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Bolting in the Warrumbungles

climberman

17-May-2011
5:45:36 PM

There's a single carrot above the gully on Belougery (well there was just before Easter this year). We used it as a runner to get to the rap station on the descent. The low rap station does seem like a great place to trip and fcuck up all the way off the spire.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

17-May-2011
9:01:23 PM

On 17/05/2011 kuu wrote:
>On 16/05/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>> (snip)
>>Kuu (on this site), put up a Gd 8 variant around the difficulty of the
>>crux (Gd 14), on that route in 1962 also, so what is it with this next
>>generation being pandered too?
>
>Just for clarification - Trevor W and I conceived and climbed the route
>(bottom to top) one Easter, prior to the ascent by Ted Batty and Bryden
>Allen. Trev and I were intimidated by the crux and found a way round it
>by traversing out left onto the North Face then came back onto the rib
>which was followed all the way to the top.
>
>Subsequently (it may have been the following Easter?) Ted and Bryden climbed
>the route direct. The new climbing they contributed was the crux pitch
>which was a praiseworthy addition to the route and ensured it became the
>enjoyable (and committing?) outing it is today.

Thanks for the clarification kuu.
I was going by old memory and an early guide, that lists both ascents; simply dated as 1962 for each.

Hmm. It makes me now wonder why BA/TB ascent wasn't named something along the lines of 'Cornerstone Rib Direct'?


kuu

18-May-2011
8:17:12 AM

On 17/05/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>Hmm. It makes me now wonder why BA/TB ascent wasn't named something along
>the lines of 'Cornerstone Rib Direct'?

Ted and Bryden may well have used that name (but after 50 years my memory is a little cloudy) and often it's what comes into common usage that prevails. In any case, the simpler "Cornerstone Rib" is a fitting label for the line.


Superstu

18-May-2011
9:42:59 AM

Yep the Batty/Bryden variant was written up as Cornerstone Rib Direct but as its now the standard way to do the route the name has been changed in subsequent guidebooks.

When I first climbed it a few years back I didn't have much of a route description with me, and unaware of the sneaky step left around the steepening, drifted off right and up at a considerable grade harder. I'm sure I wasn't the first to do this variant and as the rock quality was abysmal I don't recommend it to anybody. A few years later I did it again, this time on route, as I had blood stains from jrc's head injury to show the way.

Robin

18-May-2011
6:53:17 PM

On 16/05/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>
>Can't you just traverse across down lower? The rap down bit seems a bit
>odd. When we did the route we totally stuffed up the start and climbed
>two very direct pitches straight up to the belay where that rap puts you.
>About grade 20?

Giday Neil. Many moons ago in my former life as a climber I did FOTP. We didn't read the guidebook properly before setting off & assumed it was a climb from the top of pitch 2. My leader at the time actually down climbed on top rope. He couldn't find any gear & I stuipidly said don't worry I'll be right. It was a nervous 'pitch' to second with the rope looping down many meters and with back pack & suspect rock I was not a happy camper. From memory the climbing was not hard & got easier with every meter decended.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

18-May-2011
9:40:16 PM

An interesting comment by GoUp! on the Seen Anything Scary Today thread.

king335

31-May-2011
7:57:51 PM

i'd just like to inform all you lovely folk that those hideous steel monstrosities that appeared on cornerstone rib direct have since been removed.
also i'd like to confirm that there are bolts at the first belay of Lieben. unfortunatley these rather unpleasant beasts still remain. The removal of these rather grotesque fixtures will be carried out sometime over the next two months.

please note:
Any additional bolts added to existing climbs will be removed (Adding is somewhat different to replacing)
Also it is considered bad ethic to rap bolt a new climb in the bungles. (yes there is still a small group of people who regulary climb in the bungles and are putting up new routes, ground up on gear)
If you wish to bolt a new line, grow some balls and do it on lead.
The reason for this is to reduce the likelihood that over bolting will occur. Over bolted routes may end up having bolts removed depending on what gear is available and the run out taken. (bolts place near natural protection or closer then 5m apart will likley be considered overbolted unless a ground fall or factor 2 is likley)
pitons are considered the lesser of two evils. if you place a pin leave it behind as removal will damage the rock and others will likely not be climbing with a rack of pins and a hammer..
If you dont like this, stay in the blue mountains and stop wasting your and my time.


