009
9:22:52 AM

There was a lot of damage done when the bolts were chopped, sounds like someone is trying to climb a line to the right. Nice concept!

kieranl

29-Dec-2009
12:02:21 PM

I thought the chopped line on Dec crac line had been largely obscured by the tree regrowth. Actually the line wasn't completely chipped : there was also a prominent loose flake that broke off and then got concreted back on.

simey

29-Dec-2009
2:52:26 PM

I think there is a bit of confusion going on here. The route originally being asked about is the old Sam Blainey project left of Gordy's more recent route "All Decked Out"... none of which are particularly inspiring in my opinion.

The route it is being confused with in this discussion is the wall between Steps Ahead and Hit the Deck which later got chopped for being chipped.


Paulie

29-Dec-2009
3:04:46 PM

On 15/03/2007 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 11/02/2007 andyR wrote:
>>Carthedral Pinnacle at Buffalo, there's a huge roof above the first belay
>>ledge of Sultan which may go ... even better, it may go into the awesome
>>arete which heads to the summit of Cathedral Pinnacle...anyone else spotted
>>this line?
>
>I abseil checked out this arete and visually inspected the roof from underneath
>back in about yr 2000 for aid possibilities..

Yeah, we checked a couple of potential lines off the top of the Cathedral block including a LHV from the start of the 3rd pitch of Sultan up the featured slab (a tad contrived - why climb a slab when you have the last pitch of Sultan in front of you!); an ascent of the abseil wall (did some of the moves on TR but linking anything was well beyond my abilities); and the aforementioned arete which would definately go but also be a tad contrived (have to climb something then abseil into it...not worth it IMO).

I think every climber worth his/her salt has looked at that roof line from the end of the 1st pitch of Sultan and "mind climbed" it...some of us have even attempted the line with a bottom belay and jumar on a fixed line :)


davetheyounger

29-Dec-2009
6:50:20 PM

Thinking past araps gramps buffalo there is an amazing looking crack at Pulpit rock near Seymour that would be something and also a few aid routes at Rolling Stone Wall that are worth a look

Dave C

30-Dec-2009
6:06:38 PM

On 29/12/2009 simey wrote:

>The route it is being confused with in this discussion is the wall between
>Steps Ahead and Hit the Deck which later got chopped for being chipped.

My fault that. Last time I was at Dec. Crag was 20-odd years ago now so not familiar with more recent stuff.

Dave C

30-Dec-2009
6:23:21 PM

On 24/03/2003 phil_nev wrote:
>How bout the aid route in the youies Orpheous and the underworld.... Attempted by kimbo and almost freed till a hold broke off.... Dont know if its at all possible but it is definitly unfinished.....

While Kim did finally break the crucial hold on his favoured sequence, he did also try a different sequence but was not quite strong/lanky enough to make it work. As Dalai said 6 years ago, those efforts were to the left of the original aid line, I reckon some of the strong bouldering freaks around now would be quite capable of finishing either Kim's version or possibly even the old aid line.
There are less than a handful of other possibly worthwhile things to look at in the Youies area (and I emphasise the word POSSIBLY!)
A direct finish to Kim's 'Broken Dreams' is probably the best thing left in the area. Instead of traversing left into the hideous fist crack of Orpheus, pull over the little roof and head up & left to finish on the very prow of the buttress,
Out on the NW Outcrops, the big slab/wall in between Virgo & Talmud will definitely go with a few bolts. You could start up Virgo or there is a possible independent start up a little seam.
Out west at Granite Road there are a couple of prospects either side of the boulder-choked gully on the roadside face. The steep wall on the left has some worrying looking flakes but I roped down and had a look many years ago and they're pretty solid. To the right there is a vague hanging arete with plenty of rather sharp looking holds after what I suspect would be a bouldery start. Of course, access might be the problem out at Granite Road, particularly as wielding a power drill would probably attract some attention!

Oh, nearly forgot, there's a bolted thing left of Drugs Over London on the Overlap Wall. Sharp, fingery and the finish really may be a bit too blank but what the hell!

There are 40 messages in this topic.