rodw

31-May-2011
8:19:28 PM

Lol...a bungles bolt war this should be good, ill just grab some popcorn......can we see a picture of your handy work in the bolt removal to ensure that no extra damage was done?.

ithomas

31-May-2011
9:26:44 PM

I almost agree with you Andrew King, but the fact that you sound like a tosser is starting to make me change my mind.

citationx

31-May-2011
9:39:53 PM

with an alias like king335 and his post, it's like he's a younger, more arrogant version of Gerry N.
You two are not related, are you?


nmonteith

31-May-2011
10:14:42 PM

Ha! You're funny. I hope when you chop you chop on lead. We can't have any pesky rap choppers in the park.

Paz

31-May-2011
11:07:53 PM

On 31/05/2011 ithomas wrote:
>I almost agree with you Andrew King, but the fact that you sound like a
>tosser is starting to make me change my mind.

Why would someones internet persona influence your choice of ethics? You either agree with something or don't. Unless you just go along with what the cool cats like davidn agree with....whatwasthat?


sbm

31-May-2011
11:25:22 PM

On 31/05/2011 rodw wrote:
>Lol...a bungles bolt war this should be good, ill just grab some popcorn......can
>we see a picture of your handy work in the bolt removal to ensure that
>no extra damage was done?.

Yeah, the only thing uglier than fixed hangers is rusty chopped studs.

ithomas

31-May-2011
11:55:49 PM

Dear Paz
What do you think are the odds of my communicating with not one but two humourless tossers in the one night ? Pretty high it seems.

uwhp510

1-Jun-2011
12:11:25 AM

On 31/05/2011 sbm wrote:
>Yeah, the only thing uglier than fixed hangers is rusty chopped studs.

I quite like the rusty chopped studs. They're sort of like little warning signs that say "don't waste your drill bits round here sucka".


tnd

1-Jun-2011
8:53:30 AM

Now we've got three humourless tossers.

maxdacat

1-Jun-2011
9:02:39 AM

that would make a real purty wig.

widewetandslippery

1-Jun-2011
9:33:02 AM

My 2 cents.

Sling farms beget sling farms and thats a begetting I think nobody likes. I've abseiled from the p2 anchor on CR after coming off Lieben and down the gully of rib and gully (which i've never climbed but actually looks quite good). I left gear as I didn't have a guide book or torch. The amount of tat removed indicates to me a more polite fixed anchor in this instance was totally warranted. I do not feel I am dumbing down the bungles experience by agreeing to this but merely accepting the unfortunate truth that climbing there is not the unfettered pioneering experience it feels it should be.

king335 you sound like a wanker.

There are some memorable carrots in the bungles such as the drooper at the end of the ginsberg traverse. They will be missed but if your going to put a permanent anchor in it should be good. The drooper was probably cutting edge hardware when it went in.

egosan

1-Jun-2011
10:12:57 AM

Whether or not king335 is a wanker is beside the point.

The debate over bolting will never be resolved here on chockstone. Consensus my ass. The decisions about bolting are made by the people with the will to bolt and the will to chop.

So good on him for have the will to go do something he believes in.


rodw

1-Jun-2011
10:19:59 AM

I just want to see the pictures of before and after to see what looks more unsightly....chop all he likes....I dont give a shit TBH ...I just like to see his handy work to ensure, since hes doing us and the world a favour (or so it seems he thinks anyway) to make sure hes doing it right and not leaving an even bigger mess....the picture can include him in it since hes so proud of his stance he won't mind being very public about who it is.

There are 168 messages in this topic.